watsonr
Addicted to ArboristSite
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- Jan 3, 2010
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We are all here for the same reason... I bought a saw that was broken or you broke the saw... but definitely something like that gets you here!
We see a lot of how much does it cost, how much do I pay.. Your going to decide to fix or part it out, there is no in between these, you do it or don't... period and it really comes down to the cost of the saw purchase. Parts are all pretty close in over-all cost for most saw fixes.
Cylinder and piston are trash; Cylinder kit, fuel system service, seals, and a few odds and ends... $200-$400 depending if you go aftermarket or OEM, maybe even a little more.
Cleaned up cylinder; Piston kit, fuel system service, seals and odds and ends $75-$150
Doesn't start but the cylinder and piston are good; Fuel system service, seals, odds and ends.... <$100. These are the best value for the money, but if something is wrong you didn't see or VERIFY with your eyes, could bite you!
Any of the homeowner versions, the under $400 saws as a new purchase, you need to get for under $100 and then it's pushing it on a saw that needs everything. $50 is more like it and then your going to make $50 profit for 5-10 hours of labor. If your like me, these are beer fixing saws or probably fixing it for a buddy and he provided the beer. They are just not worth messing with unless you pull the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder! If a seller won't let you look by removing two screws or compression testing on the spot and/or running the saw.. you need to walk away.
If he won't let you test it, look inside or run it and your still buying, buy cheap, assume everything is broken and when you get it home to discover it's trash, you won't be crushed.
Pro saws, obviously cost more and the repair is definitely more. $300-500 for the entire repair bill on a saw that would have cost $600-1200 on the shelf is about right. Here it's not just the piston and cylinder, but bearings as well. Rotate everything by pulling the cord. Listen for anything unusual, dragging, hard to roll.. and not compression hard. Push the decomp and pull the cord over slow to feel the saw so it doesn't fire the cylinder. If the decomp closes, you pulled to fast or maybe even had the kill switch to run, leave it off. Don't pull it to many times or it'll flood. Feel for sticky spots, roughness, anything making noise. Next, pull the decomp so it closes and lift the saw by the cord. It will drop but slowly and it will probably drop in a jerky motion. As it hits TDC it stops, then it leaks a little compression and rolls again to the next TDC. If it falls straight down.. it's toast. Verify you closed the decomp and do it again just to be sure.
Ask if they're is anything special you need to do to start the saw. The seller will be happy to tell you how it miss-behaves, like you need to stand on one leg, hold your breath and on the third pull with one eye closed it will fire.... that's the saw you don't want. Feel the saw to see if it's warm already before you start it. On a cold saw, it should start like this; it should pop on the 2-6th pull, push the choke in and in a few pulls, it should be running.... anything but that is a problem. Something will need fixed or adjusted. Do what I mentioned above at this point... ask to see the piston, test with a gauge. Never let the man start the saw for you, if it doesn't start for you, its a problem.
A used saw in running condition sells for about 1/2 of new price, could be more or less depending on the cosmetics, but 1/2 is a good thumb rule... know that going in. Do your homework before committing to the sale, research worst case (total rebuild) and best deal (needs fuel service) before you get there. Emotions will take over while there. You will talk saws, he'll say it's been a great saw and just recently wouldn't start. You have something in common already.. the saw and a seller will play you for that.
A new saw sells for $400, I need a runner for $200 or less in good running condition.
New saw sells for $400, a broke saw needs $200 to fix, I need to score this for $100 to make a $100= $400 or a perfect saw. $50 for the saw, $200 to fix = $250 or about 1/2 of new.
Be smart, be educated and above all....... buy cheap!!!
We see a lot of how much does it cost, how much do I pay.. Your going to decide to fix or part it out, there is no in between these, you do it or don't... period and it really comes down to the cost of the saw purchase. Parts are all pretty close in over-all cost for most saw fixes.
Cylinder and piston are trash; Cylinder kit, fuel system service, seals, and a few odds and ends... $200-$400 depending if you go aftermarket or OEM, maybe even a little more.
Cleaned up cylinder; Piston kit, fuel system service, seals and odds and ends $75-$150
Doesn't start but the cylinder and piston are good; Fuel system service, seals, odds and ends.... <$100. These are the best value for the money, but if something is wrong you didn't see or VERIFY with your eyes, could bite you!
Any of the homeowner versions, the under $400 saws as a new purchase, you need to get for under $100 and then it's pushing it on a saw that needs everything. $50 is more like it and then your going to make $50 profit for 5-10 hours of labor. If your like me, these are beer fixing saws or probably fixing it for a buddy and he provided the beer. They are just not worth messing with unless you pull the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder! If a seller won't let you look by removing two screws or compression testing on the spot and/or running the saw.. you need to walk away.
If he won't let you test it, look inside or run it and your still buying, buy cheap, assume everything is broken and when you get it home to discover it's trash, you won't be crushed.
Pro saws, obviously cost more and the repair is definitely more. $300-500 for the entire repair bill on a saw that would have cost $600-1200 on the shelf is about right. Here it's not just the piston and cylinder, but bearings as well. Rotate everything by pulling the cord. Listen for anything unusual, dragging, hard to roll.. and not compression hard. Push the decomp and pull the cord over slow to feel the saw so it doesn't fire the cylinder. If the decomp closes, you pulled to fast or maybe even had the kill switch to run, leave it off. Don't pull it to many times or it'll flood. Feel for sticky spots, roughness, anything making noise. Next, pull the decomp so it closes and lift the saw by the cord. It will drop but slowly and it will probably drop in a jerky motion. As it hits TDC it stops, then it leaks a little compression and rolls again to the next TDC. If it falls straight down.. it's toast. Verify you closed the decomp and do it again just to be sure.
Ask if they're is anything special you need to do to start the saw. The seller will be happy to tell you how it miss-behaves, like you need to stand on one leg, hold your breath and on the third pull with one eye closed it will fire.... that's the saw you don't want. Feel the saw to see if it's warm already before you start it. On a cold saw, it should start like this; it should pop on the 2-6th pull, push the choke in and in a few pulls, it should be running.... anything but that is a problem. Something will need fixed or adjusted. Do what I mentioned above at this point... ask to see the piston, test with a gauge. Never let the man start the saw for you, if it doesn't start for you, its a problem.
A used saw in running condition sells for about 1/2 of new price, could be more or less depending on the cosmetics, but 1/2 is a good thumb rule... know that going in. Do your homework before committing to the sale, research worst case (total rebuild) and best deal (needs fuel service) before you get there. Emotions will take over while there. You will talk saws, he'll say it's been a great saw and just recently wouldn't start. You have something in common already.. the saw and a seller will play you for that.
A new saw sells for $400, I need a runner for $200 or less in good running condition.
New saw sells for $400, a broke saw needs $200 to fix, I need to score this for $100 to make a $100= $400 or a perfect saw. $50 for the saw, $200 to fix = $250 or about 1/2 of new.
Be smart, be educated and above all....... buy cheap!!!
