Homelite 360 Pro info please....I just bought my first Chainsaw

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Antelope

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Hello. I just bought my first chainsaw. It is a Homelite 360 Pro. It came with a 20'' and 16'' bar, a brand new chain, a wrench, some files, and a hard plastic case. It also has some kind of weird little oil squeeze bottle in there.
Anyway, it starts and runs pretty good. I think it just needs a good cleaning and some TLC. Maybe one of those carb boots. I read alot of posts on here regarding the 360 and the carb boots.
So anyway, I am really excited about it. I paid $40 for it. I tried it out and it cut through a 15'' softwood log like butter.
This is also my first post on this forum. I am happy to be a part of your community. I was wondering if anyone could give me some info on the 360. I would love it if someone knew where I could get an owners manual. I have never had a chainsaw before, and I would really like to read through the owners manual so that I operate the saw safely. Perhaps a parts manual. I would also like to know if anyone has some good websites, or information on general chainsaw use. Techniques and safety information. I am completly new to chainsaws. I am not afraid of saying that I am ignorant when it comes to chainsaws. But I am mechanicly inclined, have a bit of experience in small engine work, and learn fast.
Anyway, any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
One of the most immediate dangers of all saws is kickback, don't let the nose of the bar contact anything solid while it is running.

Manuals can be had via Ebay.

Use the right gas/oil mix ratio, make sure the bar oiler works. Learn to sharpen the chain with a chain file and guide, need the right size.

Learn to adjust the carburator, err slightly on the rich side.
 
JohnL said:
One of the most immediate dangers of all saws is kickback, don't let the nose of the bar contact anything solid while it is running.

Manuals can be had via Ebay.

Use the right gas/oil mix ratio, make sure the bar oiler works. Learn to sharpen the chain with a chain file and guide, need the right size.

Learn to adjust the carburator, err slightly on the rich side.

Yes, I was reading about kickback on some chainsaw website. I can see how the physics of that would work. The extra (longer) bar my saw came with looks to have a tip guard that bolts to the end to prevent the nose from catching on anything. Perhaps I should see if that fits the smaller bar too while I am learning.

How do I check to make sure the oiler is working. Do I just check to see if the chain is oily after running it, or is there a more conclusive way to check its operation.
I looked the saw up on the Chainsaw Collectors Corner Website, and it said to use a fuel to oil ratio of 32:1 with Homelite oil. Do I really need Homelite brand, or will another oil work too?
Thanks for the pointers, I appreciate it greatly.
John
 
Any 2 stroke oil will do it does not need to be homelite 2 stroke oil just don't go buying any inferior brands go for something like castrol super 2 stroke(castrol also makes stihl 2 stroke mix) or mobil 2 stroke mix. As for checking the chain oiler sit it on the ground with your foot on the rear hand guard and run it at full throttle for a couple of seconds and you should see some oil throw off on the ground or you can hold the saw and point the nose of the bar at a log and get the same effect (just do not touch the surface with the nose of the bar), and remember keep your left arm straight on the wrap around handle as a straight arm is stronger than a bent arm and keep both hands on the saw while cutting.The anti kickback plate that you see on the bar is a pain in the A$$ especially if the logs you are cutting takes up more than the whole bar. Practise bucking logs and learn to control the throttle try to cut thin pieces of log to practise keeping control of the saw, waste some wood and gas geting used to handling a saw and it will pay off in the long run,and remember when refuelling fill up the bar oil first and fill up with gas last.
 
Hi John,

Homelite 350/360s are very nice saws. If this is your first and you're not used to operating one, be very careful as this saw has enough power to be dangerous. 16" and 20" bars are ideal for the 360. Some come with an adjustable oiler and some are fixed rate. You can tell which you have by looking at the front of the saw near the bar mount.

The Intertec chainsaw manuals (later editions, I know after 7th) have info for repair of the 360s. Owner's manuals pop up on eBay (that's where I got mine). Parts lists (IPLs) are also on eBay, but there are electronic copies for free all over the place. If you have trouble finding any, let me know I can email you electronic copies.

Dan
 
Antelope said:
.

