Homelite XL2

[Adam Kinequon]

I was helping a close family friend clean out her passed father's garage. Came upon a Homelite XL2 automatic saw. The man was meticulous with his tools. So much so that he still has the original owners manual for the saw. It is in near perfect condition with only a few minor scuffs. Bar is original. I'm assuming chain is as well. No fuel or oil was left in the saw as he drained it after every use. My friend wants me to sell it for her, but I have no clue what the price would be for such an item. Any help would be much appreciated. Will load pics as soon as possible.

 

[rd35]

If it runs and oils good then I'm estimating it should bring $40-50. If it also looks really nice and clean, then maybe more. Just guessing at this point.

 

[Jasonrkba]

They range between $15-$60 around here. Sounds like yours is in the higher range.

 

[Adam Kinequon]

Pics

 

[Adam Kinequon]

He was still using this saw. Found fresh cuttings when I was tightening the chain. 32:1 fuel mix

 

[Colt Marlington]

I gave twenty bucks for this one. Very nice little saw, but it smokes a bit.

 

[rd35]

Hey Colt take off the oil tank cap and see if the duckbill valve is still on the end of the hose at the top of the oil tank. Sometimes it falls off into the tank and allows chain oil to be sucked into the crank case when you turn the saw up sideways. Creates a nasty smoke cloud when that happens. Also pretty much disables the chain oiler as well.

 

[undee70ss]

Hey Colt take off the oil tank cap and see if the duckbill valve is still on the end of the hose at the top of the oil tank. Sometimes it falls off into the tank and allows chain oil to be sucked into the crank case when you turn the saw up sideways. Creates a nasty smoke cloud when that happens. Also pretty much disables the chain oiler as well.

Here’s a pic of why it should look like.

 

[rd35]

Thanks undee70ss! That's exactly what I was trying to describe! A picture is worth a thousand words!!! If that little orange valve falls off the end of the hose and you turn the saw sideways so oil gets up on the end of that top hose, then it will suck oil into the crankcase of the saw and she'll smoke like a freight train!!! The last one of these I worked on had that orange duckbill valve laying in the bottom of the tank...and I had no mosquitos around my shop for two weeks!!!

 

[Colt Marlington]

Thank both of you guys, rd35 and undee70ss, for the suggestion.
The saw was near hydro-locked when I got it. And I suspected oil was getting in the crankcase somehow. After washing out the cylinder a few times with gas/oil mix it was easy to start.
But if I remember right, the duckbill is in place. Could be old and leaking, or the line it's attached to I guess though.
Piston also has some light scoring. Since I have so little in the saw I may spring the $30 for a NOS piston, ring, and pin kit.
It's a good backup top handle saw that's light enough to one hand in case I get my 2511 pinched up in a tree sometime.
And even though these don't have as much power, I like the feel of it better than the heavier and not-so-top-handle-ish Craftsman 2.3.

Edit: duckbill

 

[jltrent]

I gave twenty bucks for this one. Very nice little saw, but it smokes a bit.View attachment 733203

I have worked on several of those and if it smokes a lot one of the main problems is the oiler diaphragm has a hole in it and the engine is sucking the bar oil into the cylinder and burning it (the diaphragm is an obsolete part). Another problem with these saws that make them not run right as I have probably split 30-40 is where the engine goes together at the crank shaft,will leak air. It is hard to seal also as it is metal on metal and does not have a grove for the yamabond to seal good.

 

[Colt Marlington]

I have worked on several of those and if it smokes a lot one of the main problems is the oiler diaphragm has a hole in it and the engine is sucking the bar oil into the cylinder and burning it (the diaphragm is an obsolete part). Another problem with these saws that make them not run right as I have probably split 30-40 is where the engine goes together at the crank shaft,will leak air. It is hard to seal also as it is metal on metal and does not have a grove for the yamabond to seal good.

That's some good info to know.
It runs real good and starts real easy. And is not smoking nearly as much as when I first got it.
Maybe not a great idea to put too much into it with parts so difficult to come by. Probably should just run it as is.

 

[Okie]

a hint that it's actually burning bar oil is test the saw without any bar oil in the oil tank.

Just squirt some oil on the bar before run testing so the chain is oiled.

Some of them type homies has a pulse restrictor in the pulse line before the duckbill. (to reduce the pulse pressure)

I've seen some of them smoke, still run, cut and oiled the bar ok and I just use them as is. Keeps the mosquitos back.

I would not give very much for one of those homies you asked about. They are old, usually need carb kit, yours needs a new chain, and if not careful you can easily get more into one that it's worth to get a good run. Best to have two or thre for donor parts. Also several of the parts are not interchangeable due to production changes even though they kinda look same on the outside.

I've got pile of them little homies that I picked up out of the dumps and some were given to me and I have about 3 good runners that I use as trim saws for ATV, jeep trails and roads.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I gave $15 for this with the case.

 

[undee70ss]

Thank both of you guys, rd35 and undee70ss, for the suggestion.
The saw was near hydro-locked when I got it. And I suspected oil was getting in the crankcase somehow. After washing out the cylinder a few times with gas/oil mix it was easy to start.
But if I remember right, the duckbill is in place. Could be old and leaking, or the line it's attached to I guess though.
Piston also has some light scoring. Since I have so little in the saw I may spring the $30 for a NOS piston, ring, and pin kit.
It's a good backup top handle saw that's light enough to one hand in case I get my 2511 pinched up in a tree sometime.
And even though these don't have as much power, I like the feel of it better than the heavier and not-so-top-handle-ish Craftsman 2.3.

Check the hose that the duckbill is in, if oil on inside, then duckbill is the problem. If no oil, check diaphragm, if leaking there oil will get sucked into crankcase.

 

[hotshot]

Some of them type homies has a pulse restrictor in the pulse line before the duckbill. (to reduce the pulse pressure)

Only the fluid side ever used a restrictor orifice, never the pulse or air side. It is part number 93703-B, and used on the later direct pressurized XL (cheap) saws that had no pump metering diaphragms.

You can go to Leon’s Chainsaw Parts or the House of Homelite websites to get the IPLs, service bulletins & the correct information.

 

[Okie]

Only the fluid side ever used a restrictor orifice, never the pulse or air side. It is part number 93703-B, and used on the later direct pressurized XL (cheap) saws that had no pump metering diaphragms.

You can go to Leon’s Chainsaw Parts or the House of Homelite websites to get the IPLs, service bulletins & the correct information.

It's quite common for the glued on ID tag to not be on the little Homies and then the correct IPL is not user friendly to locate.
If the glued on tag is still on the saw I take a etcher tool and mark the ID info on the saw. The tag will eventually come off and get lost or the tag info cannot be read.

 

[Quigleythemystic]

Anybody know if I can just swap the tiny 1/4 inch 9 pin sprocket on my xl2 with a 3/8lp sprocket?

 

[undee70ss]

Anybody know if I can just swap the tiny 1/4 inch 9 pin sprocket on my xl2 with a 3/8lp sprocket?

Yes!