Granberg File and Joint

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Qsky

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Are The Granberg file and joints all metal?? no plastic?? I have an Oregon that has plastic parts. It binds and is kind of a pain in the ass to use at times. I want a quality tool.
 
don't know about new granbergs... but the old version is solid!
all metal construction and works great.

highly recommended as a teaching aid, until you learn angles it's cutting. then you can file by hand.
 
They are all metal. I just bought one.

I am not impressed with this style tool. It is very slow compared to an oregon or stihl file guide- see link below. With some care and practice, I believe these do as good a job as the Grandburg.

HTML:
http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200307161.htm
 
They are all metal. I just bought one.

I am not impressed with this style tool. It is very slow compared to an oregon or stihl file guide- see link below. With some care and practice, I believe these do as good a job as the Grandburg.

HTML:
http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200307161.htm

your link did not work.

whats the difference, i thought they were all basicly the same???

Serg
 
I bought a Granberg File-N-Joint G106-B a couple of days ago at Northern Tool. It is all metal and since I've always filed by hand, I don't have any experience to compare it to, but so far I think it's a quality tool. I wouldn't want to try filing a rocked chain with it, but for touching up moderately dull cutters it's great. JMO :)
 
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all these type tools are slow... but used as a teaching aid... they are hard to beat.

much to be said about being able to file set angle by hand. first by jig, then free hand. all one is doing when filing by hand is duplicating what a jig is doing.

once you learn how to file by hand... that file-n-joint will gather dust.

if one doesn't have a grinder yet, use file-n-joint to set angles.

They are all metal. I just bought one.

I am not impressed with this style tool. It is very slow compared to an oregon or stihl file guide- see link below. With some care and practice, I believe these do as good a job as the Grandburg.

HTML:
http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200307161.htm
 
:clap: I have the oregon. Gets my chains sharp enough to get curlies and chips. A little practice, and youll get better n better.
 
http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200307161.htm


A tip: when you need to put a link in a thread, you can just paste it in. The forum software will make it work.

Thanks Mark

Obviously I'm new at this.

I think the Grandberg is built better than the others, and has it's place, but I am filing by hand, with the guides I mentioned. They keep the file at the right height on the tooth, and help keep the angles correct.
To each his own.
.
 
Thanks Mark

Obviously I'm new at this.

I think the Grandberg is built better than the others, and has it's place, but I am filing by hand, with the guides I mentioned. They keep the file at the right height on the tooth, and help keep the angles correct.
To each his own.
.

ok i see the guide you are referring to now.

i think the Granberg style jigs are good for newbies like me that have never put file to chain before.

Serg
 
I have a granberg - it is all metal. I used to use it a lot more often than I do now, as I freehand most of my filing. On the other hand, it comes in handy when my kids want to help out with sharpening one of the saws for me! :givebeer:
 
highly recommended as a teaching aid, until you learn angles it's cutting. then you can file by hand.

This is the big + on any guide, if you don't have someone that knows what they are doing to show you, the guide will and that will take years off the time it takes to be a good filer, sq or round.

Later,
 
Granberg

I like mine so much I have two , I have one for each side , I have used others , I think Granberg make the best . TEDMI.

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I have some DU bushes on order for my Oregon version.
Going to ream out the plastic housing and press the DU bushes in so it's a bit smoother and less wobble.
 
I like mine so much I have two , I have one for each side , I have used others , I think Granberg make the best . TEDMI.

What about loosing the exact settings you used on the first side when you swap to the other side. Using 2 different tools means there is room for error when setting up the 2nd tool as opposed to only needing to loosen 1 wingnut and change the top angle to the same degree mark on the other side which takes only seconds.
Being that both sides filed the same angles, height ect. is desired, I wouldn't want to depend on my ability to set up the tool the same twice. Am I missing something here? I am new to this method filing.


My Granberg is like yours (seen here and here}.
As I posted before, I just bought it, but I already have found a few things I don't care for with it.
1- The slide started to try to bind in the bushings after sharpening about 40 teeth. I cured the problem by applying a small amount of bearing grease which worked fine, but I don't like using grease since there is so much microscopic metal dust flying around with this proceedure just itching to get in those bushings. I'll get a stick of graphite tomorrow and try.

2- I am going to install a hex nut in place of the wing nut for the tilt angle lock. I can't get my fingers in there but a wrench will fit fine.

3- Replace the bolt that sets the stop point with a rounded top hex head bolt (that I will modify at work tonight ) so that I can use a wrench on it. - I'd like to make this stop adjustment by screwing it out until the head barely touches, then screw it back in according to the amount of metal I want to file. The problem is, when the file is in position in the tooth, I can't get my fingers in there to srew it out till it touches.

Again I'm new to this file guide stuff so someone please let me know what I'm missing with these 3 issues.
All in all, I like the tool for it's accuracy. I see why we never used any mechanical sharpener tools like this (other than a grinder for the chain on a Bell Saw mechanical harvester) in the woods logging. It is just too time consuming. Hand filing is SO much faster. But since I use my saws very little nowadays and am in no hurry, I really like the accuracy of this technique. I'm certainly glad I bought the Granberg G106-B. ;)
 
Flipping the file out of the tooth, approx 270 deg CCW handle rotation, should give you plenty of finger room.

There are index serrations cast into the components to closely duplicate the angles when you switch flip sides.

I am more concerned with the inconsistent way these tools establish the depth that the file rides in the tooth gullet. If this is not correct you can get too little or too much hook angle which leads to either a strong tooth edge that requires more force to cut or a thinner one that is more fragile. The Oregon or Stihl style file guides get the file height perfect.

You might also try separating the clamps that hold the file so they utilize the whole length of the file. Yours are choked up about 2” shorter than they need to be.
 
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I have one of the "new Granberg" style file guides, and also a few of the old style. I have to say, compared to the old ones, the new chinese models, or where ever it is made, are simply weak and flimsy. I purchased one thinking that I would replace an old one with worn out bushings with it. I was very disappointed with the new one, and will only use it in a pinch. I am rebuilding my old, quality made units!!:cheers:
 
Granberg

I GEUSS there is room for error , all I can say is when I sharpen my saws , they are like new chains again , I don't let them get dull , I keep them sharp , I hand filed for years , started cutting would in 1981 , when I found the granburg ,it was like a dream come ture , I like it alot . TEDMI.
 

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