So you are rejecting your theory of cetrifigul force now?
The oil covers the whole chain dude. The sprocket is better of with oil than grease...
Grease It?
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So you are rejecting your theory of cetrifigul force now?
The oil covers the whole chain dude. The sprocket is better of with oil than grease...
I would think your chain slows down and stops enough for some oil to leak down to oil the sprocket bearings. The components get very warm so the oil flows accordingly. Milling may be more of an issue , I don't know.
I seldom grease my tips. If I do its when I am servicing the bar at home. I don't care to carry the greasegun with me for a chainsaw. I use many differant bar brands and treat them all close to the same. 9 of 10 times the sprocket wears out before the bearings for me.
windthrown
361 Junkie
I grease my tips. I especially like my GB bars with nose sprockets that have grease holes. Mini grease gun is small and simple to use.
I had an older Oregon bar sprocket delaminate on me at the tip. I replaced it, and the new one has a grease hole there. Gee, I wonder why?
I had an older Oregon bar sprocket delaminate on me at the tip. I replaced it, and the new one has a grease hole there. Gee, I wonder why?
I grease them at each fuel up and/or chain sharpening, have been since the late 70's.
A few years ago I was running the original 20" bar on my Husqvarna 480, which had at that time been in service since 1980, so at least 25 years. I forgot to bring the tool box (where I keep the grease tool) on that outing, and went ahead and ran the saw all day, just touching up the chain and fueling it up.
On the 3rd tank of fuel it SMOKED the roller nose in the bar. Coincidence? Could be, as that bar had cut hundreds and hundreds of cords of wood, and I had long lost count of how many chains had worn out on it.
Anyhow, never tried that again, and it was the first and only roller nose I've burned up in over 30 years of cutting.......Cliff
A few years ago I was running the original 20" bar on my Husqvarna 480, which had at that time been in service since 1980, so at least 25 years. I forgot to bring the tool box (where I keep the grease tool) on that outing, and went ahead and ran the saw all day, just touching up the chain and fueling it up.
On the 3rd tank of fuel it SMOKED the roller nose in the bar. Coincidence? Could be, as that bar had cut hundreds and hundreds of cords of wood, and I had long lost count of how many chains had worn out on it.
Anyhow, never tried that again, and it was the first and only roller nose I've burned up in over 30 years of cutting.......Cliff
DMShaver
ArboristSite Member
It's a toss. There are so many variables that can affect how long a bar nose sprocket is going to last. What I tell my customers is, if you are going to grease, grease it every tank or two. Otherwise, don't grease it at all. The reasoning behind this: while cutting, the grease can attract dirt and only greasing the nose occasionally does not do much to push out the dirt. Greasing routinely does. On the other hand, a good quality bar oil will lubricate the nose bearings just as well, and because of it's lower viscosity, flushes itself out. The only time that I every grease a bar nose is when I completely degrease it and flush the bearings after dressing.
Country1
ArboristSite Guru
Unless I'm missing something here, none of my Stihl bars have a grease hole....
Country1
ArboristSite Guru
I didn't think my Stihl bars had grease holes...
Straight from the Sthil website:
STIHL Guide Bars
STIHL guide bars are available in two basic versions: STIHL ROLLOMATIC® Ematic™ bars and STIHL DUROMATIC® Ematic™ bars.
A - STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Standard
The standard version of the STIHL ROLLOMATIC® Ematic™ bar consists of three electrically welded metal plates. The middle plate is hollowed out, giving the bar great stability with low weight.
B - STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Light
38% lighter than the standard bar. Made of two steel plates which have been hollowed out and electrically welded together. The open areas have been filled with fiber-reinforced polyamide. Has excellent rigidity for efficient cutting and better balance during limbing operations. Great for arborists.
C - STIHL ROLLOMATIC® Mini
Available in 12”, 14”, and 16” lengths. Use with STIHL PICCO® Micro™ narrow saw chain (PMN) to increase cutting efficiency over PM1 chain by 13%. Makes smooth pruning cuts.
D - STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Super
Unlike the STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Standard, the STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Super consists of a solid and particularly rigid bar with a sprocket nose which can be replaced as a whole. Designed for the most demanding professional jobs, it is primarily used on heavy-duty saws for felling and bucking. Available as wide and narrow nose guide bars.
E - STIHL DUROMATIC® E
A heavy-duty guide bar for chain saws in the middle and high performance ranges. Like the STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Super, the bar is made of extremely strong, solid steel with induction hardened guide rails. The bar nose is reinforced with a hard surface that is also used in aircraft construction.
Heavy duty STIHL guide bars range from 12” to 47” in length and are equipped with STIHL’s exclusive Ematic™ lubrication system.
