Horizontal vs. Vertical Log Splitter Use?

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Got a lot flack with this .But I can roll a very large round pretty easy on this an be sitting on my butt when splitting .For me this is far better than vertical
 
That thing makes my back stiff just watching it in operation! The auto ram return is nice though.

I thought ya’ll were talking about some big rounds. Then I see the video and LMAO. Those are some baby rounds that guy is splitting and he is staying bent over the whole time wile he holding that baby round in place.
I’m with you, that makes my back hurt just watching him split those baby rounds.
I’m 53 and hell I can even lift those rounds all day long up on my Husky splitter.
 
I thought ya’ll were talking about some big rounds. Then I see the video and LMAO. Those are some baby rounds that guy is splitting and he is staying bent over the whole time wile he holding that baby round in place.
I’m with you, that makes my back hurt just watching him split those baby rounds.
I’m 53 and hell I can even lift those rounds all day long up on my Husky splitter.

I'm just short of 72 and those little rounds don't even rate going verticle with me and my 35 ton huskee combo.My best suggestion to Spidys 5 friends is to put their H/V units on EBAY,CL,Penny Saver or Free Trader.Lots of people are looking for them.Put the proceeds toward the Log Boss IF that is what they want.
 
For you girls with weak backs, I'm bettin' the guys over in Marble Rock would build you one in any height your heart desires.
But that would sort'a defeat the tilt-to-side feature don't ya' think??

Heck, it makes my back stiff and sore just thinkin' about lifting every round waist high!!! It ain't the bending over that gets your back, if it was "they'd" never recommend toe-touching exercises for back patients, it's the lifting that does it.
 
Yeah, that's it.
The video shows auto-cycle and tilt feature pretty good... but that log wasn't big enough to justify using the tilt-over.
And, for whatever reason, those guys aren't using the stroke return stop either??

At least I now have a more complete picture of what you've been describing. I was imagining (and even stated once!) that you must have a high end processor with all sorts of lift and off-load table, etc. to be as great as you've indicated.

I'm still in the "to each his own" camp, but you've been pretty adamant that your machine is better than going vertical when in reality and unless you are truly a little-person as posited by another, your's appears to present ergonomics that would be more likely to induce injury than most.

Don't get me wrong, you clearly prefer it and I think that's great! I like mine and prefer vertical mode, as do many others. Knowing how I operate, I won't be a bit surprised if I get into a pattern at some point in the future and end up switching my preference. No worries!

I actually think your's is pretty cool and particularly like the way the engine speed automatically adjusts. I think it was Sunfish that said it looked slow, but it looks faster than mine! I might want to find a way to get away from the in-between height it presents so I could either work seated, or standing straight up. You may have found a way (unless again, the little-person thing...) but from the video on YouTube, it looks a bit less than perfect.

Oh well, good thing you like it, since it's what you have. Me too!!! :msp_thumbup:
 
I think it was Sunfish that said it looked slow, but it looks faster than mine!
L-O-L
That's because sunfish is comparing it to his inertia type splitter!
I've used the Super Split, and it is fast, really fast... in the right type of wood. Splitting the tough and/or stringy stuff you need to hit the round two, three or more times and that speed advantage is lost. Necessity is the mother of invention and it's been claimed that Dutch Elm Disease was the driving force behind developing the hydraulic splitter... the Super Split is fast, but it just ain't up to a steady diet of nasty, gnarly, stringy, tough to split wood like American Elm, Bur Oak and Sugar Maple (90% of what's around here). I don't know of anyone in this area with a Super Split, but up around the lake home, where 90% of firewood is Red Oak, Paper Birch and various pines, I know of several.


...from the video on YouTube, it looks a bit less than perfect.
Perfect??
The only way a splitter could be perfect is if it did ALL the work while you sat in the shade next to an ice chest packed with beer... short of that, everything else is a compromise.
 
Sunfish actually brought his SS to a GTG we had in Jasper, and I supplied him with 2 knotty rounds of Hedge and a couple rounds of American Elm...
It split them all without a hiccup... It would have to be a pretty horrible piece to not split on the SS...
 
