Help Identifing a log splitter hydraulic pump and other parts

[VW Splitter]

So I just bought this homemade splitter because I needed it like I need a hole in my head. Wasn't looking for a splitter, but I came across this, and I guess I just needed to rescue it from the weather and trees growing up thru it. It has been setting for 20 years, I'm guessing. I sort of have it running ( as long as you are squirting gasoline in the carb ) and looks like it may be as slow as Christmas. Has a 42" long cylinder. The ?HP Briggs & Stratton engine has a gear reduction gismo on the output shaft. I'm wondering if I can remove it and hook the engine straight up to the pump? The only identification on the pump is a partial sticker that says Vickers Inc. Troy MI. Can the pump handle the extra RPMs? Wondering if the ?HP engine can handle the pump without the gear reduction gismo? The B&S dealer couldn't tell me how many HP the engine is. They did say it was 14 cubic in. The hydraulic valve I believe is a Gresen 2701. Any help or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
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[kevin j]

it appears to be a Vickers V series vane pump. They had a few sizes of housings and then various vane and ring cartridge assembly that would go inside of housing to get different pump displacements. Most of them were rated at 1200 RPM because that was a common electric motor speed for industrial equipment with about 2000 RPM Max. The later ones could go I think up to 3000 RPM. The earlier ones were also pressure limited to about 2000 PSI. later ones if they had the smaller cartridge sizes for their housing size were rated up to 3000 PSI if they had the largest cartridge in their housing size than they were de rated on pressure

more importantly it's a single stage pump, so a pump large enough to give you speed will stall the engine at high load pressure The pump small enough for the engine to be able to turn it at full pressure is going to give you terribly slow speed. I would get it running on the existing system but I wouldn't put much effort into the pump Depending on if you keep the splitter or not look at spending 150 bucks and put on a two-stage one later on

 

[muddstopper]

I cant add anything about the pump that Kevin hasnt already said. I like the machine tho. The 42 in stroke would work good for someone using a OWB and needing long splits. I would toss the old engine and pump and get a Predator 6 hp engine and 11gpm two stage pump and put that machine to work. You can always use stroke limiters to reduce the stroke to a more usable length

I have in the past used the vicker vane pumps on some of my homemade wood splitters. I have a 14gpm pump setting on the shelf I used to have mounted to a 25hp engine. With a 24in stroke 4in bore cyl, I had pretty decent cycle times. I eventually got tired of the overheating oil and swapped the pump for a 28gpm 2stage pump and a 5in bore cyl.

 

[dave_dj1]

I think I would do as muddstopper says except I might be inclined to go to the next size up for motor and pump, 8hp and 13-16 gpm two stage pump
Is it 42" stroke or just 42" long cylinder? It's hard to tell in the picture but it looks like a well built machine. Have fun with it.
What is the parking brake handle for?

 

[VW Splitter]

it appears to be a Vickers V series vane pump. They had a few sizes of housings and then various vane and ring cartridge assembly that would go inside of housing to get different pump displacements. Most of them were rated at 1200 RPM because that was a common electric motor speed for industrial equipment with about 2000 RPM Max. The later ones could go I think up to 3000 RPM. The earlier ones were also pressure limited to about 2000 PSI. later ones if they had the smaller cartridge sizes for their housing size were rated up to 3000 PSI if they had the largest cartridge in their housing size than they were de rated on pressure

more importantly it's a single stage pump, so a pump large enough to give you speed will stall the engine at high load pressure The pump small enough for the engine to be able to turn it at full pressure is going to give you terribly slow speed. I would get it running on the existing system but I wouldn't put much effort into the pump Depending on if you keep the splitter or not look at spending 150 bucks and put on a two-stage one later on

Thanks for identifying the pump. I was afraid it might be a single stage pump. I need to rebuild the carb and get the engine running on it's own, and see what the cycle time is. I'm guessing 30 sec or more, which would be unacceptable. I like your idea of a new pump.

 

[VW Splitter]

I cant add anything about the pump that Kevin hasnt already said. I like the machine tho. The 42 in stroke would work good for someone using a OWB and needing long splits. I would toss the old engine and pump and get a Predator 6 hp engine and 11gpm two stage pump and put that machine to work. You can always use stroke limiters to reduce the stroke to a more usable length.


My son in law in VA. has a out door wood burner with a large apatite for wood. When I saw the splitter I was thinking of him. I may try a new 2 stage pump with the existing engine first.

 

[VW Splitter]

[] [QUOTE="dave_dj1, post: 6340071, member: 29907"[ ]I think I would do as muddstopper says except I might be inclined to go to the next size up for motor and pump, 8hp and 13-16 gpm two stage pump
Is it 42" stroke or just 42" long cylinder? It's hard to tell in the picture but it looks like a well built machine. Have fun with it.
What is the parking brake handle for?[/QUOTE]


I am measuring 42" from the push plate to the wedge, I haven't ran it out a full stroke yet. It does look good from a distance, but it has some design flaws. It has a good looking push plate but it's welded to the cylinder. Will be real trouble if the cylinder ever needs repair. The back of the cylinder is bolted on. Odd, but the metal pipe and fittings are welded to the cylinder also. The return line hose/pipe, runs to the rear of the cylinder then makes a U turn with some welded fittings, then goes to the front of the cylinder with some more of those welded fittings. Extra heat! It's gonna need a new wedge. The one on it is a little twisted, probably not a harden steel. It is some kind of military axel, with springs that wind around the axel, that has brakes on it. The brakes do work.

