Fleebay 357xp.....

[LowVolt]

Well I finally got a husqvarna xp model saw, the 357xp. Well I have not gotten it yet, it is in route as we speak. I guess I am just anxious to get it and and keep thinking about what is wrong with it. This is the description that the seller gave for the saw. All in all it sounds good but definately raises a few eyebrows. What do you think? Here is the description and pictures.....

This is a husqvarna 357xp professional chainsaw with 20in bar and chain . Ok , here is the story on this saw . It lost compression so I brought it to the shop and they said the ring seized to the piston . they put a new piston , ring , wrist pin bearing and gaskets . They sais the cylinder was still in good shape . That got it running . Now they say it needs an updated carbutator and maybe a new manual decompression valve because it has a auto decompressioner and they are known to fail . I picked it up because I am not putting anymore into the saw because I dont really need a pro saw anyway . The saw cranks and runs , but if you let it sit and idle it seems to flood and is VERY hard to crank back up unless it sits for a good while . Also has a nice 20in bar and chain . The saw looks really nice and would be a good deal for a saw mechanic or for parts . It has alot of new parts already like piston , ring , bearing , air filter , fuel lines and filter . This saw is for parts or repair only and no returns or refunds at all . Look at pics good and ask any questions before buying this please . Great bargain for a mechanic , saw new sells for over $700 . This saw will be insured and shipped ups . Thanks and God Bless .

 

[LowVolt]

 

[SawTroll]

It is no secret that the Auto decomp that was on those for a while needs to be deactivated or replaced by a manual decomp. They usually fail sooner or later, and then create an air leak.
Also, the Walbro 190-series carbs are prone to fail at some point, but far from all of them do. They started to use Zama carbs some time in 2008 to fix this (the auto decomps disappeared earlier).

The decomp fix is cheap and easy, and don't replace the carb before it actually acts up.

 

[LowVolt]

It is no secret that the Auto decomp that was on those for a while needs to be deactivated or replaced by a manual decomp. They usually fail sooner or later, and then create an air leak.
Also, the Walbro 190-series carbs are prone to fail at some point, but far from all of them do. They started to use Zama carbs some time in 2008 to fix this (the auto decomps disappeared earlier).

The decomp fix is cheap and easy, and don't replace the carb before it actually acts up.

SO with the decomp, do I replace or just plug it? I have the ipl at home and I did not think there were two decomp. valves listed, do you have the part # of the manual decomp?

Also how do you rate this xp model saw?

Thanks for the info!

 

[barneyrb]

57cc saw, just plug it. If it was a 90cc with 175+ compression then think about repair.

 

[sunfish]

Good saw!

I've put a lot of hours on mine and love it!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

A variety of problems are associated with the 357/359 -- most of which are easily remedied and addressed in various tech notes from Husky. One of the main issues -- aside from the "auto-decomp" abomination, is the cheeeeeesy plastic clamp for the intake boot at the intake port of the cylinder. The carb issues associated with the HD-199 may or may not affect your saw if the saw indeed has that model carb.

Great saw. I paid 90 bux for mine from a dealer who ended up with it as a junker from a warranty claim over the intake issue after Husky gave the original purchaser a new saw -- no questions asked due to the known issues.

 

[MGoBlue]

I'm really likin' the 357. Once sorted I think you will too.

Mine has been flawless.

 

[LowVolt]

57cc saw, just plug it. If it was a 90cc with 175+ compression then think about repair.

Anyone know what size plug it is? Where to get one?

A variety of problems are associated with the 357/359 -- most of which are easily remedied and addressed in various tech notes from Husky. One of the main issues -- aside from the "auto-decomp" abomination, is the cheeeeeesy plastic clamp for the intake boot at the intake port of the cylinder. The carb issues associated with the HD-199 may or may not affect your saw if the saw indeed has that model carb.

Great saw. I paid 90 bux for mine from a dealer who ended up with it as a junker from a warranty claim over the intake issue after Husky gave the original purchaser a new saw -- no questions asked due to the known issues.

So how is the plastic clamp on the intake boot remedied? Metal clamp from a Stihl?

Thanks a lot guys!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

So how is the plastic clamp on the intake boot remedied? Metal clamp from a Stihl?

I think I'd stick with the Husky version.

 

[blsnelling]

Anyone know what size plug it is? Where to get one?



So how is the plastic clamp on the intake boot remedied? Metal clamp from a Stihl?

Thanks a lot guys!

Get a plug from your Stihl dealer. They're the same. Or, you can put a Stihl decomp in it. Get a clamp for a 390XP. It's PN 505 28 33-02 and is <$5. They work great. Go through the carb before you buy a new one. A new Zama C3 EL42 is only $42 though.

