Honda engine trouble

[Ohiowoodguy]

The GX610, 18hp V-Twin engine on my 'new' (800 hours) TW6 died if gas was < 1/2 full, then if < 3/4 full, and now will only run for 2 seconds if gas is dumped directly into the carb. I checked fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel cut-off solenoid, and fuel quality:confused2:. Anyone have other ideas?

 

[Steve2910]

Check the oil level, if it's OK, unplug the wire to the low oil pressure switch. The switch could have gone bad or operating the engine on a slope can set off the low oil shut-down

 

[zogger]

Does it really pump gas?

I mean did you redirect it and shoot some gas into a jar or something? Because if it really gets gas and spark, and you have good timing and compression, it should run and keep running.

Do the carbs on those things have any modern EPA voodoo electronics? I am suspicious as all get out with small engine carbs with electronic doo dads hooked to them, just seems...unnatural.

Small engines my rule of thumb is it is almost invariably a carb/fuel issue on push mower and smaller engines (well, lawnmowers the flywheel key from hitting crap so they lose time), once they get to riding mower size or larger with all sorts of wiring I think electronic gremlins first, because that has been my experience wrenching on them.

It's like they are designed on purpose to not work if the least little tiniest eeny bitty thing goes wrong, wham, no workee, save the environment! or whatever...save something..save ya from doing your WORK, that's about it...

Heck, I'm a little guy and I can hit tiny bumps with modern riding mowers and it momentarily shuts the engine down just from me bouncing in the seat with the safety switch going on and off. I don't weigh enough even with the settings down low. Buncha crap......how the heck did the hooman bean race even survive without the nanny state for..a zillion generations, is beyond me. According to the goobermint, none of us should even be here, everything in the world was "too unsafe to use" just a generation ago...mumble..rant...

 

[Bl8tant]

Sure sounds like a carb issue. Remove the float bowl, unscrew the jet (use a GOOD correctly-sized slotted screwdriver or else you will ruin the jet slot) and remove the emulsion tube. Clean the emulsion tube and jet throughly....then clean it again. Sounds like a classic case of ethanol-fuel sickness. A very light film of crud slowly grows on carb parts until running issues develop. In the future, use sta-bil in all your fuel, and occasionally run some Sea-Foam fuel treatment through it. Your issues will go away and stay away. Or find someplace that sells gas with NO ethanol in it (good luck).

 

[Steve2910]

Just remembered this---
I have a GX240 on a mixer w/ an in-line fuel filter.... after sitting for a few months, the in-line was dry. It would not run until I unhooked the fuel line from the carb & primed the fuel line.

 

[Steve2910]

[ Or find someplace that sells gas with NO ethanol in it (good luck).[/QUOTE]

I've always heard that 93 octane has no ethanol, anybody else??

 

[Whitespider]

I've always heard that 93 octane has no ethanol, anybody else??

It depends on the state and local laws you live under. Some states (such as Minnesota) require that all motor fuels for highway use must contain 10% ethanol, and some cities have like ordinances. Most of those laws/ordinances allow exemptions for things like classic and antique autos, but the problem is finding a seller.

In my immediate local area we can buy 87, 89 and 91 octane gasoline; only the 89 octane is blended with 10% ethanol, the 87 and 91 octane fuels are ethanol free. If I drive 30-miles the situation changes, a 93 octane fuel also becomes available and ethanol will be found blended with any of the grades depending on the pump/retailer. Iowa law says any pump dispensing gasoline having an ethanol content of 1% or more must be labeled, so it's a simple matter of looking for the ethanol decal next to the grade selection button.

 

[Ohiowoodguy]

The pump was pumping, no electronics other that a fuel shut-off solenoid- which is working. I do dump a bottle of treatment into the bulk tank each delivery, and its the same gas I used for 3000hours on my previous TW with no issues:bang:. More guesses would be appreciated.

 

[Whitespider]

From the symptoms you describe...

First the engine died if the fuel tank was less than 1/2 full,
then it would die if the fuel tank was less than 3/4 full,
and now it will only run if gas is dumped directly into the carb.

... I would have to guess a weak fuel pump is the problem. Or, depending on how the fuel tank is set up (such as the fuel line entering through the top of the tank), there could be a hole or other type of leak causing the pump to suck air. You should be able to confirm the problem is fuel delivery to the carb (rather than the carb itself) by disconnecting the fuel line from the tank and rigging-up a temporary gravity feed fuel supply.

 

[deerlakejens]

I would double check the fuel line, especially since you mentioned it cutting out at at 1/2 and then 3/4 full. Not familiar with this engine but have had similar issues turn out to be small cracks in the fuel line that suck air, lose pressure. Just a thought.

 

[Whitespider]

One more thought, or possibility... it's rare but I've seen it more than once.
Sometimes the fuel line inner membrane can separate from the outer casing and when the pump applies suction it will cause the membrane to collapse.

 

[Ohiowoodguy]

And the winner is-

actually a tie between Whitespider and Deerlakejens. The inline fuel filter had an invisible crack which was obviously worsening allowing the pump to suck air.

 

[Bl8tant]

That's why I recommend filters be placed AFTER the fuel pump. If they crack....it leaks and you see the leak. Also, in the event the fuel pump sends out some type of debris, the debris is caught by the filter rather than plugging the carb inlet.

Glad you got it figured out. Trying to diagnose air leaks can be annoying. Good work!