hard starting log splitter

[CTsplitter]

i have a new log splitter with honda gcv 160la engine. it will start on a couple pulls at 70 degrees, at 50 degrees it takes 7 or 8 pulls, at 30 degrees it takes 30 pulls if it starts at all, below 30 forget about it,
Any ideas will be appreciated.
is this normal for a log splitter?, would magnetic heaters around hyd tank and engine work? should i try a hotter plug or is that a bad idea??
i put in a new plug, good spark, completely disasembled and cleaned out carburator, replaced all gas in tank and lines and carb, good fuel flow. clean air filter, i add seafoam to gas,
once it starts it runs great.

 

[tomtrees58]

oil to cold its gets to thick tom treesopcorn:

 

[tballard]

MINOR shot of starting fluid when it's cold?

 

[mga]

put a light bulb under it the night before you're gonna use it.

gees...everyone rants and raves about how great honda engines are, i'm surprised to see one that is hard to start.

 

[Patrick62]

Been there, done that

That is why I park my splitter inside during the winter!

The problem isn't the engine. It is the hydraulic oil, and the pump.
You can't get it to chug over because of the extra drag.

Changing to transmission fluid will help.

Adding heat will help.

-Pat

 

[mga]

That is why I park my splitter inside during the winter!

The problem isn't the engine. It is the hydraulic oil, and the pump.
You can't get it to chug over because of the extra drag.

Changing to transmission fluid will help.

Adding heat will help.

-Pat

or an electric start.

 

[bullseye13]

I have the exact same problem when its real cold out, i tried starting it when it was 10 degrees out, no go. I shot some carb cleaner in the carb and it fired up.

 

[atlarge54]

My old 8HP Tecumseh is really cold blooded. In winter I use a propane torch to heat the intake manifold, head and intake valve area. It's a pain in the arse but it works.

 

[leon]

log splitter cold weather problems

i have a new log splitter with honda gcv 160la engine. it will start on a couple pulls at 70 degrees, at 50 degrees it takes 7 or 8 pulls, at 30 degrees it takes 30 pulls if it starts at all, below 30 forget about it,
Any ideas will be appreciated.
is this normal for a log splitter?, would magnetic heaters around hyd. tank and engine work? should I try a hotter plug or is that a bad idea??
i put in a new plug, good spark, completely disassembled and cleaned out carburator, replaced all gas in tank and lines and carb, good fuel flow. clean air filter, i add seafoam to gas,
once it starts it runs great.

the magnetic heaters are a waste of money IMO. as they are not very big.


Are you using 93 plus octane gas?

The one thing you do not mention is if you shut the gasoline off to starve the engine of fuel while it is running prior to its starving itself and dieing due to the lack of fuel.


The hydraulic oil tank is a heat sink-it will suck up cold very quickly and it-the cold will go everywhere the oil goes.

The hydraulic oil becomes more dense even though it is rated as a ten weight oil. and the winter rated hydraulic oils are very expensive.

You could run a straight ten weight motor oil and you will still have problems anyway as its viscosity will increase due to the cold.


Even in the fall when it is cooler the system will be forced to work harder as the oil becomes colder.


Cold hydraulic oil, cold engine oil, cold person equals problems during winter use.


The fastest easiest solution to solve your headache is to use a small kerosene or propane salamander to heat up the log splitter and keep it and you warm while operating.


A hotter plug will fire prematurely and cause excess carbon to build up.


Your doing everything right. But I am lazy and do not like problems so I use my salamander a lot, as I stay warmer and more alert too as the cold will dull you senses and slow your reaction time you need to think about that part too.


Been there done that- strained muscle damage from cold splitter; pump broke when I trieds to start the engine on my old splitter, damaged finger from splitter attack incident etc.- it probably knew the end was coming.


I do it, it works, and I have zero problems.

Aviation gas is another option but you shold still shut the fuel off and let it starve itself dead.

Another option is a propane conversion kit for your engine, no gas, no gum no varnish, less fumes, less noise.

leon

 

[CTsplitter]

the magnetic heaters are a waste of money IMO. as they are not very big.


