Hi-Lift Jacks for Downriggers?

[ponyexpress976]

there isn't any 'cast iron' on these jacks. it's called nodular steel. very tough.

You are correct sir...I had a brain fart. Despite them being nodular, drilling through them wouldn't leave much meat left on the lifting claw.

Red has the simplest/cheapest idea so far...coupla sliding tubes with pads welded on and a few pins = very little to go wrong in the field.

 

[redheadwoodshed]

You are correct sir...I had a brain fart. Despite them being nodular, drilling through them wouldn't leave much meat left on the lifting claw.

Red has the simplest/cheapest idea so far...coupla sliding tubes with pads welded on and a few pins = very little to go wrong in the field.

That's me.....simple and cheap!:msp_biggrin:

 

[stihl023/5]

how about fulton trailer jacks at each corner? They have ones with telescoping tubes, with a spring loaded pin, so it drops quickly close the the ground or the cribbing, then crank on the handle for the fine adjustment. They are made to weld or bolt on, tilt out of the way, often using the round pipe stub type of mount. Search Northern Tool or similar.

Get hd jacks with weld on stub you pull the pin to rotate or remove I have them on the back of a car trailer work great. Check tractor supply:msp_smile:

 

[brokenbudget]

You are correct sir...I had a brain fart. Despite them being nodular, drilling through them wouldn't leave much meat left on the lifting claw.

Red has the simplest/cheapest idea so far...coupla sliding tubes with pads welded on and a few pins = very little to go wrong in the field.

there shouldn't be any need to drill a hole. the 2 jack-all's i have both have a hole in the center of the snout under the pad.
if he did want to use them for supports, i'd just weld a piece of square tube at each corner of the trailer, drill a hole to match the one in the snout, shove the jack in the tubing, add a pin,
hit the switch to drop the beam to the ground, hit the switch again and start lifting. easy peazy

 

[Moss Man]

there shouldn't be any need to drill a hole. the 2 jack-all's i have both have a hole in the center of the snout under the pad.
if he did want to use them for supports, i'd just weld a piece of square tube at each corner of the trailer, drill a hole to match the one in the snout, shove the jack in the tubing, add a pin,
hit the switch to drop the beam to the ground, hit the switch again and start lifting. easy peazy

"the 2 jack-all's i have both have a hole in the center of the snout under the pad"

Could you post a photo of that? I don't have a Hi-Lift and the photos I've seen online aren't very detailed.

 

[brokenbudget]

"the 2 jack-all's i have both have a hole in the center of the snout under the pad"

Could you post a photo of that? I don't have a Hi-Lift and the photos I've seen online aren't very detailed.

pics? you want me to post pics?:hmm3grin2orange:
it'll be this evening:msp_thumbup:

 

[brokenbudget]

here's a circa 1970's jack-all, 48" beam:

just giving you an idea of the size of the hole:

these jacks are brutaly strong.

 

[Moss Man]

here's a circa 1970's jack-all, 48" beam:

just giving you an idea of the size of the hole:

these jacks are brutaly strong.

Thanx! I've used that type of jack to lift a roof that was poorly designed and needed new bracing, three of them across the structure and I'm convinced they would have popped the roof off if need be.