Hi, Homelite Blue XL-12 Saw, Looking for some information I'd like to rehab it.

[JOE.G]

Hi, I pulled a Old Homelite XL-12 Blue saw out of the Barn, It has been sitting for about 20 Years and appears to be all there and in great shape. The spark plug is a Champion TJ-8J its a stubby plug with a pin in the middle. I'd like to get it up and running , So any idea where I can get a some what period correct Bar and Chain? Air filter and plug? Any tips on getting it tuned up ? I am not sure on the Fuel mixture but I am thinking 32:1 as I found some oil with it. Can I use My 50:1 Stihl ultra mix? Any help would be great, Ser # is 1848110 Thanks

PS this was a Family saw that was used for many years, But the guys who used it are no longer around.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Just picked up one as well. Look on ebay for vintage bars. I recommend staying with points and condenser. You get better spark and easy to service. Clean and use the orig plug unless it's damaged. You may need to rebuild the carb - easy build, and fuel line may need replaced. I use 50:1 synthetic with REC 90 fuel in all my saws from 1953 to present. Start with carb needles out 1 turn from the bottom. I like to run a little rich on the high side - make sure you get a good 4 stroke sound out of the wood. Good luck and wear ear protection!

 

[clint53]

I have 3 of them and run 32:1 mix.
The air filter can be found on Amazon or Ebay.
Here is more info.
http://acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/e...a17d735d551f0f1e88256b78005f6a7b?OpenDocument
Also, if the chain oiler doesn't work, you need to replace the O-ring. Simple 2 minute fix once you get the O-ring. Automotive stores will have them. Just take the old one with you.
Loosen the nut under the oiler button and be careful not to lose the spring when you take the shaft out. One small O-ring on the shaft.

 

[JOE.G]

Any tips on adjusting and cleaning the points? I have a New OEM plug coming , I honestly have not looked at the carb, Is there a hi and low screw? Are they marked? Start at 1 turn out on both?
I believe the oiler works, Fuel line I am not sure of, is there a filter in the tank? I have no plans to really use this at least not on a regular basis but it is in great shape and would like to make it run and function.

I Do see the filter on E Bay, I have to check on the carb but are the rebuild kits still out there?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Two screws (jets) will be close to each other on the carb body . They are labeled L and H but the one closest to the intake is low setting.
Honestly if it hasn't been used in 20 years the carburetor should be rebuilt, which is super simple. Remember that the carb is aluminum and the screws are steel so be gentle when seating them or you'll plow through the tiny holes inside the carburetor .
You can clean the contacts on the points with fine Emory cloth or a jeweler's file then spray the points box out with electrical cleaner. Understand that you have to remove the flywheel to access the points.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Set the point gap with the cam on the highest point. The spark occurs when the points open. Setting the points gap wider will advance the timing.
I also like to flatten the carb flange that mounts to the intake so there is no air leakage. I use 220 self adhesive sandpaper mounted to a thick piece of glass and drag the flange over it until there are no high spots that normally occur around the mounting holes.

 

[JOE.G]

So I take the side cover off, Use puller and pop flywheel, Do I put piston at TSC or do I turn untill points are openest their widest? I want .015 gap correct?

 

[buzz sawyer]

Position the crank so the points are at widest gap - the cam lobe will be directly under the points rubbing block. I usually use 0.017" but + or - .001 won't make a lot of difference. Wider will advance the timing, closer will retard timing. There should be a felt pad that rubs on the cam - I like to put a drop or two of oil on it.

 

[JOE.G]

The pullers I have would not work to get flywhel off, I do have really strong spark so maybe I can skip that for now. Any tips on cleaning and removing the carb on this saw? Tips on replacing the fuel line on it? I don't want to mess anything up. I am not able to get it to fire even with putting a little fuel directly in cylinder.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I just replaced the line on one. I found some tygon line I had that was a tight fit in the tank grommet and snug into the carb chamber without the grommet - so it wasn't needed. I can get the size tomorrow. The fuel inlet on the carb was large so the tygon was a good fit. Like many lines, I had to cut about 1.5" on an angle to get enough into the tank to grab it with needle nose and pull it through. A little silicone grease helps. The biggest problem with removing the carb was the left bolt - a little difficult to get under the throttle linkage. I just back it out until the carb is free and leave while I remove the carb. If you have spark, compression, and fuel, it should fire. Are you sure it's not flooded? fwiw, the one I have had good spark and fired right up with a prime.

