Post 142, photos of your wedge.
First, nice build.
I bought a new TW-6 Dec. 23, 2014.
Within two weeks I had a shop modify the slip on four-way wedge.
The stock wedge will run you ragged in a couple hours time.
With the modification I split off the bottom 4"-5" of large rounds.
Next resplit those, if needed, while the two big pieces remain on top of the "shelf wedge".
I had to raise the wedge with the hydraulic lift an inch or so to loosen the lower pieces to re-split the bottom pieces.
The top pieces stay on top of the wedge, out of the way but within reach, until done.
Now pull the closest top split to the log lift, and the other to the beam.
It is all very similar to the now common box wedge some six years later.
The standard TW-6 four-way is a very common design, often copied.
The standard wedge design drops wood to the ground on both sides of the splitter and behind the wedge, all of which makes much, much, more work than necessary, moving, dragging, lifting the pieces, multiple times, to re-split.
In short, the standard TW-6 wedge is an idiotic, stupid designed (probably by an engineer that never used a wood splitter) similar to most manufacturers in the delta swept back, or forward, style.
Just saying, and passing on what I wrestled with on a brand new 10k plus splitter a few years back. It's gone...to a new home somewhere in Illinois.
If your doing boiler wood I guess that works, but for wood stoves and fireplaces very poor design for smaller splits.
Pretty, but not operator friendly. Log lift is in way to comfortably operate on that side. Barely enough room to do so. Tight, pinch point if not careful with snowy, slippery wood.
Above: Splits fall to both sides on the ground. Ugh! Especially if it's a hundred pound chunk on the side opposite the log lift.
Below: Pulp hook used to drag, not lift, pieces to log lift or beam.
First, nice build.
I bought a new TW-6 Dec. 23, 2014.
Within two weeks I had a shop modify the slip on four-way wedge.
The stock wedge will run you ragged in a couple hours time.
With the modification I split off the bottom 4"-5" of large rounds.
Next resplit those, if needed, while the two big pieces remain on top of the "shelf wedge".
I had to raise the wedge with the hydraulic lift an inch or so to loosen the lower pieces to re-split the bottom pieces.
The top pieces stay on top of the wedge, out of the way but within reach, until done.
Now pull the closest top split to the log lift, and the other to the beam.
It is all very similar to the now common box wedge some six years later.
The standard TW-6 four-way is a very common design, often copied.
The standard wedge design drops wood to the ground on both sides of the splitter and behind the wedge, all of which makes much, much, more work than necessary, moving, dragging, lifting the pieces, multiple times, to re-split.
In short, the standard TW-6 wedge is an idiotic, stupid designed (probably by an engineer that never used a wood splitter) similar to most manufacturers in the delta swept back, or forward, style.
Just saying, and passing on what I wrestled with on a brand new 10k plus splitter a few years back. It's gone...to a new home somewhere in Illinois.
If your doing boiler wood I guess that works, but for wood stoves and fireplaces very poor design for smaller splits.
Pretty, but not operator friendly. Log lift is in way to comfortably operate on that side. Barely enough room to do so. Tight, pinch point if not careful with snowy, slippery wood.
Above: Splits fall to both sides on the ground. Ugh! Especially if it's a hundred pound chunk on the side opposite the log lift.
Below: Pulp hook used to drag, not lift, pieces to log lift or beam.