The one that I tried would not split 26 inch elm rounds without hitting them at least three times, some took several more cycles. It totally failed on the crotch... and we ended up cutting the stuck crotch off the wedge. It did pretty good on the straighter pieces of Bur Oak with only an occasional second cycling needed, but the twisted and knotty pieces gave it some trouble... and just like the elm, it failed to split the crotch.

Don't get me wrong, it got the job done... I'm just sayin' the need to use multiple cycles to make a split negated any speed advantage.
 
...Don't get me wrong, it got the job done... I'm just sayin' the need to use multiple cycles to make a split negated any speed advantage.

Perhaps on the occasional extra tough split, but saying that one out of ten (or whatever...) that requires an extra hit or two or three negates an advantage might not be fair. Even your own will likely pause for the occasional really tough split through a gnarly elm crotch. As often as not, many of those just get crushed anyway and not really split to well and the results aren't really fit for neat stacking.

Those things go a little "too fast" for my likes anyway. I'd probably be fine using it myself, but I wouldn't want my kids or any friends using it, if it was mine. And those flywheel splitters? I wouldn't touch 'em myself or even want to be around when anyone else runs 'em!

I cut and split firewood and burn because I enjoy it. Buying a splitter this year was to maintain my health and avoid beating my body up any more than I must. I still split by hand, but now have another option when it fits. I like mine, but also like a lot of the other types I've seen here.
 
The Super Split is not for everyone, but I Love the Thing!

The one that I tried would not split 26 inch elm rounds without hitting them at least three times, some took several more cycles. It totally failed on the crotch... and we ended up cutting the stuck crotch off the wedge. It did pretty good on the straighter pieces of Bur Oak with only an occasional second cycling needed, but the twisted and knotty pieces gave it some trouble... and just like the elm, it failed to split the crotch.

Don't get me wrong, it got the job done... I'm just sayin' the need to use multiple cycles to make a split negated any speed advantage.

Mostly Oak here Spidey. I usually let the Elm rot in the woods. But year before last I cut and split around 10 cords of dead Red Elm and the Super Split was fantastic! Had to hit one out of ten rounds twice (that's 4 seconds:)) and maybe one out of 30 thrice. The oak I cut is always a one hit wonder.
:msp_smile:
 
After watching the vid, I gotta say I like how all the controls work on that low-boy, and the auto-idle thing.

But there's no way my back could stand working it. It is very much the bending over that gets my back - and I don't have to be lifting anything while bent over. It doesn't stop me from doing a lot of work, but I have to lift with my knees & legs and avoid the bending. That why a H/V works for me - I either lift the wood up to the beam, or go vertical when they get too big & do some sitting, squating or kneeling.

Whats the over/under on the pages before this thing dies?
 
Now you tell me... how do you lay those big rounds (weighing several hundred pounds) down and slide them into position under your vertical splitter?? Hmmmmm??
Me, I "noodle" about a third of the way through, set a wedge, and smack it once with that wooden-handled "metal thingy" in the pick... 9 times out'a 10 that will give me two halves I can convert to quarters with a couple swings of that wooden-handled "metal thingy" in the pic.

Hey Spidey, Why do you choose to noodle and wedge the big rounds, rather than use the tilt-to-side feature of your splitter?
 
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After watching the vid, I gotta say I like how all the controls work on that low-boy, and the auto-idle thing.

But there's no way my back could stand working it. It is very much the bending over that gets my back - and I don't have to be lifting anything while bent over. It doesn't stop me from doing a lot of work, but I have to lift with my knees & legs and avoid the bending. That why a H/V works for me - I either lift the wood up to the beam, or go vertical when they get too big & do some sitting, squating or kneeling.

Whats the over/under on the pages before this thing dies?

Not seeing beam height being a problem, as it would only take a few minutes to cut some cookies and drag it up on them to get it higher. Non issue really, ior get creative with some welded on trailer jacks maybe??

