Handle style on ax or maul

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woodchuck357

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I have been checking out various fire axes and have been using them for everthing I can think of including splitting and chopping.

It seems the ones with crooked handles don't hit as accurately or with as much force as straight handled ones do. BUT, I have almost always used straight handles and my judgement may be a little off. I have enlisted a few unsupecting neighbors and noticed most choke up more with the crooked handle.

What do you think?:confused:
 
Yes, on the greater maul accuracy with straight handle. Still wondering why. Thin, rubber-coated gloves help.

And ... the handle on my year-old Mueller (austrian) maul has larger diameter approaching the head, and nearing the "bitter end" of the handle. I really like it a lot, and the handle design too. Killer iron.
 
I tend to cut the does foot off all my axes. think it offers a lot more controll..
I am sure they are not designed to use that way but works for me , like every one on here we all modify tools for our own use
 
Traditional axe handles were straight and I generally like them better. But I do have one with a pronounced doe's foot and I kind of like it. I try to snap the axe down by sort of pulling back & up with my stomach muscles just before it hits, arms extended. With that handle profile I can get a really good snap (and good speed) by letting the axe rotate while hooking the handle on the curve at the end.
 
I've been doing a lot of manual wood splitting the last 3 years since I got a new wood boiler. Prior to that I was already an "expert" at splitting wood since I was a kid. LOL! I've come to realize you can't often find what you need in a splitting maul or axe, so you have to improvise. I've done this by changing angles on the cutting edge, shortening or more sharper. You can also cut the back edge off a maul to make it lighter. On mauls I often cut the handle shorter a few inches. And I couldn't get by without at least taping every handle with hockey tape. It makes a small handle easier to grip because of adding more circumference and gives a better friction spot to grasp as you swing. Ice or snow buildup doesn't happen as fast on the taped part either.

StihlRockin'
 
The geometry of axe handles definitely has an effect on accuracy. Here's a good explanation

Advanced Axe Selection
That was an interesting read, but the comments are about felling axes specifically. The requirements for a splitting axe are different - a stubbier, wider head is better to avoid getting it stuck, and accuracy is not as important as speed. It would be reasonable to think the requirements for the handle may be different as well.

Also, while I understand the geometry in the drawings, I'm not sure I buy that the human arms and hands holding an axe are the same as you would get if you rotated the end of the axe handle about a rigid axis as depicted.

I like straight handles better, but there is some reason that the curved ones took over. Perhaps it is because they were being used for different purposes?
 
That was an interesting read, but the comments are about felling axes specifically. The requirements for a splitting axe are different - a stubbier, wider head is better to avoid getting it stuck, and accuracy is not as important as speed. It would be reasonable to think the requirements for the handle may be different as well.

Also, while I understand the geometry in the drawings, I'm not sure I buy that the human arms and hands holding an axe are the same as you would get if you rotated the end of the axe handle about a rigid axis as depicted.

I like straight handles better, but there is some reason that the curved ones took over. Perhaps it is because they were being used for different purposes?

I've never heard a good explanation myself about the rise of the "fawn's foot axe handle". I've heard one experienced axe user liken the fawn's foot to power steering. He sees it as a benefit rather than a liability.

In my opinion, when splitting, accuracy is as important as speed. If the round doesn't split on the first swing then a second swing right into the exact same spot might well split it. If all of your strikes are a half or quarter of a centimeter off from each other then you make a fibrous tangle that's difficult to deal with.

When chopping or felling, inaccuracy means you knock out a smaller or larger plate than you intended. Frustrating, but less frustrating than fouling up the top of a round IMO.
 
I think we are going to go with straight fiberglass handles

with a small does foot at the very end. We may enlarge it on the top side as well to help prevent it slipping out of wet gloved hands.

I don't know why the dude who wrote the article said straight handles for single bit axes aren't available, everybody that offers handles has them.
 
Yeah straight handles are all over the place. Take a look at "House Handle", many of the axe fanatics at Bladeforums order from this guy. His 32 in straight octagon handle seems to be popular.
 
I've never heard a good explanation myself about the rise of the "fawn's foot axe handle". I've heard one experienced axe user liken the fawn's foot to power steering. He sees it as a benefit rather than a liability.

In my opinion, when splitting, accuracy is as important as speed. If the round doesn't split on the first swing then a second swing right into the exact same spot might well split it. If all of your strikes are a half or quarter of a centimeter off from each other then you make a fibrous tangle that's difficult to deal with.

When chopping or felling, inaccuracy means you knock out a smaller or larger plate than you intended. Frustrating, but less frustrating than fouling up the top of a round IMO.
Yeah, that's a good point. I guess what I was thinking is that absolute accuracy - in terms of the exact spot I split it in - is not super critical. But repeatability sure is, because you'll probably need to hit that spot again. And then when you need to split through a crotch you do need to hit the center pretty accurately or it won't split.

But I'll stick with my other comments about needing different head profiles, and possibly different handles.
 
Yeah, that's a good point. I guess what I was thinking is that absolute accuracy - in terms of the exact spot I split it in - is not super critical. But repeatability sure is, because you'll probably need to hit that spot again. And then when you need to split through a crotch you do need to hit the center pretty accurately or it won't split.

But I'll stick with my other comments about needing different head profiles, and possibly different handles.

Yeah there's no doubt the need for different profiles. Some people really like to split using a double bit felling axe and twist the bit right as it enters the round. I've never tried this for fear of wrist injury or having the trailing bit rebound back at me.
 
The flip can be practiced with any splitting tool

It is not hard on wrists and any rebound will be to the side, not back. I use it with my mauls and all axes. I think it makes for a quicker recovery for the next stroke and keeps the tool out of the dirt(read "rocks" around here). It didn't work well, for me, with the fire axes, I think because the handle is higher in the head with less weight above the handle.
 
I do the twist thing sometimes, usually after I get it cracked and want to blast it apart. But I am not as accurate that way and prefer to go for really high axe head speeds. My favorite splitting axe is a 4-1/2 lb single bit and I found the head in the woods behind my old house. I have no idea of it's history other than at one time I could make out a Made in the USA stamp. It's been sharpened a few too many times which has given it a slightly steeper ramp at the edge, and it just works really well. It rarely gets stuck, and I don't find that twisting it is helpful most of the time.
 

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