 

[JOE.G]

Does the fuel line run in towards the bottom of the tank? I can't see the line when looking though the cap. I did not look closely when I had the right side cover off, I'll probably have to pull it again. Is there a filter or anything I should be able to see? I am assuming so, Can I use any of the fuel filters from my new saws? I have a bunch on the shelf. I want to see if it is getting fuel, This saw never had ethanol gas in it but has set empty for many years. I did try to flush the tank out the best I could.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Does the fuel line run in towards the bottom of the tank? I can't see the line when looking though the cap. I did not look closely when I had the right side cover off, I'll probably have to pull it again. Is there a filter or anything I should be able to see? I am assuming so, Can I use any of the fuel filters from my new saws? I have a bunch on the shelf. I want to see if it is getting fuel, This saw never had ethanol gas in it but has set empty for many years. I did try to flush the tank out the best I could.

Yes, it runs in on the right side and down to about the bottom/middle. You should be able to see it near the bottom. Pull the new line in enough to pull it out through the opening and install the filter, then pull it back until the filter just reaches the bottom of the tank. Any filter that fits the line should be fine.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Does the fuel line run in towards the bottom of the tank? I can't see the line when looking though the cap. I did not look closely when I had the right side cover off, I'll probably have to pull it again. Is there a filter or anything I should be able to see? I am assuming so, Can I use any of the fuel filters from my new saws? I have a bunch on the shelf. I want to see if it is getting fuel, This saw never had ethanol gas in it but has set empty for many years. I did try to flush the tank out the best I could.

There is a " Beg for Manuals " thread . You should definitely ask for an IPL it would help you tremendously.

 

[JOE.G]

I am having a hard time getting the carb off its a tight place, The fuel line is rubber off the carb and then goes to copper all the way into the tank I believe, I am not seeing a Line in the tank only a felt like material on the side. The piston looks good as does the cylinder. I have nice spark when I pull it over but I am not getting it fire even with fuel sprayed into the cylinder or in the carb. I have not checked compression but it feels good pulling it.

 

[buzz sawyer]

You have an oldie. The felt in the tank is the fuel filter. The copper line goes to a solid fitting on the side of the tank. I will look to see if I have any more info on it. I don't know why it won't fire unless it's flooded or compression is really low.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I am having a hard time getting the carb off its a tight place, The fuel line is rubber off the carb and then goes to copper all the way into the tank I believe, I am not seeing a Line in the tank only a felt like material on the side. The piston looks good as does the cylinder. I have nice spark when I pull it over but I am not getting it fire even with fuel sprayed into the cylinder or in the carb. I have not checked compression but it feels good pulling it.

I sent you a private message.

 

[JOE.G]

I am trying to clean out the tank the best I can, there appears to be a little gunk on the bottom but nothing crazy, Should the compression specs be in the manual? I am not sure why I do not getting even a pop out of it.

 

[cbfarmall]

The thing I have encountered twice with the felt filter is the tank may look OK thru the filler opening but there was corrosion behind the filter and in the tank outlet that gets sucked up into the carb. The only way to deal with this is to split the tank and sandblast it clean. I caught hell resealing the tank. Ended up cutting a gasket despite Homelite's insistence that you only need a good sealer.

You may not have this problem and will find out soon enough if there is or isn't crap in the carb inlet screen.

 

[cbfarmall]

I am trying to clean out the tank the best I can, there appears to be a little gunk on the bottom but nothing crazy, Should the compression specs be in the manual? I am not sure why I do not getting even a pop out of it.

You really ought to pull the flywheel and clean the points. So-so spark will not necessarily be good enough to fire under compression. To get the flywheel off, try tapping on the end of the puller. Or, while holding the saw up by the flywheel tap around the outside of the flywheel opposite the magnets. Tap, don't beat the hell out of it.

 

[JOE.G]

From what I can tell it is a solid line into the tank, I am using the old plug at the moment, I do have new plugs for it but they are getting harder to find so I would like to try and hold off putting it in the old plug. I did clean up and gaped the plug and it seems to have really nice spark. This saw runs the old style plug that is not like the standard plugs you see today. I'll take muffler off again and see if I can move/clean rings a bit. Could it be a timing issue? I cant get the flywheel off with the pullers I have. I would think even with a bad fuel line I should still get it to fire with fuel or ether. Thanks for the help guy's.