STIHL guide bars don’t need to be greased.
Bars with a relatively small radius help to reduce the incidence of kickback and are lighter. Those with a larger radius are designed for professionals requiring a higher plunge-cutting performance and longer service life.
http://www.stihldealer.net/categoryinfo-dealer-000714-toplvl-78-catid-78.aspx
Straight from the Sthil website:
STIHL Guide Bars
STIHL guide bars are available in two basic versions: STIHL ROLLOMATIC® Ematic™ bars and STIHL DUROMATIC® Ematic™ bars.
A - STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Standard
The standard version of the STIHL ROLLOMATIC® Ematic™ bar consists of three electrically welded metal plates. The middle plate is hollowed out, giving the bar great stability with low weight.
B - STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Light
38% lighter than the standard bar. Made of two steel plates which have been hollowed out and electrically welded together. The open areas have been filled with fiber-reinforced polyamide. Has excellent rigidity for efficient cutting and better balance during limbing operations. Great for arborists.
C - STIHL ROLLOMATIC® Mini
Available in 12”, 14”, and 16” lengths. Use with STIHL PICCO® Micro™ narrow saw chain (PMN) to increase cutting efficiency over PM1 chain by 13%. Makes smooth pruning cuts.
D - STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Super
Unlike the STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Standard, the STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Super consists of a solid and particularly rigid bar with a sprocket nose which can be replaced as a whole. Designed for the most demanding professional jobs, it is primarily used on heavy-duty saws for felling and bucking. Available as wide and narrow nose guide bars.
E - STIHL DUROMATIC® E
A heavy-duty guide bar for chain saws in the middle and high performance ranges. Like the STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E Super, the bar is made of extremely strong, solid steel with induction hardened guide rails. The bar nose is reinforced with a hard surface that is also used in aircraft construction.
Heavy duty STIHL guide bars range from 12” to 47” in length and are equipped with STIHL’s exclusive Ematic™ lubrication system.
STIHL guide bars don’t need to be greased.
Bars with a relatively small radius help to reduce the incidence of kickback and are lighter. Those with a larger radius are designed for professionals requiring a higher plunge-cutting performance and longer service life.
http://www.stihldealer.net/categoryinfo-dealer-000714-toplvl-78-catid-78.aspx
Last edited:
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
bonker81
ArboristSite Member
Can you please tell me the proper way to check if your chain is getting enough oil? Oh that's right keep the tip near a piece of wood or the ground and watch the oil come off and make a nice dark streak...
bonker81
ArboristSite Member
The drive links of the chain rotate about the center of the sprocket when passing over the tip. The centrifugal force generated by the rotation causes the oil to move from the drive links, towards the teeth and ultimately off the chain. The only oil that would reach the sprocket, by proper oiler function, is when the chain is not spinning and what little oil is left on the chain directly above the sprocket and it is carried there by gravity.
bonker81
ArboristSite Member
Just trying to help you understand what you're attempting to talk about.
I have spent the last 5 years coverd in saw chips, so help me figure out what I am talking about would you please.
wow 5 years! you must be a legend in your own mind!
do tell us more!...dont worry I am just razzing you, just to see what you can take.....all aboard the bus is leaving.
do tell us more!...dont worry I am just razzing you, just to see what you can take.....all aboard the bus is leaving.
wow 5 years! you must be a legend in your own mind!
Hay, i like what i do and i hope to turn the 5 into 50!!
if the industry allows me LOL!!!
things aint lookin good...
Thought I'd tack this on here rather than start yet another sprocket greasing thread...
I was putting some "magic lube" (don't tell Gary) into the grease hole on a brand new GB bar yesterday. Basically, I put a drop or 2 on, then spin the sprocket...rinse, lather, repeat.
When I flipped the bar to get the other side, I saw that the lube I was adding had forced grease out the other hole. Don't know if it's true for other bars, but my GB bars came with a greased sprocket.
So...the "if you start greasing you have to keep greasing" line might not apply after all?
I was putting some "magic lube" (don't tell Gary) into the grease hole on a brand new GB bar yesterday. Basically, I put a drop or 2 on, then spin the sprocket...rinse, lather, repeat.
When I flipped the bar to get the other side, I saw that the lube I was adding had forced grease out the other hole. Don't know if it's true for other bars, but my GB bars came with a greased sprocket.
So...the "if you start greasing you have to keep greasing" line might not apply after all?
they all have a lube of some sort in them.
Unfortunate that it wasent your Mamas sweet juice though.
mmmmm
:monkey:
Fish
Tree Freak
You posted this too? You need to sit out for a while..........
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