Help Removing Clutch

[Buffco]

Hello all.

I have an Echo CS3450. Lately, the oil has not been emptying nearly as fast as the fuel. As a result, I've had a time with chain stretching and bar wear.

I want to remove the oiler and check to see if there are any blockages, dirt, etc.. Problem is, I have no idea how to remove the clutch (the auto oiler is under the clutch) It's reverse threaded, I know that much. Is there any secret to keeping the flywheel stationary so I can remove the clutch? Any special tool I need?

Thanks in advance.

Bryant

 

[blsnelling]

You'll need a piston stop.

 

[stihlboy]

dont use rope!! i found this out the fun way

 

[sawjo]

Remove sparkplug and peek into cylinder, turn crank in the direction you'll be removing clutch nut (clockwise). When piston just passes exhaust port, stop and carefully feed some starter cord rope into jug with needle nose pliers until you can't get anymore in there. This will make for a "soft" piston stop. If it looks like a special socket to remove cluth nut, then fab one from a cheap socket and a dremel with a mini carbon fiber cut off wheel. Make sure you remove the starter side (flywheel) cover before wrenching - if you leave it on you can wind things up tight on that side and break stuff:bang:

 

[willsaw4beer]

dont use rope!! i found this out the fun way

What's wrong with rope? Always worked for me.

 

[Buffco]

Boy, you guys are fast. Thanks! Gonna try the "soft" piston stop now....

 

[Jtheo]

Make sure you remove the starter side (flywheel) cover before wrenching - if you leave it on you can wind things up tight on that side and break stuff:bang:

Help me understand how this works. I have not been removing the starter cover when I remove a clutch. Thanks

 

[sawjo]

Help me understand how this works. I have not been removing the starter cover when I remove a clutch. Thanks

I have noticed that sometimes when you are removing or installing the clutch nut you can cause the starter side to become tight against the starter rope and pull handle. Because the "rope trick piston stop" will have a little slop before it locks the piston, you can get it tight enough that you can snap starter dogs, etc when applying torque on the clutch side. Best to just remove the starter side cover to avoid this.

 

[stihlboy]

What's wrong with rope? Always worked for me.

ask blsnelling....

 

[Buffco]

Thanks again, guys. I have the clutch removed, and the oiler is in my hands.

Now, I need to figure the oiler out. It seems there is a bolt at the top of the gear that holds a compressed spring down. Is this an adjustment, I wonder?

 

[redunshee]

What's wrong with rope? Always worked for me.

I also use rope but like previous post, I make sure piston is above ports. Learned the hard way.

 

[blsnelling]

dont use rope!! i found this out the fun way

What's wrong with rope? Always worked for me.

ask blsnelling....

I also use rope but like previous post, I make sure piston is above ports. Learned the hard way.

Rope works fine 95% of the time. It's only on weaker built non-professional saws that it's an issue. Only use enough to stop the piston. You don't want to stuff the cylinder full and have the piston way down on the bore. That's the only thing that cause me problems on the 180.

You don't need to remove the recoil on all models either. Most Stihls can be turned backwards. Most Huskies cannot. The recoil mechanism ratches on Huskies and will catch in reverse.

 

[stihlboy]

i may have had a similar experience with the 170:monkey:

 

[blsnelling]

i may have had a similar experience with the 170:monkey:

Confession's good for the sole, lol The problem with using rope in the 170/180 is getting too much in there and having the piston too far from TDC. Using the correct piston stop keeps the piston high in the bore, and seems to solve the problem. THall even demonstrated it on video. The rod will not bend if the piston is kept high in the bore, as the piston stop does. Using the proper amount of rope would net the same affect, it's just difficult to know if you have it right. Play it safe and use a piston stop on the 170/180/210/230 and what ever other models have the flat steel rods, not forged like all the pro saws.

 

[gwiley]

A piston stop is cheap - very cheap. There really isn't any good reason to not use one.

 

[Buffco]

Where do you get piston stops, and how are they inserted in the cylinder?

 

[stihlboy]

baileys or dealer.. they screw into sparkplug hole

 

[lone wolf]

no one here removes them with an airgun?

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=10610&catID=
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=10615&catID=
Air gun is my first choice.
Piston stop is my second choice.
The rope would be for doing field repairs.
Regards
Gregg

 

[Eric Modell]

I thought the AS advice was to use rope, because the piston stop could damage the piston.