Fliplines.. Steel vs Rope

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Hobby, that is a good one about using bull rope, makes sense, back in the old days when the towers were wood and the men were steel, the high rigger used a really thick manilla rope to climb those big spars. Big John, figured it out yet?
 
No I aint figured it out yet. Why you need caulks on your boots? I'm just different I guess. I dont need an arsonal of equipment and parade in my honor to get the job done twice as fast as the next guy. Just knowing the quicker I get it done the quicker I can go home do something I really want to do.

I guess if the situation really calls for steel then use steel. If it doesnt why use it. Why ask questions you know the answer to? Use what ever you want to use your going to anyway. No one here going to change your mind.

I'd much rather footlock the distance than hook it. Anyone who says differently can't footlock.
 
Big John, you have to wear caulk boots to work in the bush here, it is workers comp. regs. law, also makes good sense. Caulks are like a magnet on steel when waliking on logs, slash. I can't footlock, I got my own opinions on what it looks like, but I have come to have respect for people that do it. Some of the trees I climb would be pretty hard to spurless, maybe some impossible, if I saw someone do it (after they stumbled through the bush in thier funny boots), I would be impressed. If they could do it all day long I would be amazed.
 
what clearance does regulations say you gotta wear caulk boots...you;re in the forest...if you ain't wearing them your sitting in the truck.... same as steelcore....you gotta...its the rules... same with spurs....you're not gonna foootlock up these trees cuz a) workers comp would send you back to the truck B)the fellas would laugh you back to the truck C) there's no way you'd get a throwline up in these things in any reasonable amount of time or and any safe branch... its just a different scene... its strictly function
 
clearance said:
Hobby, that is a good one about using bull rope, makes sense
It would seem to make sense, but most bull ropes of today have a rather soft hand, making them essentially the same as a climbing line for a flipline purpose. For example (and I've personally tested both of these as fliplines), 1/2" New England High-Vee vs. 1/2" Stable Braid, pretty much the same. If the diameter between the two is the same, the actual in-use performance is very much the same. You may have a difference in tensile strength, but in a flipline situation, you will never test those outer limits, so the benefit of the extra strength is just mental (and I can respect that).

If you want a stiffer rope flipline, you would be advised to go with static kernmantle, like the stuff they use in vertical caving. That stuff is non-stretch and rock hard. The one from Sherrill is listed as Samson 1/2" static kermantle and is very much the same as the cheaper caving rope, stiff, tight, hard hand. However, it is listed as non-splicable.
 
Re: bull rope as flip line...

Don't quote me but I believe it was MB that had mentioned using a bull rope as a flip line. It was thicker than 1/2" & I think it was Sampson Stable Brade. Using thicker rope was a bit stiffer than 1/2" and flipped better. But yes, Tree Machine, your correct that rope is no match for steel flip lines regarding strength!!! BTW, has anyone heard from DFD34 since starting this post??? Hope we haven't scared him away! HC
 
I was on vacation last month in Florida where I have a saddle rigged and ready down there. I have that one rigged with Stable Braid and I promise you, it's no stiffer than regular 13 mm climbing line, and flips the same, IMO.

Yesterday I did a little ascent up a 30' limbless trunk, where you hug the tree with the inside of your knees, shins and ankles, do a quick flip with the flipline, 'curl' yourself up, leg hug, repeat. This is when you're too dang lazy to walk over to the truck to get a throwline and the first limb is a bit far for a monkey's fist. Anyway, I used to do that most impressively when I was on wirecore, but yesterday, on rope flipline, I struggled like a whining weenie. The rope would 'roll'. Wirecore doesn't do that. I use that method, also, on limbless stems up top, but I'm gonna probably not do that up high in the tree; not with the current flipline anyway, not above my tie-in point.


DFD34, you still with us?
 
Stumpy, why the mean comment? The guys I am talking about would make you look like a little girl, even if you were allowed to climb around power. Tree Machine-sounds like hard work, is that allowed?, like what if you slipped?
 
Slipping is not good. And it is hard; I don't do it much, usually in crux situations.

I pretty much know all the easy ways around a tree. By mixing up your methods, going for the difficult maneuvers and busting technical moves it keeps you sharp. And entertained. And in shape.

If you always take the easy way, your skills will remain in that box. If I wanted easy, I would be doing something other than tree work.

Same way in mixing up the fliplines. I am a diehard fan of steelcore, though haven't used one in over a year. Why? How am I to know the differences if I don't try out some rope fliplines? Only over time and use can I truly know the finer nuances. Like yesterday doing the Koala crawl up the trunk. I had a really hard time with the rope lanyard. Before going up I assumed it would be the same as using a wirecore, but it wasn't. Wasn't even in the same league. How would I know unless I'd tried? Now, I know not to do that way up high, and not to depend on it in a crux. I'm safer for that.
 
when I was working with the electric company, the only lanyard we used was a pole climbing strap. I had to bring my own lanyards if I wanted one. When I first started with them we didn't even have fall restraint in the bucket. Now on my own, I use a steel core flip line and a three-in-one lanyard. Always tied in with that dude
 
I use my old buckstrap or just the climbing line if I feel there is any chance I will have to cut myself free. Thee have been situations where I have my spider knife ready, and ready to bail if I feel I might have to cut loose. It's never happened thank you lord.

So in other words, I've already decided if this tree is risky before I go up, and won't bring along my steel flipline. For me, I will spend as much time as I need to evaluate the tree before I even start the climb, hopefully reducing the chance that the tree will split when I have my steel line around it.
 
Cronic, and others, heres an idea. If you think the tree might split, lash it with a piece of rope, or a chain with a grab hook. I have done it with my other steel core on a codom cedar at about 120', choked her of good, cut of one top.
 
Why would you think the tree might split? If you have spars splitting out on you when your cutting your not doing something right.

I may sound like a pain in the ass but I've got real answers.

Tree Machine, why not take the easy way out? Isn't that what everyone is looking for an easier way, a safer way.

Some things I do understand, I wouldnt want to ask for ladder when I could footlock sure the ladder is easier on me but it involves asking for a ladder or having to get it yourself.
 
BigJohn said:
Why would you think the tree might split? If you have spars splitting out on you when your cutting your not doing something right.

I may sound like a pain in the ass but I've got real answers.

Tree Machine, why not take the easy way out? Isn't that what everyone is looking for an easier way, a safer way.

Some things I do understand, I wouldnt want to ask for ladder when I could footlock sure the ladder is easier on me but it involves asking for a ladder or having to get it yourself.
Yes, you are a pain in the ass, sometimes you do have real answers. I climbed a bigger red cedar that had two tops, I wanted to remove one, I could see the split in the tree about 6ft. down from where the tops started. I had a concern that it would split from the force of the top falling. Does that sound reasonable to you that it be restrained from possibly splitting? The easy way out=spurs.
 
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