HELP ME......... Stihl 009 for Dummies
- Thread starter david newbie
- Start date
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Here'w my questions/ problems. got this today in non running condition, started it with prime. so I (silly me) decided to open it up and rebuild the carb. This may be a can of worms for a newbie like me. first of all, what's that nipple for in the second picture, nothing was attached to it? Took off the handle to disconnect the throttle lever, and now I can't figure out how that little spring on the trigger is supposed to attach , especially the longish end of that wire spring. AND.......< when I lifted the carb out, there was a loose nut laying underneath it! What the heck is that for? Im gonna order a carb kit, and hopefully by the time it arrives, you smart guys will have it all fixed for me. Pretty nice clean little saw, and feels like it has decent compression. Thank you and please
This one has everyone stumped?
Supercharged86
ArboristSite Operative
As for the throttle spring, not sure, never had one of these. But the nipple in the air box might be a pulse line for the carb pump diaphragm. Does that carb have two male fittings, one for the fuel inlet and then a second one. If so, that's why she won't run on her own.
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Carb just has one port for the fuel and lit. No impulse line port
Supercharged86
ArboristSite Operative
Ok. Just found this video on YouTube, . I see a hose line running from that nipple over to the right side of the air box. Perhaps the oil feed line?
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Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
thanks! will investigate that further
StihlSolo
Mechanically inclined
"first of all, what's that nipple for in the second picture, nothing was attached to it?"
It's the tank vent outlet. Hose goes from that outlet to and through a hole in the bottom of carb box. See the modified first photo - big red line shows the hose routing. There should be a foam block underneath a shiny metal cover on the PTO side of the saw, metal cover is held on by a crankcase bolt. That vent hose ends up going into that foam block.
There is no impulse line on the 009, impulse vents from crankcase through a hole in the reed valve plate. Don't obstruct this hole. The oil supply line on a 009 is all inside the oil tank.
"when I lifted the carb out, there was a loose nut laying underneath it! What the heck is that for?"
The nut goes onto the screw holding the top handle in place. See second photo. There's a hole in the side of the carb box that the screw goes through. Without the nut in place the screw may be gone.
"...how that little spring on the trigger is supposed to attach , especially the longish end of that wire spring."
The squared end wraps around the safety lever's "L" shaped prong. The curved end goes underneath the handle black top cover. Hold the safety lever up as you push that cover back down in place, it helps to get that curved end under the cover.
Also, you should also get a new gasket to replace the one between the carb bottom and reed valve plate top.
It's the tank vent outlet. Hose goes from that outlet to and through a hole in the bottom of carb box. See the modified first photo - big red line shows the hose routing. There should be a foam block underneath a shiny metal cover on the PTO side of the saw, metal cover is held on by a crankcase bolt. That vent hose ends up going into that foam block.
There is no impulse line on the 009, impulse vents from crankcase through a hole in the reed valve plate. Don't obstruct this hole. The oil supply line on a 009 is all inside the oil tank.
"when I lifted the carb out, there was a loose nut laying underneath it! What the heck is that for?"
The nut goes onto the screw holding the top handle in place. See second photo. There's a hole in the side of the carb box that the screw goes through. Without the nut in place the screw may be gone.
"...how that little spring on the trigger is supposed to attach , especially the longish end of that wire spring."
The squared end wraps around the safety lever's "L" shaped prong. The curved end goes underneath the handle black top cover. Hold the safety lever up as you push that cover back down in place, it helps to get that curved end under the cover.
Also, you should also get a new gasket to replace the one between the carb bottom and reed valve plate top.
wow! thanks for all the help, exactly what I needed
Supercharged86
ArboristSite Operative
Glad we got that mystery solved. [emoji106] Gave it the O'l college try though, lol.
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IPL will explain everything, from the correct carb, kit, filters, the the part order for the back handle.
Supercharged86
ArboristSite Operative
The only one I could find wasn't very definitive on the tank vent nipple.
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remind me what IPL is and how I find that? thanks for your help. David
Illustrated Parts List. Somewhere on this site, there is a catalogue of every Stihl model. Of course, the search starts with google. Find the pdf and print it......or back to the site often. Good Luck.
Canyon Angler
Addicted to ArboristSite
Check the "Beg for Manuals" thread here on the site and if no luck, post up request there....
Stihl used 5 different carb setups on the 009 during its production years. The F with H and L adjustment screws, two versions of the L/WA99B, one with L adjustment only and one with H and L adjustment. And two versions of the M/WT99A. One with L adjustment only and one with H and L adjustment.
Hopefully, the kit you ordered will have all or any of the diaphragms, needle, etc, needed for a rebuild. Most kits do. Post a pic of the carb if you can. You should be able with close examination, find numbers stamped on or etched on the carb body. You may need to clean it up to find them. Should be one of those listed above. Good luck. OT
Compressed AIR to clean carb might nip you in the arse. pruceed wit foresight
I agree. But I said nothing about using compressed air to clean.
thanks, I already ordered a kit, so I hope I got the correct one. And ,yes, I've already wrecked a 365 carb using compressed air!
I was not intending to come off that way. Reading between the lines the OP appears to be in the learning stage (S) and No one has cautioned OP on dangers of compressed air in the wrong places. Your post was very informative (TO ME AS WELL) and my intent was/is to add to your post to avoid "I didn't know better". How many times does a nubee use starting fluid or straight gas to prime/start/check to see if saw will hit or try to run.
