headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
still think It'd be ok with 8-9 rows deep of wood piled 8' high? IDK if a few windows and roof vents woulkd dry that much wood packed/ stacked together????
Firewood drying/ transport ? an attempt at efficiency
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BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
Well after much brainstorming, several discussions with the wife and chats with AS members I've concluded:
1. No matter what, it won't be cheap (< $500)
2. Best compromise for me (palletizing AND covering) is stacking the wood on pallets under a roof only structure.
Structure should run North to South (wood "ends" face East/ West) and be just wide enough to keep rain off AND maximize sunlight.
Roof height TBD. You want to maximize sunlight, but also keep rain off (ie: you don't want a 12' tall roof for a 4' tall stack of wood- exagerrated but you get the point)
Roofing each individual pallet (such that it's easy on the eyes) would be slick but expensive and incredibly time consuming.
I'm playing with the idea of a custom made frame; 4' wide x 12' long x ?' tall....on wheels. This way I could wheel it right into the woodshed with the tractor (12' long matches the woodshed)...just in the idea stage at this point.
Space is somewhat limited on our property (flat space that is). Want a 30ish x 50ish barn next year too so trying to think of that too.
Just wanted to update ya'll.
1. No matter what, it won't be cheap (< $500)
2. Best compromise for me (palletizing AND covering) is stacking the wood on pallets under a roof only structure.
Structure should run North to South (wood "ends" face East/ West) and be just wide enough to keep rain off AND maximize sunlight.
Roof height TBD. You want to maximize sunlight, but also keep rain off (ie: you don't want a 12' tall roof for a 4' tall stack of wood- exagerrated but you get the point)
Roofing each individual pallet (such that it's easy on the eyes) would be slick but expensive and incredibly time consuming.
I'm playing with the idea of a custom made frame; 4' wide x 12' long x ?' tall....on wheels. This way I could wheel it right into the woodshed with the tractor (12' long matches the woodshed)...just in the idea stage at this point.
Space is somewhat limited on our property (flat space that is). Want a 30ish x 50ish barn next year too so trying to think of that too.
Just wanted to update ya'll.
If you are going to build a barn, add a lean-to type structure to one side of it. If you are concerned about looks, add some lattice to it to hide the wood and allow air to flow through. Obviously the lattice may get beat up over time, but it is cheap enough and easy enough to replace.
Would cutting 10" off the bottom of the sidewalls and adding a roof vent help at all ?
This spring i'm thinking of throwing up a 24x24 trussed building, but i'm not sure about siding it or just using it as a rain block. If i side it, i was thinking the above idea would create a vacuum drawing cool ambient air up around the wood stacks and mixing with hot humid air being pushed out the center roof vent. I would use black shingles to draw as much solar heat as possible. Am i close here or way off base ? Would galvanized roofing tin do anything to help this without black shingles ?
Thanks for help
Hoping the OP can benefit from the added discussion.
BTW nice setup for the OP.
This spring i'm thinking of throwing up a 24x24 trussed building, but i'm not sure about siding it or just using it as a rain block. If i side it, i was thinking the above idea would create a vacuum drawing cool ambient air up around the wood stacks and mixing with hot humid air being pushed out the center roof vent. I would use black shingles to draw as much solar heat as possible. Am i close here or way off base ? Would galvanized roofing tin do anything to help this without black shingles ?
Thanks for help
Hoping the OP can benefit from the added discussion.
BTW nice setup for the OP.
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
You're assuming you'd have heat on teh roof in that scenario. On cloudy days, that would be diminished I would think. I don't think you're way off base with teh vacumm effect.
With a 24x24 though, man it'd be a shame to only have a shelter house. On the opther hand, if you leave the siding 10" off the ground, critters will love ya
and I'd venture to bet you'll be covering that 10" in a few years to keep them out. my 2 cents anyways.I thought about that vacumm effect....you need heat differential to have a vacumm. The amount of heat (ie: amount of differential) would be dependent on the weather. IDK - I'll ponder that one some more tonight
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
yeah I'm thinking of just palletizing this year - let em sit out and chance it, then next year do the lean-to bit on the barn. The best plans don't always pan out though
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Northern Tool has wood pile tarps in long, narrow sizes. They work well enough for the price. I'm going on my third year with a set, and I think they are about done.
Planning on woodshed to replace them, though, if I can scrounge enough 4x8 pallets....
If I don't get the woodshed built, I may go with the billboard vinyl. Some folks on here say it's very tough.
You're assuming you'd have heat on teh roof in that scenario. On cloudy days, that would be diminished I would think. I don't think you're way off base with teh vacumm effect.
With a 24x24 though, man it'd be a shame to only have a shelter house. On the opther hand, if you leave the siding 10" off the ground, critters will love ya
I thought about that vacumm effect....you need heat differential to have a vacumm. The amount of heat (ie: amount of differential) would be dependent on the weather. IDK - I'll ponder that one some more tonight
I agree cloudy day's wouldn't benefit wood drying at all. On the other hand if in fact a vacuum could be set up with the proper heat differential cloudy day's wouldn't matter much at all.