How do I check to make sure the oiler is working. Do I just check to see if the chain is oily after running it, or is there a more conclusive way to check its operation.
John

If you aim the tip of the bar at a clean surface, hold it a couple inches away and rev the saw up a bit, you should see a slight oil overspray on the surface.
Also, after a tankful of gas you should need almost a tankful of oil, unless your adjustable oiler is turned down, then you'll use about a half a tank full.
The biggest challenge a new saw user faces is keeping the saw sharp. Don't touch the dirt, even for a half a second, or your chain is dull. If the log is on the ground, cut 2/3s of the way through and roll it over to finish, just like with your wife.
Unlike with your wife, the saw should go through the wood with almost no pushing at all, just the weight of the saw. Otherwise, sharpen or put on a sharp chain. A sharp chain will put out lots of nice big chips, not dust.
The 036 is an awesome saw for your application, congratulations.
 
Thanks for all the info and links. Very helpful. I took the saw apart a bit last night to clean it. It was pretty filthy, with caked on oil and wood. She is looking pretty good now.
I couldn't find a manual on ebay, so if anyone has any other sources, I would love to hear them.
My saw doesn't have one of those spiky bumber on it. Where the bar meets the saw. Is this something that I should try and find for it? What is it used for? Also, after looking at the parts diagram, there seems to be some kind of extended handguard that bolts on to the small strap hand guard that is part of the saw. I am talking about on the back handle with the throttle. It bolts on the bottom and goes to the right of the handle to protect your hand. Is this something I should try and find too?

Thanks,
John
also....how do you like my new avatar?
 
John welcome to AS, and congratulations on your purchase. Regarding a manual, the "Safety and Maintainance Manual" by Oregon/Blout will serve you well until you get the manual for your saw. If you contact them they will send you a hard copy at their expense, at least they used to a couple of years ago. Here it is online.

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm

The manual for my SXL-130 did not have as much information, and the site on adjusting carburetors at Marsden should help you out, the Homelite manuals included this, but the Oregon does not. Here is the Marsden link
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm

Info on your saw is limited at www.acresinternet.com check in chainsaws, under Homelite and click on the blue triangles at the left of the Manufacturers name and a list will appear of all the models.

Wishing you well with your new saw.
 
Brit101 said:
John welcome to AS, and congratulations on your purchase. Regarding a manual, the "Safety and Maintainance Manual" by Oregon/Blout will serve you well until you get the manual for your saw. If you contact them they will send you a hard copy at their expense, at least they used to a couple of years ago. Here it is online.

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm

.

Thanks for the links. I read the oregon manual that you spoke of. After reading it and thinking back to my observations last night while cleaning my saw, it looks like I need a new drive sproket. The one on my saw has deep groovs worn into it. Any ideas on sourcing that?
 
Brit101 said:
The manual for my SXL-130 did not have as much information, and the site on adjusting carburetors at Marsden should help you out, the Homelite manuals included this, but the Oregon does not. Here is the Marsden link
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm

.

This is the same link as the oregon one. I tried searching for Marsden, but only got this thread. Could you give me the link again.
thanks,
john
 
Antelope said:
Thanks for the links. I read the oregon manual that you spoke of. After reading it and thinking back to my observations last night while cleaning my saw, it looks like I need a new drive sproket. The one on my saw has deep groovs worn into it. Any ideas on sourcing that?


Be sure exactly which sprocket you need. Homelite made 2 sizes for the 360. I think they are 2 5/8" and 3" diameter. Bought a new 2 5/8" drum thinking it was OK, but found out the hard way it wasn't. I might still have it around here.

Chris B.
 
Here's a scan from an Intertec service manual for the 350/360 saws. I hope the attachment will work. Its 640 KB. If there's a problem with the attachment, I'll try to email it to ya later.

Dan

350 360 Service Manual
 
lesorubcheek said:
Here's a scan from an Intertec service manual for the 350/360 saws. I hope the attachment will work. Its 640 KB. If there's a problem with the attachment, I'll try to email it to ya later.

Dan

350 360 Service Manual

The attachment worked great. That is an awesome file to get. Thanks a bunch.

john
 
Well I have been adjusting the carb, and the saw is running very smoothly. I am having a hard time getting the idle speed down enough though I think. I can get it to stop spinning the chain for a bit, but most of the time the chain kinda creeps forward a bit a few inches every other second or so.
Is that normal for the chain to just barely creep forward during idle? Or do I need to monkey with it further to make sure the chain doesn't move at all?
 
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