Helping a family member pick out a new saw

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I wonder if anyone from Norway seen what a 025 can do :D




It's kinda like apples and oranges :msp_biggrin:

My little 025 says "Made in USA" all over it. Of course, like everyone else, they do have a production facility in China
 
Both. I bought the 025 back in the 90's, the 2000 we've had for a few months, used mostly
for limbing. We do use a hydraulic splitter. The wood is mostly oak and hedge, with some
silver maple, mulberry, and walnut mixed in. The 025 has been more that adequate for what
we do. Sometimes the 18" bar requires a little imagination to accomplish the job. We heat
exclusively with wood.

Nice stacks with the little saws!!

If you like that 2000, keep your peepers open for an s25cva. Looks almost like the 2000, but is *loads* stronger. Just a little bigger, but not really noticable in your hand. I cut up a ton of oak last week with mine and only grudingly switched to my 3400 for the last few really large trunk cuts. Weighs almost the same as yours, has some basic antivibe to it and they just rip. They were the arborist climber pro saw back in the day. Pulls that 16" buried in oak. I use mine to mark the larger logs as well, just because it has that 16 on it, easy to lay it out, touch maker a little cut mark, move to the next one, then come back and buck with the larger saw. I had no idea about them until I joined this site, picked up a junker for ten bucks and got it running and zoobalicious! Best dang little saw evah, dollars per cutability.
 
Nice stacks with the little saws!!

If you like that 2000, keep your peepers open for an s25cva. Looks almost like the 2000, but is *loads* stronger. Just a little bigger, but not really noticable in your hand. I cut up a ton of oak last week with mine and only grudingly switched to my 3400 for the last few really large trunk cuts. Weighs almost the same as yours, has some basic antivibe to it and they just rip. They were the arborist climber pro saw back in the day. Pulls that 16" buried in oak. I use mine to mark the larger logs as well, just because it has that 16 on it, easy to lay it out, touch maker a little cut mark, move to the next one, then come back and buck with the larger saw. I had no idea about them until I joined this site, picked up a junker for ten bucks and got it running and zoobalicious! Best dang little saw evah, dollars per cutability.

Keep 'em clean, keep 'em sharp. They'll cut anything the big saws will cut, though it may take a while longer.
I've got an S25CVA and a 25D. Waiting on time and a couple parts to put them to work. Momma runs the 2000, and I've
got a few other top-handles that I've managed to resurrect. I've got a 12" b/c for the S25.
 
Forgive me if this is a stupid question but how can a 50cc saw out run a 56cc saw?

Compression, porting, ignition timing, power to weight ratio, RPM redline, point in the RPM range where it reaches peak power, the difference between peak and non-peak power throughout the RPM range...

What is different about the engine on the 261 to make it better?

It is made to be rebuilt.

And how do you tell which of the Stihls are the pro models? Is it the models with 1 at the end?

I wish I knew. I look at their web page, or this site for older models.

HF
 
Forgive me if this is a stupid question but how can a 50cc saw out run a 56cc saw? What is different about the engine on the 261 to make it better?

And how do you tell which of the Stihls are the pro models? Is it the models with 1 at the end?

I don't know stihls much at all, but to see what are the better models just read the site, you'll see what gets talked up and is worth keeping or looking for. The stihl guys really like those 261s, so there must be a variety of reasons for that.

Pro saws, very broadly speaking, have more robust construction, full metal cases, can handle higher rpms, more torque, etc. More ponies on the trail per lb of weight basically, plus can handle day to day full time use better.

This is not to disparage saws that aren't full bore "pro", regular home owner grade saws put cubic miles of wood on the ground every year, just what lasts longer with regular hard use and is easier to tote in your hands all day long making a paycheck.. There are saws can slap ten cord a year down for you year after year, or you can pay some more moolah and have one can do ten cord a day (whatever, you know what I am saying). A lb or two lighter and a horsepower more adds up at the end of the day for those guys.

