Home Depot Rental Chainsaw for Sale - Should I?

[Jack Smith]

Enjoy yours thoroughly ! When it's time to refresh , give @fordf150 a call for your 79cc piston and cylinder for a pretty substantial boost in juice! Let me know if I steered you wrong or you decide just to liquidate. I would definitely take a nice clean saw such as this, off your hands ....

Stay safe and have fun with your new toy ! Matt

Thanks Matt. That 79cc boost sounds awesome. More power? No argument there. Plus it sounds like it would make a great project. I appreciate the heads up with @ford150. Once I'm thoroughly acquainted with the saw I'll start to entertain the idea to got to 79cc.

 

[Jack Smith]

I'm sorry guys I'm with Jackbenimble on this one. Home depot seen you coming and stole your lunch money that you could have used on a Stihl or Husky. Being the kind hearted soul that I am let me attempt to get you back on track. I'll just send you 250.00 and you send me that terrible saw that will have way too many problems than what it's worth. Heck I'll even do one better...I'll send you 200 bucks and a Stihl 028 (good mid sized Stihl that will easily outlast the Grand Canyon) and you send me that crappy, blue, overrated, boat anchor.

I appreciate the cautionary note - and the offer! I'm in this thing for the long haul now and will definitely have to come back and report on how things work out with it.

 

[Jack Smith]

Hey guys. By the way, can someone steer me in the right direction, or provide steps, to start a chainsaw? I know it sounds basic but I keep searching the web for tips from veterans and can't find some info I read.

For example, I think you're supposed to pull the start cord a number of times before you open the choke? Or turn the on button switch to "on"? It's pretty confusing - nothing on Makita's site. I need manage, when I should have known better, to flood it on my first attempt yesterday. I was pretty tired at the end of the day and didn't take the time to research all the steps first.

Thanks in advance for any help you're able to provide.

 

[grizz55chev]

2 cycles are finicky, easy to flood. 2 or 3 pulls with the choke on till you hear a pop, then move the control to high idle position, pull till it starts then hit the throttle to kick it down to idle. If you pull more that 5 or 6 times and it doesn’t start, it may have flooded, if you feel this has happened, take the choke off and hold the throttle wide open while starting . If you still can’t start it, there may be other problems, most saws that are in decent shape will start in less than 5 hard pulls.

 

[Jack Smith]

2 cycles are finicky, easy to flood. 2 or 3 pulls with the choke on till you hear a pop, then move the control to high idle position, pull till it starts then hit the throttle to kick it down to idle. If you pull more that 5 or 6 times and it doesn’t start, it may have flooded, if you feel this has happened, take the choke off and hold the throttle wide open while starting . If you still can’t start it, there may be other problems, most saws that are in decent shape will start in less than 5 hard pulls.

Thanks Grizz. I'm going to head down to the basement now. Will return with results

 

[Jackbnimble]

Hi,

New member here. I'm in the process of purchasing a chainsaw and I'm seeking guidance on a Makita 6421 saw I viewed and inspected at a Home Depot Rental Center with a staff member's help. It appears to need a repair and I'd like to obtain advice on the situation.

The purpose of a new chainsaw would be to clear woodland trails of fallen trees ranging from small to large in diameter. I am a mountain biker and often these trees sit for months and months before someone clears them. Storms here in New England usually bring down large trees.

This is the blue model and I was told it is less than 48 months old.

I had the Home Depot rental staff answer many questions I had about the saw (I did lots of research).

Here's the good:
1. Compression test with guage - 152psi (this might be low, still checking)
2. Air filter - looks brand new
3. Fuel filter - looks brand new
4. Spark Plug - looks brand new
5. Chain - Brand new just installed
6. New extra chain provided
7. Over all the main unit looks clean (less bar)
8. The asking price is only $279

The bad:
1. The chain rotates slowly at idol. A tachometer reading shows the chain still rotates at 2300rpm. The saw should be at 2500rpm at idol with no movement. Setting the idol any lower than 2300rpms would appear to stall the saw. Or, as least, it seems to be on the verge of stalling.
2. When we ran the saw outside it seemed to take a lot of high rpms for some time before I could see oil on the ground. The bar nose was held less close to the ground during its operation.
3. The bar looks well used as a lot of the paint has been worn off.

Questions:

1. Are rental chainsaw purchases generally a good or bad idea?
2. Should I purchase the saw and try to install a new clutch drum and/or assembly myself? It looks like the cost is around $60 for these two parts combined.
3. Is the lack of oil (or perceived lack of oil) on the ground something I should concerned about?

Thank you in advance for any help. Currently the saw sits on the display table once again and I'm wondering if I should go back and purchase it before it is sold to another customer.

I like Makitas, a lot. Good, good stuff IMO.

Almost 4 years old, run by guys not necessarily interested or equipped to care for it? How often did they clean/change the air filter? How often did they run a top notch oil mix in it? Or measure it out carefully or use fresh gas in it. How many times did they run it to death, drop it, toss it, run it too lean, too rich, too hot, with dull chains, forcing it, getting it stuck, properly tuning it? I'd have the same questions/concerns if it was a Stihl or Husky under the same circumstances. Again, I like Makitas. I just hesitate to trust HD to care for it and the individuals who rented it from them. Why did they sell it?

But, again, for 200 bucks you haven't risked a whole lot.

 

[Jack Smith]

Thanks Jackbn - you're right about the care overall. The other saws I saw at different HD locations were actually trashed. The air filters were caked in and the compression was only 110 (assuming the staff did it right). I think the tech at the store I bought it from said they supply the fuel/oil mixture at first. What helped my purchase decision is that the compression was excellent (slightly over 150psi). I asked Makita over the phone was it should be and they said between 130psi and 150psi.

