Granberg File and Joint

[lectrocrew]

Flipping the file out of the tooth, approx 270 deg CCW handle rotation, should give you plenty of finger room.

But when first setting up the limit thumbscrew for the amount of metal to be remove based on the shortest cutter, the file needs to be in filing position against the tooth so a starting point can be found by turning the thumbwheel counterclockwise till it just contacts the center bar on the file holder / slide assembly, then turning it clockwise to set the amount of metal to be taken off. What I'm saying is that thumbwheel is hard to get to with the file is in position at this point

There are index serrations cast into the components to closely duplicate the angles when you switch flip sides.

Yes, and it only takes a few seconds as I mentioned previously:

Using 2 different tools means there is room for error when setting up the 2nd tool as opposed to only needing to loosen 1 wingnut and change the top angle to the same degree mark on the other side which takes only seconds.

You might also try separating the clamps that hold the file so they utilize the whole length of the file. Yours are choked up about 2” shorter than they need to be.

Thank you for pointing that out. I've filed 2 saws already and have not noticed that yet.

Below are pictures of hex nuts installed in place of the wingnuts that can be easily accessed with a 3/8 ignition wrench. I didn't get a chance to fab up a hex thumbwheel yet.

PHOTO 1
PHOTO 2

 

[Jim Mesthene]

Two things I noticed after using my Granberg for a couple of years:
It's a Guide, not a Jig. The distinction in my mind is a guide helps you get the right angles, a jig would keep you from getting it wrong. The Stops on the Granberg can easily be overcome with hand pressure. Don't rely on the Stops to actually stop the file.
The other thing I learned, after reading a long thread here, was that it works much better when filing backwards; i.e. file from the outside of the Cutter towards the inside. When you do that with the Granberg, the filing pressure is against the Cutter Stop so the Cutter wiggles less in response to file pressure. Try it.

I've found it to be a great learning tool. I bought it because my angles varied too much freehand. After using the guide for a while, I now only use it to correct the angles after several freehand sharpenings.

 

[046]

most folks don't know this... but granberg used to make a specific square filing model. (someone posted a pic awhile back)

spoke at length to an old tech at granberg.... he was going to send me parts to convert my std granberg to a square file setup.... if he could find it.... never received it... so looks like he couldn't find it...

sooooooo.... happy I'm now setup with a Simington 450 square grinder!

went though all the BS of using a modded granberg.... hand filing... etc... made the decision to give up square chains..... didn't have enough patience to spend 15-20 min per chain. .... then I got lucky and found my Simington!

 

[Crofter]

The Stops on the Granberg can easily be overcome with hand pressure. Don't rely on the Stops to actually stop the file.
The other thing I learned, after reading a long thread here, was that it works much better when filing backwards; i.e. file from the outside of the Cutter towards the inside. When you do that with the Granberg, the filing pressure is against the Cutter Stop so the Cutter wiggles less in response to file pressure. Try it.

All the guides I have seen have the problem of not adequately supporting the tooth to keep it from moving either sideways or rolling back, chatttering or being lifted up.(Yes I know it helps somewhat if you really overtighten the chain). As Jim mentions the stops can easily be overcome by springing and it is hard to apply sufficient pressure to get good file life. The square filing angles are even more sharply turned angles and worse for springing the stops. There is also much more uplift on the tooth as you are filing from under. They are good for mentally imprinting the correct angles or occasionally proofing your handfiling but they are too slow to be practical if you are doing a lot of cutting and have to make your time count.
At 8 dollars or more a pop for chisel bit files I dont think you will find many people doing commercial cutting and hand file square. I agree with 046 and Bturner here on the benefits of a square grinder! Grinding and hand filing dont mix well either as unless you are extremely carefull you will put in hard spots that wreck a chisel bit file. Actually the same is true of round filed/ground but you can put a bit more moxy on a round file and they are less than a buck a piece.