There's displacement size, then what you do *with* that displacement, kinda sorta like..hmmm..old detroit stock five liter pushrod engine vs modern italian five liter supercar engine. Both have enough power to move ya down the road, similar displacement, but......one has "more" plenty, ha!
 
Keep 'em clean, keep 'em sharp. They'll cut anything the big saws will cut, though it may take a while longer.
I've got an S25CVA and a 25D. Waiting on time and a couple parts to put them to work. Momma runs the 2000, and I've
got a few other top-handles that I've managed to resurrect. I've got a 12" b/c for the S25.

Col man, have fun!
 
Thanks for the help.

I don't know if I should start a new thread or not but I have been kind of looking for a saw on and off, not really committed for sure. But while searching for saws, I found a Stihl MS361 with a 25" bar for sale on craigslist and he is asking $475. The saw looks like it is in really good condition. The ad says it is in great condition physically and mechanically. Do they not make this saw anymore? What was it replaced by? I take it this is a pro saw.

Stihl MS361 25" Chain Saw
 
Thanks for the help.

I don't know if I should start a new thread or not but I have been kind of looking for a saw on and off, not really committed for sure. But while searching for saws, I found a Stihl MS361 with a 25" bar for sale on craigslist and he is asking $475. The saw looks like it is in really good condition. The ad says it is in great condition physically and mechanically. Do they not make this saw anymore? What was it replaced by? I take it this is a pro saw.

Stihl MS361 25" Chain Saw

Replaced by the 362. I think most like the 361 better. It is a favorite in it's class and has a strong following. And yes it is a pro saw.
 
All saws mentioned are good choices.

Recommend using a shorter bar than any manufacturer suggests...and a sharp chain. :rock:
 
I still have not made up my mind yet. I have been looking locally on craigslist and not much is showing up. It would be nice to see the saws in person.

I think I am going to ditch the ms362 idea just because the size is so close to out current saw. I have been kind of looking at either a Stihl ms440 magnum or a Makita 6401. I have found an ms440 with full wrap handle, 28in bar and 2 chains for $471 but still has four days to go. I have also found a Makita 6401 with a 20in bar for $490. Both are used.

Out of those two, which would be the better option?
 
Thanks for the help.

I don't know if I should start a new thread or not but I have been kind of looking for a saw on and off, not really committed for sure. But while searching for saws, I found a Stihl MS361 with a 25" bar for sale on craigslist and he is asking $475. The saw looks like it is in really good condition. The ad says it is in great condition physically and mechanically. Do they not make this saw anymore? What was it replaced by? I take it this is a pro saw.

Stihl MS361 25" Chain Saw

A 25" bar is generally not a good idea on a 60cc saw - it can be used in a pinch though.
 
A 25" bar is generally not a good idea on a 60cc saw - it can be used in a pinch though.

I don't understand that, I see people on here saying you can run a 25" bar on a 361 or 362 on occasion all the time. I realize it would not be good to run that all the time but 98% of the time, I would be using a 20" bar.
 
I don't understand that, I see people on here saying you can run a 25" bar on a 361 or 362 on occasion all the time. I realize it would not be good to run that all the time but 98% of the time, I would be using a 20" bar.

Don't know why you don't understand that, as you just agreed with what SawTroll was saying. It can be used in a pinch, meaning on occasion and not the majority. That's all.

Stick with a 20" for the 60cc saw and you will be happier for it.
 
I agreed with the guys above, I would never run over a 20" bar on my 361. I currently run an 18" on it with a 20" sometimes. 24" bars are for 70cc saws. can you run a 24 on a 361 YES should you run a 24 on a 361 NO.

You can cut a very large tree with a 20" bar if your patient.
 
Ok, what about running a 24in bar on a Makita 6401?

I am thinking about getting the Makita 6401 and putting a BB kit on it later.
 
Forgive me but what exactly is a BB kit, what does it consist of and where do you buy them?
 
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