Homelite questions

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Marc1

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2006
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Thought I give this another try.
Bought a Homelite Super XL 925 last year yet couldn't get it to work as it should. Keeps running lean and stopping. Thought it sucks air from somewhere.
Turns out it needs replacing the crank case seals

Your rattle gun suggestion did work and I was able to dismantle the stubborn clutch no problem. Thanks for that one, the repairer I took it to, gave it back saying he couldn't take the clutch off.:dizzy:

The clutch looks good, no much wear, the needle bearing has some rust on the housing but needles seem fine. Took the gear off that turns the oiling pump, seems OK. took the pump off, turns freely, a bit loose but then again as long as it pumps... Now I am onto the seal that needs replacing.

Questions:

How do I dig the seals out?

Once out, does the new seal just slide on or does it need some stuff to stick it on?

I noticed that there is a larger felt seal on the oil pump that sits around the gear that drives the pump. That seal does not look like it will seal much at all, probably half mil play. Does it matter? I don't have a spare for that one.

How does the clutch needle bearing get lubrication? It is closed off by two washers. Grease at the time of mounting it...and then?

I also need to change the seal that is on the other side, under the flywheel.
How do I get to that seal? Does the flywheel come off easy?

Thank you
Marc
 
Those small crank seals can be a real p.i.t.a. to get out, here's what I do....

Sometimes you can take a nail and sharpen it to a nice point on a bench grinder, or with a file if you don't have a grinder, and take a small hammer and punch a hole in the metal portion of the seal with the nail - but be careful and don't slam the nail into the bearing/race and damage it, easy does it here. Find a small screw that will thread into the seal so you'll have something to get ahold of and pull it out. I use a miniature slide hammer like you use to pull dents out with, but pliers will also work. I've also used a tiny drill bit to make the hole.

On some saws, like the small Poulans for instance, the seal is so thin it's hard to use this method so I use a little jewler's screwdriver that I left flat on the end and sharpened one side of it like you would sharpen a lawnmower blade. I'll then take a small hammer and cut into the metal portion of the seal to make a hole and pull it out with a pick. Be very careful not to gouge the crankshaft or the case where the outer portion of the seal seats.

The new seals are just a press-fit, they're tight and you don't need any glue or adhesive to hold them in place. I usually put a little two-stroke oil on the rubber portion of the seal and the crankshaft before I install the seal so that it slides down the crankshaft easily. You have to be careful and make sure the new seal does'nt catch and turn itself inside out and pop out the little spring. I usually find a deep socket that fits over the crank to install them with, but some saws have cranks that are too long to use this method, in which case I'll just tap them into place with a punch - again, be careful and don't try to beat it in like you would a nail - easy does it!!! Take a little at a time, again, don't beat on it and distort the seal - just try to eyeball it and keep it square in relation to the crankshaft and very carefully tap it into place. Always look at your old seals before you remove them to see how deep they are seated into the case so you'll know when to stop.

As far as pulling off the flywheel, it's best to use or make a puller if at all possible (I do btw) or take it to your local dealer and have them pull it for you...........in the real world...... loosen the flywheel nut but leave it on the shaft, even with the end of the crank so you don't damage the threads and hit the end of the shaft with a soft brass hammer, again carefully now. 9 times out of 10 they'le pop right off. If you have someone to help you it sometimes will help to carefully pry up on the bottom of the flywheel with a couple of screwdrivers 180* apart. Again be very easy if you do this - it's really easy to break a case or flywheel if you pry too hard on it. I use this method when I have no other choice but try not to if at all possible. You've been warned LOL, I'm not responsible if you break something. If you do use the hammer method and it does'nt want to pop loose don't keep beating on it. Sometimes a little heat from a heat gun or propane torch can help if they're stuck, be careful if you use a torch so you don't catch the saw on fire and burn yourself up. Pull the plug out and stuff some rope into the cylinder as a piston stop to loosen the flywheel nut, or use an air ratchet. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, EVER try to hold a flywheel by sticking a screwdriver in the fins, you'll break them EVERY time. Trust me on this.

Anyway, right or wrong, that's how I do it. Maybe some of the others here can offer more or better tips. Hope this helps, Matt
 
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