 

[SawTroll]

SO with the decomp, do I replace or just plug it? I have the ipl at home and I did not think there were two decomp. valves listed, do you have the part # of the manual decomp?

Also how do you rate this xp model saw?

Thanks for the info!

That's up to you, but remember that the auto decomp has a small "nipple" further down on the cylinder than than where the manual one fits, and that nipple also need to be shut off. If you use a plug or a manual decomp in the main decomp opening is up to you.

If your IPL doesn't show the auto decomp, look at an older one than the one you have.

The 357xp is a sound basic design, with an excellent stock cylinder design - but it was a little hurt in the wiew of many by the fact that it was to be compared to 60cc saws, but only was 56.5cc. Imho, it was a mistake to not make the bore of the cylinder a little larger. In addition they had to strengthen the case shortly after production started, so it ended up weighting like some true 60cc saws.

It actually was meant to replace the 254xp - so it wasn't really meant to be classified with the 60cc saws.

The model also was used as sort of a "test-bed" for different new features, and not all of them turned out well. The most important one did though, the "crank stuffers", that was "inherited" by the 560xp/562xp and the 550xp, and is an important part of that design!

 

[SawTroll]

I think I'd stick with the Husky version.

Doesn't really matter. There are several clamps that can be used, if you know what to do.

 

[sunfish]

Plastic intake clamp replacement, I've used the 'new' 357/359 metal clamp on one and also a metal clamp for a 372xp on another.

 

[LowVolt]

Thanks for all the input guys! I will swap out these problematic parts when I get the saw. I will post up pictures when I get it.

Are the fuel lines in the picture oem? It looks like bulk fuel line that they sell at a few dealers I go to. Is that yellowish fuel line good? I just always seem to be using the black bulk fuel line or model specific pre-made fuel lines. Again I have worked on quite a few stihls and only one husqvarna 61. It sucks cause there is not a dealer close to my work or home. :frown:

 

[dl5205]

Somebody, or multiple somebodies, has already 'been there' on this saw. Check Everything before you trust anything. Pull the muff, check the ex side of the slug and the int side of the jug. Check compression. Check for vac/pressure leaks. Fix the intake. Be skeptical of the carb. Trust nothing. Be paranoid.

 

[LowVolt]

That's up to you, but remember that the auto decomp has a small "nipple" further down on the cylinder than than where the manual one fits, and that nipple also need to be shut off. If you use a plug or a manual decomp in the main decomp opening is up to you.

If your IPL doesn't show the auto decomp, look at an older one than the one you have.

The 357xp is a sound basic design, with an excellent stock cylinder design - but it was a little hurt in the wiew of many by the fact that it was to be compared to 60cc saws, but only was 56.5cc. Imho, it was a mistake to not make the bore of the cylinder a little larger. In addition they had to strengthen the case shortly after production started, so it ended up weighting like some true 60cc saws.

It actually was meant to replace the 254xp - so it wasn't really meant to be classified with the 60cc saws.

The model also was used as sort of a "test-bed" for different new features, and not all of them turned out well. The most important one did though, the "crank stuffers", that was "inherited" by the 560xp/562xp and the 550xp, and is an important part of that design!

Ok I finally got the saw today, got it home and started to tear it down. I would have to agree that the auto decomp is a problem waiting to happen. When I was disassembling, I easily pulled the rubber hose off the lower nipple on the cylinder without even removing the wire hose clamp. :msp_ohmy: The decomp valve will be easy to plug but what about the nipple? Does it just unscrew? If it does can I then take a short metric allen head bolt and plug it? Should I put a little yamabond on it so it seals up good?

 

[SawTroll]

Look at the 2005-02 IPL here, section D. I believe part # 537 18 00-01 is a cap that is meant for sealing that nipple off.
At least that is the same part that was used for the same purpose on the 339xp.....

 

[LowVolt]

Look at the 2005-02 IPL here, section D. I believe part # 537 18 00-01 is a cap that is meant for sealing that nipple off.
At least that is the same part that was used for the same purpose on the 339xp.....

Awesome thanks.

Well got the muffler and cylinder off and it did not look good. Piston already has transfer and the ring is sticking. When I took the muffler off gas came out of it. Not a lot but not a little. Then I took the cylinder off and there is standing gas in the bottom of the crankcase. All under the muffler and the cylinder it is just wet with gas and sawdust. Have a look...

Also the carb on it is a Walboro HDA 199A

 

[nmurph]

The piston doesn't look too bad. I bet the cylinder will clean right up.

I would replace the hose, plug that decomp mess, replace the seals, delete the base gasket, clean the cylinder and install a Meteor piston, and do a MM. You will have a very nice running saw when you are done.