I know I would rather have a light weight adjustable one like that, because you only need one trip to go get the wood, and that is towing a trailer. You could throw that thing right up on your wood trailer along with your score, no towing two big things down to the tree, just one vehicle, one trailer, and still have room for plenty of saws/wood to bring back..and the splitter.

With that said, i split all by hand now, but if/when I go to a mechanical splitter, it will be that one, or something dang close. I watch my back all the time and have to lift correctly, so it doesn't matter to me low beam, high beam, in between. Lightweight and still do the job would be more important. Can't see going from two hundred lbs total weight, that could be loaded back up and hauled, not towed, to like half a ton or something, that has to be towed no matter what, to split the same wood.

I have used the big towable mambo one here with a log lift, it will bust 36" long piece or two 16-18s thrown in at the same time, pick up the biggest round you could get on the lifter, and sure, it will bust the big pieces..if you can get the big pieces to the splitter or the splitter to the big pieces..which sometimes would get to be a serious pain either way.

I towed it one time down to some big wood, not gonna do that again. Just doesn't go offroad real well, then you have to take it back, turn around, hook up a cargo trailer, go back and handle the splits all loose..nuts. Now one trip, instead of two, splits right into the trailer..that is way more reasonable and less handling involved.
 
Hey Spidey, Why do you choose to noodle and wedge the big rounds, rather than use the tilt-to-side feature of your splitter?

It's mostly a time thing and depends on the type of wood. I can jerk and roll some pretty big stuff onto the beam, but stringy, hard to split stuff just takes more time to do with the tilt-to-side. First you do one side, the roll the splitter around the other side, and then it still might not be completely halved so now you need to roll the round so you can catch it in another spot. Wood like Red oak is no problem, hit it on one side and you usually have two pieces, Bur Oak and American Elm is a different story... although I rarely have elm rounds I can't put on the beam, 30+ inch Bur Oak is fairly common. It's just flat faster to noodle 1/4-1/3 of the way through and give the wedge one or two hard whacks with a sledge/maul. Bur Oak is not easy to split with the grain (or end-to-end), ain't nothing straight-grained about it, but going cross-grain (or bark-side-to-bark-side) it will usually pop 'cause the wedge don't haf'ta follow ... and I'm willing to work a little bit harder to save a lot of time.
 
The one that I tried would not split 26 inch elm rounds without hitting them at least three times, some took several more cycles. It totally failed on the crotch... and we ended up cutting the stuck crotch off the wedge. It did pretty good on the straighter pieces of Bur Oak with only an occasional second cycling needed, but the twisted and knotty pieces gave it some trouble... and just like the elm, it failed to split the crotch.

Don't get me wrong, it got the job done... I'm just sayin' the need to use multiple cycles to make a split negated any speed advantage.

No it didn't...
There's nothing faster than an inertia splitter..
Period...
That's in "normal" wood...
Over 70% of the stuff I get is reject junk, that's the ONLY reason I went with a big hydro, and I'm not too pig headed to admit I MAY have been better off with the SS...
But see, it don't matter.. I take what I got, and make it the most productive rig I can, given its strong points, and avoid the weak points...
Just like you do...
That don't make it the best splitter in the world...
Just the best I could think up at the time...
 
Hedgerow,
Are you sayin' I look like this... :pig: ?? :msp_tongue:


The best splitter in the world?? I don't know if there is such a thing for all circumstances.
Like you, most of what I work is tough and gnarly... even the stuff that ain't supposed to be (such as ash) seems to be stringy, twisted and tough 'round here. And well over half of it is bigger and heavier than I can (or even want) to lift to the height of a Super Split. Now, if I had to halve or quarter the big stuff, load everything and haul it home in a pickup before splitting?? Well, splitting rounds/halves/quarters coming off a tailgate, I think a SS would be right up near the top of the list of picks... likely even at the top of the list. But than again... if I had to do that I'm not so sure I would do it at all... I just don't have the time, often working on the road during the week my weekends are pretty full.
 
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