Critters would not be a bother at all with steel expanded metal cut and screwed into place.
With it being a 24x24 i would have room for my splitter and other things. Might have to scrounge up some solar panels and fork lift batteries to build my own half arsed kiln.
Another idea - Would it be beneficial to install sky light panels ?
redprospector
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've been drying lumber & firewood for a long time, here's my take on it.
Rule #1 Keep the rain & snow off it as much as possible.
Rule #2 Heat, and air flow dry wood (mostly air flow).
Rule #3 Once the wood is stacked, I don't mind a rabbit running through the stack.
But I don't want the dog to be able to follow it. In other words don't stack the wood too tight, but tight enough that you don't loose too much storage space.
To maximize heat you could use fiberglass, or plastic corrigated roofing (like on hot houses). But you'd have to replace the roof every few years.
On overcast day's the wood will still dry if there is still air flow, although slower. If you wanted to go so far, you could put some fans in to draw air through the shed (not blow air in, but pull it through).
Andy
Rule #1 Keep the rain & snow off it as much as possible.
Rule #2 Heat, and air flow dry wood (mostly air flow).
Rule #3 Once the wood is stacked, I don't mind a rabbit running through the stack.
But I don't want the dog to be able to follow it. In other words don't stack the wood too tight, but tight enough that you don't loose too much storage space.
To maximize heat you could use fiberglass, or plastic corrigated roofing (like on hot houses). But you'd have to replace the roof every few years.
On overcast day's the wood will still dry if there is still air flow, although slower. If you wanted to go so far, you could put some fans in to draw air through the shed (not blow air in, but pull it through).
Andy
Northern Tool has wood pile tarps in long, narrow sizes. They work well enough for the price. I'm going on my third year with a set, and I think they are about done.
Planning on woodshed to replace them, though, if I can scrounge enough 4x8 pallets....
If I don't get the woodshed built, I may go with the billboard vinyl. Some folks on here say it's very tough.
Billboard vinyl is very tough and it can gotten for free, if you can get it from the billboard people.
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bingo. That's what I'm planning for my woodshed. Why throw away free heat for your wood?
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
Reading your post it clicked.....I don't know what I need! How can you know what to do if you don't know what you need?
What I mean is if you are correct by "Rule #2 Heat, and air flow dry wood (mostly air flow).".....then as long as you're covered you're ok.
maplemeister
ArboristSite Operative
Headleyj,
Lots of good ideas to think about so far. We all have different situations so I will tell you what works for me and maybe there is something in here for you to use as well. I had a 24x32 foot Gambrel roof garage type building that I had put up for vehicles and storage. ON one end, the 24' dimension, I added a shed roof type extension with post supports, and left the two ends and the front open other than upright posts that support the roof as well as the ends of my rows when stacked in the shed. I did not pour a floor to save money but use pallets to stack the wood on instead. I use 5 cords per winter in a normal winter and I designed my shed to hold 10 cords total. The first year after construction I had to bite the bullet and make up ten cords of wood. Since then I have only had to replace 5 cord per year and I always have 5 cords waiting for next winter that has been drying at least 18 month under cover so it is always good to go. I stack my wood parrallel with the end of the building and leave at least 6" of space between all rows as well as a minimum of 6" over the tops of the rows. Since they are on pallets there is also some airspace under the rows. This system works great for me and I like the fact that I can bring my wood right to the shed, buck, split and stack, and I'm done. When it's time to burn, I have an in house woodstove, so I go to the shed with my tractor and bucket, and in less then 30 minutes I can put enough wood on my house porch to last me at least two weeks. If you decide to build a new barn, you might want to think about something along these lines if your design permits. For the first year you would probably want to dry at least 10 cords outside with maximum sun and air and the tops covered as others have all-ready mentioned, but after that you would be in good shape and only have to replace 10 cord each spring. With a tractor and a good carry-all attachment, you could then transfer your dry wood as needed to the shed you presently have and feed the stove from there. You wouldn't have to alter it at all as the wood going in would all-ready be dry.
I find this system practical and easy to work with. It's always a good feeling this time of year to see next years wood stacked in the shed with a 10 month jump on drying time. Hope theres something here you can use.