 

[nighthunter]

Can someone plz help me decide so I got a great deal on a honda 6.5hp engine so was wondering if it would be underpowered with a two stage 8 gpm pump . The shop that suppling the pump recommend a 6gpm pump with a short stroke ram . I would be splitting all hardwood with lots of knots but the maximum length of the logs would be around 10 inches . The pumps are really expensive so don't want to get the wrong pump. Thanks for the responses in advance and greetings from Ireland

 

[NSMaple1]

I think an 11gpm pump & 6.5 HP engine is a pretty popular combo. That's what mine is.

 

[nighthunter]

I think an 11gpm pump & 6.5 HP engine is a pretty popular combo. That's what mine is.

Thanks for the reply
What's is it like in heavy knotted hardwood

 

[muddstopper]

Thanks for the reply
What's is it like in heavy knotted hardwood

Speed and power is relative to the bore of the cylinder. The bigger the bore, the more power it will have, and the slower it will be.

 

[muddstopper]

Thanks for identifying the pump. I was afraid it might be a single stage pump. I need to rebuild the carb and get the engine running on it's own, and see what the cycle time is. I'm guessing 30 sec or more, which would be unacceptable. I like your idea of a new pump.

If you do decide to use the old engine, you will most likely have to get rid of the gear reduction. Pumps flow is determined by the displacement of the pump and the rpms of the engine pulling the pump. When you buy a pump, it will be rated at X gpm @ X rpms. Usually the 2 stage pumps require around 3000rpms to reach full flow. If the gear reduction on your engine is 2:1 your engine could be turning 3000rpms, but the output shaft would be turning 1500rpms. This would make a 11 gpm pump only put out 5.5gpm. Those little 6.5 predator (Honda clones),engines are usually on sale for $99 at Harbor Freight, it would cost you that much to replace the carb on your briggs. I believe they wanted $80 for the ethanol infected briggs carb on my tiller, and I would still have a worn out engine. The predator just made more since.

 

[NSMaple1]

Thanks for the reply
What's is it like in heavy knotted hardwood

It shifts down & grunts - but usually gets through.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

11gpm would be awful slow. Do the math and shoot for at least 8-10 sec cycle.

My processor runs a 30gpm pump and has about 5 sec cycle, I wouldn't mind if it was quicker. Time is $$.

 

[kevin j]

OK the welded piping to the closed end of the cylinder is fairly common and I expect there were hoses at that point and someone has extended that with the section of pipe toward the front and then hook the hose on. If that is true I would get rid of that pipe because it's probably schedule 40. Unless it's thick wall pipe I wouldn't trust it. If you keep the pipe, add some kind of a support bracket at the front where the hoses connect to dampen vibration because I suspect it is going to crack back at the fitting at the rear end of a cylinder

 

[muddstopper]

Kevinj, been planning on giving you a call. I have a stupid hyd design, (my ideal) I want to discuss.

 

[kevin j]

Kevinj, been planning on giving you a call. I have a stupid hyd design, (my ideal) I want to discuss.

tomorrow should be good. Been in jury duty all last week and all of today but that's done. your big splitter idea is been pretty well thought out so far so I think you're doing good now I'm curious what the next idea is

 

[muddstopper]

IF, I decide to build it, I'll start a thread. I just have a bunch of junk laying around and thinking about making use of it.

 

[ken morgan]

thats an old school briggs 14000- series makes it a honest to god 8 hp....not an 8 horsepower when the chinese stars and gods align. the carb is an easy rebuild make sure you pull the needle valve out from the bowl prior to taking it apart to keep from fing it up. swap out the coil and points system with a replacement magentron coil and it will be much easier to start and you will not have to mess with the points that are under the flywheel. that engine BTW is between 40 and 28 years old. parts are still available from briggs and if you don't want it I will buy it for parts. you will need to box it though to ship it to me.

 

[VW Splitter]

thats an old school briggs 14000- series makes it a honest to god 8 hp....not an 8 horsepower when the chinese stars and gods align. the carb is an easy rebuild make sure you pull the needle valve out from the bowl prior to taking it apart to keep from fing it up. swap out the coil and points system with a replacement magentron coil and it will be much easier to start and you will not have to mess with the points that are under the flywheel. that engine BTW is between 40 and 28 years old. parts are still available from briggs and if you don't want it I will buy it for parts. you will need to box it though to ship it to me.

I really appreciate the words of wisdom on this site. Kevin J identified the pump, I was at a total loss at what kind of pump I had. And now Ken has give me a HP rating on the engine. The Briggs and Stratton dealer couldn't give me a HP rating on it. I was debating on getting the B&S going or buying the Chinese knock off. I'm going to give the B&S a shot at it. All I need is a carb kit. That old Briggs is going to look better on that old rusty splitter than a shiny new Chinese engine. I may post again when I get it going. Thanks