I just got my saw started and I'm going to post a vid in a moment of a ringing sound I heard - stay tuned

 

[Jack Smith]

Ok, great news. I got my saw started without too much trouble.

But now for my first unexpected encounter - a ringing noise when the brake is off. I uploaded a video at the link below. The password is "makita6421" with no spacing.

Does anyone know what this sound is? Could it be a problem (I hope not )

https://www.screencast.com/t/eUTmhojZ

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

$200 is hard to pass up. Good buy.

Did you just try adjusting the idle screw so the chain doesn't turn?

Regarding the chain brake...start using it more often than just setting it down. It will become second nature. I learned 20+ years ago the "rule" is if you are taking more than 2 steps with the saw running the brake gets set.

Better yet, don't walk around with your hands on the throttle.

 

[Jack Smith]

Issue#2

Running the saw on high I pointed the nose of the bar over a white piece of cardboard to see how the bar oil mechanism was working. While the cardboard showed some oil on it, there wasn't much. Based on the image of the carboard, should there be more oil on it?

When I checked the oil level it was low so I added some. I filled it almost to the top. Could this have caused issues? When I ran the saw oil was leaking from it. Below are some pics.

I guess whats concerns me is that there is more oil on the basement floor that on the white cardboard.

 

[johninky]

All I use a chainsaw for is cutting up tops, stuff loggers leave behind, for firewood. Wacking up downed trees can be very dangerous. Some limbs will be under a lot of compression/tension and when they let go, better not be in the way. Had a fairly large branch fly over my head a few years ago. Without a doubt would have killed me if I was a few inches taller. Also a very good idea to not be alone when cutting. A buddy with the same blood type is the best choice.

 

[Jack Smith]

...A buddy with the same blood type is the best choice".

Thanks for sharing your experience. And for your humor. That's pretty funny

 

[Flint Mitch]

Ok, great news. I got my saw started without too much trouble.

But now for my first unexpected encounter - a ringing noise when the brake is off. I uploaded a video at the link below. The password is "makita6421" with no spacing.

Does anyone know what this sound is? Could it be a problem (I hope not )

https://www.screencast.com/t/eUTmhojZ

Mine does it also and I narrowed it down to the noise the clutch drum makes when it's spinning free

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Flint Mitch]

Issue#2

Running the saw on high I pointed the nose of the bar over a white piece of cardboard to see how the bar oil mechanism was working. While the cardboard showed some oil on it, there wasn't much. Based on the image of the carboard, should there be more oil on it?

When I checked the oil level it was low so I added some. I filled it almost to the top. Could this have caused issues? When I ran the saw oil was leaking from it. Below are some pics.

I guess whats concerns me is that there is more oil on the basement floor that on the white cardboard.

View attachment 638243 View attachment 638244

Those saws have adjustable oilers so you can increase or reduce oil flow. The low oil level could have been the issue...

Did the oil drops show up after it was sitting for a while after you turned it off, or was it dripping out while it was running at high RPM? Either way I would pull the bar off and clean any crud from the grove the chain rides in and the 2 small oil holes in the tail area of the bar then try again

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
The little white screw filled with saw dust is the oil adjuster

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Is the bar clean?

 

[ATH]

Is the bar clean?

That is my guess. Make sure the hole in the side of the bar where the oil goes in is clean and that the bar rail is clean. You can use a paper clip...

 

[Jack Smith]

Thank you Flint Mitch - that's good news it might just be the clutch drum. I'll do some reading on this. I didn't know that about the adjustable oiler. Still learning about the saw. The oil only leaks when I run it at high RPMs it so I think that sounds like a good thing. I remove the bar, clean it, and inspect the 2 small holes you mentioned. Thanks for pointing this out.

Valley Firewood, and ATH - thanks! I'll be checking out the bar for dirt/grime well as the hole where the oil goes. I'll grab a paper clip before I head back to the basement.

 

[blades]

Me I open up the bar oil hole and add a a bit of a groove leading into it. The 64xx makita I got from HD - the oiler pump assembly was fried so replaced not real difficult but that is a left hand thread to get behind clutch. Other issue was a gunked up carb ( ethanol problems) but several sessions of running it with seafoam cleaned that up nicely . Most of my saws are dolmars/makita- with 79xx and 64xx doing the brunt of the work.

 

[Jack Smith]

Me I open up the bar oil hole and add a a bit of a groove leading into it. The 64xx makita I got from HD - the oiler pump assembly was fried so replaced not real difficult but that is a left hand thread to get behind clutch. Other issue was a gunked up carb ( ethanol problems) but several sessions of running it with seafoam cleaned that up nicely . Most of my saws are dolmars/makita- with 79xx and 64xx doing the brunt of the work.

Thanks Blades. It's interesting to hear that you picked up an HD saw too. So an oiler pump assembler can indeed get fried - good to know.

Presently I wouldn't be very good at detecting carb issues but hopefully I'm in the clear. I did notice, however, that when I ran the saw full open the power didn't seem 100% steady. It was very close, but it would drop a bit and then go back to normal. Hardly noticeable but it's there.

Could this be a carb issue?

 

[Flint Mitch]

Thanks Blades. It's interesting to hear that you picked up an HD saw too. So an oiler pump assembler can indeed get fried - good to know.

Presently I wouldn't be very good at detecting carb issues but hopefully I'm in the clear. I did notice, however, that when I ran the saw full open the power didn't seem 100% steady. It was very close, but it would drop a bit and then go back to normal. Hardly noticeable but it's there.

Could this be a carb issue?

Could haver been hitting the rev limiter or four stroking like it should

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