Maplemeister:
Lots of good ideas to think about so far. We all have different situations so I will tell you what works for me and maybe there is something in here for you to use as well. I had a 24x32 foot Gambrel roof garage type building that I had put up for vehicles and storage. ON one end, the 24' dimension, I added a shed roof type extension with post supports, and left the two ends and the front open other than upright posts that support the roof as well as the ends of my rows when stacked in the shed. I did not pour a floor to save money but use pallets to stack the wood on instead. I use 5 cords per winter in a normal winter and I designed my shed to hold 10 cords total. The first year after construction I had to bite the bullet and make up ten cords of wood. Since then I have only had to replace 5 cord per year and I always have 5 cords waiting for next winter that has been drying at least 18 month under cover so it is always good to go. I stack my wood parrallel with the end of the building and leave at least 6" of space between all rows as well as a minimum of 6" over the tops of the rows. Since they are on pallets there is also some airspace under the rows. This system works great for me and I like the fact that I can bring my wood right to the shed, buck, split and stack, and I'm done. When it's time to burn, I have an in house woodstove, so I go to the shed with my tractor and bucket, and in less then 30 minutes I can put enough wood on my house porch to last me at least two weeks. If you decide to build a new barn, you might want to think about something along these lines if your design permits. For the first year you would probably want to dry at least 10 cords outside with maximum sun and air and the tops covered as others have all-ready mentioned, but after that you would be in good shape and only have to replace 10 cord each spring. With a tractor and a good carry-all attachment, you could then transfer your dry wood as needed to the shed you presently have and feed the stove from there. You wouldn't have to alter it at all as the wood going in would all-ready be dry.
I find this system practical and easy to work with. It's always a good feeling this time of year to see next years wood stacked in the shed with a 10 month jump on drying time. Hope theres something here you can use.
Maplemeister:
carpenter383
ArboristSite Lurker
If you need pallets, go to probuild (formerly ubc) in ellettsville, they have tons of free pallets. If you see them stacked out front near the highway, you can stop and get as many as you want without even going inside and asking about it.
Have you looked into hultz hauzen's? They say this is how the russians stack thier wood. Do a search on them, they're kinda neat looking and you can put about 6 cords of wood in a 10ft diameter area.
BTW, your old splitter is doing good so far. I turned the pressure up to about 2400 psi. It was only set at like 1600 ish before
Have you looked into hultz hauzen's? They say this is how the russians stack thier wood. Do a search on them, they're kinda neat looking and you can put about 6 cords of wood in a 10ft diameter area.
BTW, your old splitter is doing good so far
. I turned the pressure up to about 2400 psi. It was only set at like 1600 ish before
justlearning
ArboristSite Lurker
Headleyj,
I always have 5 cords waiting for next winter that has been drying at least 18 month under cover so it is always good to go.
Maplemeister:
Maplemeister is onto something here.
In the saw forums, "there's no replacement for displacement" is an oft-quoted phrase. With wood, there's no (inexpensive) replacement for time.
So long as wood is left in an area with a nice breeze, and is exposed to some summer weather, I've always been able to hit a reasonable moisture content, less than 20%, without any covered buildings or tarps. I don't bring wood under cover until late fall of the winter it'll be burned.
The best thing, IMO, is to get a year ahead on wood. The rest will sort itself out if the wood gets time to season.
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
:agree2:
Funny this comes up now. I just came to the conclusion this morning that I really need to build TWO woodsheds.
gwiley
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think that the question of whether to build a wood shed is more a function of interest and need for a project than a question of drying wood
My wood stacks sit outside - within a few months of the season starting I cover them with bits of plywood and roofing and the wood always seems to be fine.
My wood stacks sit outside - within a few months of the season starting I cover them with bits of plywood and roofing and the wood always seems to be fine.
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
Here's what I've settled on:
1. Palletize
2. Let stacked pallets sit out in side yard this summer (good sun and breeze)
3. Get a year ahead
4. Move 1 yr worth in woodshed before Fall rains
5. Leave next years at edge of yard and cover tops only with tin, heavy tarps or whatever.
6. Build barn next year
7. Incorporate open ended lean-to on barn for wood and tractor implements
I think this makes the most sense, is the most efficient and the wife will just have to deal with covering a row or 2 of pallets somehow for a year
She's really pretty cool - she's actually the one who suggested a permanent structure for wood AND a structure for implements. I think she'll go for it.
Maplemeister: how are you only going through 5 cords/ yr in VT when I'm burning through 10 in Indiana? OWB vs indoor maybe? OT a little, sorry
1. Palletize
2. Let stacked pallets sit out in side yard this summer (good sun and breeze)
3. Get a year ahead
4. Move 1 yr worth in woodshed before Fall rains
5. Leave next years at edge of yard and cover tops only with tin, heavy tarps or whatever.
6. Build barn next year
7. Incorporate open ended lean-to on barn for wood and tractor implements
I think this makes the most sense, is the most efficient and the wife will just have to deal with covering a row or 2 of pallets somehow for a year
She's really pretty cool - she's actually the one who suggested a permanent structure for wood AND a structure for implements. I think she'll go for it.
Maplemeister: how are you only going through 5 cords/ yr in VT when I'm burning through 10 in Indiana? OWB vs indoor maybe? OT a little, sorry
headleyj
ArboristSite Guru
I must say - the response here on AS is fantastic. Great ideas, great open communication, experiences, etc. I cant say how much I truly appreciate everyone's input, not only on this topic, but throughout the entire site. 
This type of atmosphere is how you learn.
Thanks a ton fellas (and gals - I know there's a few on here )
This type of atmosphere is how you learn.
Thanks a ton fellas (and gals - I know there's a few on here
)
