Frustraited about the whole thing.

[mud-dog]

I have just built a log splitter, it has a 2"shaft 24" stroke, I have an 11gpm 2 stage pump and a auto neutral detent, a 6 gallon reservoir, I have put a 5.5 brigs off a new lawnmower on it and I cant get it to start,feels like there is too much torque to get it started. The pump and motor shaft are direct connect.Is my motor not big enough, if so I have a 17 hp off a riding mower, should I change them out?:censored:

 

[urbanlogger52]

Splitter

Hey dog. Is it a barns pump. If so look on their website and see the HP recommended for that pump. I know I got a 28 gpm pump that requires a min 16 HP. Hope it gets going for ya

 

[loadthestove]

5.5 hp should work good with the 11gpm pump,sounds like it is trying to build up pressure when starting the motor,make sure you valve is not engaged..pull rope thru several times and see if cylinder is trying to move when you crank it...

 

[urbanlogger52]

Here is the Haldex Web site. http://www.haldex.com/hbus. have a look there is lots of info there. It's funny it does not at least fire up. the HP may be a factor under load but I am not shure of that. Seems like they are showing 8 hp for the 3 different 11 gph pumps they market. Have a look though and they also have a link for help. Later

 

[ray benson]

11gpm 2 stage Haldex/Barnes pump needs a 5 hp gas engine .
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2304020621405476&item=9-1388&catname=hydraulic

 

[urbanlogger52]

Yeah fiar enough 5 hp should work. Maby the auto detent is not working . I check with Haldex also and send them you hydraulic plan maby they can spot something

 

[mud-dog]

Still Frustraited

Thanks to you all, the pump is a haldex ,brand new along with detent(CROSS) , hoses,and ram.I looked at the haldex site to make sure the 5.5 would carry the pump, it suggests a 6hp or higher but also says a 5.5 should do it..... it doesn't. I guess what I'll do now is put the motor back on the mower deck so that it's not a total waste and use the 17 that is on my old rider,may be a little overkill but so what it's pretty much shot as far as the mowing goes but the motor still starts and runs like new, there goes my tractor, as I call it. Just gonna hate to hack up all the new fab work to do some more for the new mount, that is if the 17 won't mount in the one I already have. Maybe I should have just bought one ready to go but my male pride wouldn't let me pay that kind of cake especially when I can build one myself,at least I thought, so paying for my schooling as they say, by having to redo most of it over again. I'll post a couple pics of it in action once it's done, and oh yes it will get done. Thanks again y'all.

 

[lobsta1]

How cold was it when you were trying to start it? I have a Honda 5.5/6 hp(?) chinese clone on my splitter. When trying to start it at 15 degrees, it was like pulling salt water taffy!

Last summer I replaced the hydraulic oil with generic Autozone oil. Don't know the weight, but it is definitely tougher to start in the cold than it used to be.
Al

 

[mud-dog]

How cold was it when you were trying to start it? I have a Honda 5.5/6 hp(?) chinese clone on my splitter. When trying to start it at 15 degrees, it was like pulling salt water taffy!

Last summer I replaced the hydraulic oil with generic Autozone oil. Don't know the weight, but it is definitely tougher to start in the cold than it used to be.
Al

Close to 38 today plus I have a heated garage, I thought about that too, the temp that is.

 

[lobsta1]

Before I did anything else, I would uncouple the pump & see how the motor starts.
Al

 

[turnkey4099]

There is something wrong somewhere. I had a 5hp Briggs and 13 gal pump direct coupled and had no problem at all starting it.

That 5.5 and 11 gal should start easy, something is not right. Uncouple the pump/motor and see if either one is "stiff". You should be able to easily turn the pump by hand.

I for sure wouldn't go about doing the motor changeovr without a thorough investigation first.

Harry K

 

[mud-dog]

There is something wrong somewhere. I had a 5hp Briggs and 13 gal pump direct coupled and had no problem at all starting it.

That 5.5 and 11 gal should start easy, something is not right. Uncouple the pump/motor and see if either one is "stiff". You should be able to easily turn the pump by hand.

I for sure wouldn't go about doing the motor changeovr without a thorough investigation first.

Harry K

I made sure the pump turned freely before I bought it and the motor always starts with either 1st or 2nd pull. The pump has a 1" inlet and a 1/2" outlet, the detent has a 3/4" inlet and return, the A & B ports are 1/2". I had to use couplers to connect from pump to detent and from detent to reservoir return, I used 1/2" hoses between them,I'm starting to think that could be the problem, restriction of flow. I think getting 3/4" hoses to replace the ones from pump to detent, using a coupler from pump to hose and the same from detent back to tank. If that doesn't take care of the problem then it's on to the motor swap, if that doesn't work then it's off to the scrap yard.:censored:it. Thanks for y'all s ideas

 

[2dogs]

This would get better responces in the firewood forum.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

This would get better responces in the firewood forum.

Or maybe over on Lawnsite. Just a thought.

 

[Mike Van]

I've run 11 gpm pump 30 years on 5 hp, something else is wrong there. Quick couplers aren't rated for the flow you want, and when you do get it running, they will heat the oil something awful. Do you have a Lovejoy type coupler between the pump & engine? It sounds to me you have something way out of line, thats binding up the crankshaft. Mine started the other morning [outside] at 5F, and thats with 10W 30 for hyd. oil.

 

[BuddhaKat]

You have to go through a process of elimination. As suggested above, the first thing I would do is disconnect the motor to see if it will run on its own. If not, you have your answer. If it does run then reconnect it and see if it will start with the motor warmed up. If not, then you have your answer. Check the pump while it's disconnected as well and make sure it's free spinning. If it is, that's a clue.

The motor has plenty of power to drive the pump and ram under a no-load cycle.

 

[Steve In Phx]

Valve could be your issue

You mentioned the valve was an auto detent valve. By that, I think you mean it returns to center when you release the handle. Does the valve configuration return P to T (pressure to tank) when the handle is in the neutral position? If not, and P is blocked to T it could be trying to hydraulic lock the pump making it almost impossible to start.

 

[joesawer]

Just because something is new does not mean it is good.
I think Steve in Phx is probably right it sound like a hydraulic lock most likely. When those gears inside the pump try to turn that fluid has to have some where to go.

 

[wigglesworth]

A push mower engine will have a brake band around the flywheel for the saftey lever on the mower. Have you disabled it? If you havent, there is your problem.

 

[mud-dog]

frustrated about the hole thang

Thank you everyone for your input, it was the "fluid" , it was too thick, after I swaped the tractor hydro fluid with auto tranny fluid, it preformed better than was originally expected to. Thanx again everyone.