Are you using 93 plus octane gas?

The one thing you do not mention is if you shut the gasoline off to starve the engine of fuel while it is running prior to its starving itself and dieing due to the lack of fuel.


The hydraulic oil tank is a heat sink-it will suck up cold very quickly and it-the cold will go everywhere the oil goes.

The hydraulic oil becomes more dense even though it is rated as a ten weight oil. and the winter rated hydraulic oils are very expensive.

You could run a straight ten weight motor oil and you will still have problems anyway as its viscosity will increase due to the cold.


Even in the fall when it is cooler the system will be forced to work harder as the oil becomes colder.


Cold hydraulic oil, cold engine oil, cold person equals problems during winter use.


The fastest easiest solution to solve your headache is to use a small kerosene or propane salamander to heat up the log splitter and keep it and you warm while operating.


A hotter plug will fire prematurely and cause excess carbon to build up.


Your doing everything right. But I am lazy and do not like problems so I use my salamander a lot, as I stay warmer and more alert too as the cold will dull you senses and slow your reaction time you need to think about that part too.


Been there done that- strained muscle damage from cold splitter; pump broke when I trieds to start the engine on my old splitter, damaged finger from splitter attack incident etc.- it probably knew the end was coming.


I do it, it works, and I have zero problems.

Aviation gas is another option but you shold still shut the fuel off and let it starve itself dead.

Another option is a propane conversion kit for your engine, no gas, no gum no varnish, less fumes, less noise.

leon

I always shut off fuel but not before i kill engine tes 93 octain plus seafoam

 

[Stein]

Mine is belt drive from the motor to the pump and has a spring loaded belt tensioner that you can pull to release tension. (Swisher 22 Ton) Starts in 2-3 pulls at 5*F. Even then you have to EASE on the belt tension for a second or two to get the oil moving. If you drop it, it will kill it. Works great and a worthy addition if you are belt drive. Alas, most are direct coupled to the pump.

 

[wdchuck]

I have found, that under 30*F, my splitter needs some warming up as well.
Add another fan of putting the salamander heater pointed towards it long enough so it pulls like it would on a summer day. Then the heater is turned off, and the splitter gets towed to the wood pile, while its running.

Most all of my equipment now gets some warmth before I start it, especially if it contains hydraulic oil. The difference is worth the expense to use a heater of some kind.

 

[thejdman04]

My briggs is the same either warm it up witha torpedo heater or small shot of starting fluid.

 

[Mntn Man]

I have had a lot less starting issues after changing to 10w 30 oil in the winter. The manual says you can use 5 or 10w 30 in the winter and the only issue may be a little oil consumption. I have not experienced this though. You can switch to ATF or Hydraulic 32 also, it is thinner. I have a can of aviation hydraulic oil at work and you don't even want to know what it costs. We use it in our tommy gate and it has improved cycle time 4-500 % on that in the winter.

 

[Photog95]

Simple....Split all your wood before it gets too cold. Right now if I cut, anything that needs to be split goes in a pile until it gets warm enough to start the splitter.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Currently I have my FILs splitter. We've had no trouble starting it in any weather. It pulls a bit stiff.....but it does start.

FWIW

Dan

 

[CRThomas]

Electric

I do not have your problem I changed to electric and 3 point for traveling. The tractor has glow plugs and the electric just flip the switch. I went with electric it is the greatest. I want to thank Doug at LogSplitters for all his help for getting me out of the one tract thought. Later

 

[smokinj]

oil to cold its gets to thick tom treesopcorn:

Sure could be I have 2 of theses motors and both start first pull everytime....

 

[Iron man]

If a shot of starter fluid gets it to fire no prob Id look for vacuum leaks and think about replacing the carb since you've already tried to fix it.If not it could be a spark problem so removing the tin and looking for chewed wiring is what Id do.Also doing a cylinder pressure test could turn up something.My mower had a blown head gasket because the key way sheered advancing the timing too much.Darn pieces of wood in the grass I don't know who keeps leaving them there.:rolleyes2:

 

[runandjump]

Dumb question....... Does the choke close all the way? My $.02