Gap between magneto coil and magnets. Husqvarna 357xp - and probably other models. 544047001 54404703

[fhinson]

A bit odd to come looking for advise, then not following it. Good Luck!

Advice was all helpful. Some said to modify Chinese part. Some said buy OEM part. Some said look out for second hand OEM part. Some didn't believe there was anything wrong with the part and just gave instructions on how to set the gap, which made me thinking that perhaps I'd just picked up one dud part - hence ordering more of them.

 

[fhinson]

I try to tell folks...

Most likely you still have an inadequate spark due to the coil gap being out of spec. That may be why it runs "ok". Lots of folks are perfectly fine with their equipment running "ok" if they can save a buck. But was two weeks of dicking around with the saw and the Chinese really worth it?

Here's an OEM coil. If you're not in a hurry and keep an eye out on ebay once or twice a week you can find a better price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1539122554...9iAwRcoBXTystGD3G0sO|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524

Thanks for your comments. When you use a chainsaw several times a year it is difficult to be sure of what's OK and what's perfect. Even more so, as I got mine second hand and the original carb had already been replaced by a Chinese Zama carb.
A second hand OEM coil might be great, but I now know that the increasing difficulty restarting my saw when hot has been due to gradual deterioration of the original coil. So a used part might bring its own problems. At least the saw now starts more easily than it has ever done since I first got it.

 

[tomalophicon]

Thanks for your comments. When you use a chainsaw several times a year it is difficult to be sure of what's OK and what's perfect. Even more so, as I got mine second hand and the original carb had already been replaced by a Chinese Zama carb.
A second hand OEM coil might be great, but I now know that the increasing difficulty restarting my saw when hot has been due to gradual deterioration of the original coil. So a used part might bring its own problems. At least the saw now starts more easily than it has ever done since I first got it.

Isn't the Zama carb OEM on this saw?

 

[huskihl]

I try to tell folks...

Most likely you still have an inadequate spark due to the coil gap being out of spec. That may be why it runs "ok". Lots of folks are perfectly fine with their equipment running "ok" if they can save a buck. But was two weeks of dicking around with the saw and the Chinese really worth it?

Here's an OEM coil. If you're not in a hurry and keep an eye out on ebay once or twice a week you can find a better price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1539122554...9iAwRcoBXTystGD3G0sO|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524

I’ve bought several used oem 350 coils on eBay for $15. Those days might be gone though

 

[huskihl]

Isn't the Zama carb OEM on this saw?

Yes. Lol

 

[cuinrearview]

I’ve bought several used oem 350 coils on eBay for $15. Those days might be gone though

The last blown up complete 350 I bought this spring was $20. Guess I should part that **** out.

 

[huskihl]

The last blown up complete 350 I bought this spring was $20. Guess I should part that **** out.

Save me the coils lol

 

[fhinson]

Thanks for the info about the carb. Thought is should have been a Walbro. I think I'm maybe going to fork out top dollar for a new coil. The saw starts ok in all conditions, but I'm sure it should have more torque in a wide cut. Thanks all you guys for sharing your considerable experience with a keen amateur.

 

[J D]

Thanks for the info about the carb. Thought is should have been a Walbro. I think I'm maybe going to fork out top dollar for a new coil. The saw starts ok in all conditions, but I'm sure it should have more torque in a wide cut. Thanks all you guys for sharing your considerable experience with a keen amateur.

The earlier saws had the Walbro carb. On those the vent for the metering diaphragm is piped back to the inside of the air filter rather than atmosphere in an attempt to compensate for air intake restrictions... as a result they have a bunch of issues & a lot of people either convert them to a traditional setup or fit the Zama carb. This is one of the few times where a Zama carb is the preferable option.

 

[fhinson]

Didn't they also have something called an 'accelerator pump' that also led to them being swapped out early in the life of these saws?

 

[sean donato]

Yes, but that wasn't always the issue with them, my 359 has the original walbro carb in it, the biggest issue it had was the carb originally had a black plastic diaphragm, and these saws are notes for weak pulse signals from the engine, this combination doesn't let it pump fuel efficiently once the saw get some age on it. I can't remember whom, but one of the guys (randy?) Had made a video of how to correct these issues. Mine works flawlessly now. If/when it craps out again I'll just buy the zama for it, ad the walbro is nla in any form save another kit for it.

 

[cuinrearview]

Yes, but that wasn't always the issue with them, my 359 has the original walbro carb in it, the biggest issue it had was the carb originally had a black plastic diaphragm, and these saws are notes for weak pulse signals from the engine, this combination doesn't let it pump fuel efficiently once the saw get some age on it. I can't remember whom, but one of the guys (randy?) Had made a video of how to correct these issues. Mine works flawlessly now. If/when it craps out again I'll just buy the zama for it, ad the walbro is nla in any form save another kit for it.

Scotty Too Hotty. Go on YouTube and search "tree monkey hda-159" or something real close.

 

[sean donato]

Scotty Too Hotty. Go on YouTube and search "tree monkey hda-159" or something real close.

Yep tree monkey that was it.

 

[fhinson]

I try to tell folks...

Most likely you still have an inadequate spark due to the coil gap being out of spec. That may be why it runs "ok". Lots of folks are perfectly fine with their equipment running "ok" if they can save a buck. But was two weeks of dicking around with the saw and the

You were absolutely right, cuinrearview. After a full day in the forest, I knew my 357xp should be giving more torque and rpm. And if the Chinese hadn't got the physical dimensions of the part right, what were the chances that they'd got the electronics optimised? So I coughed up £90 ($124 USD) for a new OEM part. It was very simple to set the correct gap. The result was like I'd been given a new saw with at least 50% more power.

Second hand OEM coils might be worth buying up, but I wouldn't pay more than 20% of the price of a new part, as I now know that they can gradually deteriorate over time. That was my experience, and Husqvarna UK also say that they expect them to need replacing from time to time. Perhaps you can improve their life by keeping all the air spaces around them free of muck. I'll certainly be keeping an eye on that now.