Are the missing cutters all in a row?
I’ve never used TXL so cant comment to that.
I’ve never used TXL so cant comment to that.
How much chain do you use up before you retire a chain?
- Thread starter GrizG
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Huskitoter
ArboristSite Operative
I’d keep running it unless you see any issues.
svk says: Visegrips and a grinding wheel on a bench grinder. You can grind those stupid things off and you’ll have a standard semi chisel chain.
Right. I also happen to notice few years ago that I could grind them of using the vise grips and bench grinder method and have faster cutting chains.
Right. I also happen to notice few years ago that I could grind them of using the vise grips and bench grinder method and have faster cutting chains.
Huskitoter
ArboristSite Operative
Thinking the same. Thought the first one might want to cut in an arc when I saw the missing cutters, but it cut straight. Used it past what is shown in the first post.
The one thing is it's harder to sharpen them when they get really short unless the chain is tight - they want to roll back.
If ya really want to and I mean want to not need you can go to the saw shop and get a few presets or joining links/whatever they want to call them and hit them up for an off cut of chain. Just replace the single cutters soo get the preset and use a cutter on the other side of it. Use the hammer trick on a hard surface will only cost a few bucks. Other option is find some old chain in your man cave with cutters big enough
That sinking feeling when you know you hit something. Rolling the chain around looking and looking and bang there it is awww man alright how many you say to yourself then keep looking a couple then 10 then 15 awwww dam it most of the chain.
An hour later with full on wankers cramp your cutting again. Hahaha it helps ya be more careful though I reckon
Yeah... I hit an embedded j-bolt in the large ash being milled in my thumbnail... Did a lot of damage to the 114 driver chain...
If the rest of the cutters on that side are sharp it *should* cut straight. Only cuts an arc when all of the cutters on one side are substantially more dull that the other or if you have a worn bar it will flop one way and then keep arcing.
Yikes
I had to hand file the 81 DL chain that came with my 8500. Both sides rocked but one side really bad. That was enough work I cannot imagine doing a loop nearly 50 percent longer!
LOL right!!!
Gutted man well good file practice is atleast 1 positive I spose.
Also it will cut on the piss if all the rakers are longer on 1 side or teath are shorter however you want to see it.
If I am cutting yard/roadside trees I will dump them over and work from the top back down to the last 6' of trunk. Then do all of my other cutting and to wrap up the project I will buck the last few rounds out of the trunk and then finally flush the stumps.
Chains will cut pretty well even if there is a mismatch in tooth length as long as the tooth is sharp and the rakers are set to the same depth.
Sometimes! Mostly just nails from signs/birdhouses/etc.
I have been pretty lucky though. Have found lots of significant metal in my ashes that I had no clue where it came from!!
A little secret though....I keep one of my smaller saws set up with an 18" bar and 3/8" low profile chain that I use to buck up wood that has a high probability of containing surprises. Also for wood that has been skidded and the bark is loaded with grit. If I wreck one of them I can toss the chain and find another on clearance for under 10 bucks.
Nice man. Don't see those deals here unfortunately.
As I mentioned a few pages back, it is weird but I almost always end up rocking the flywheel side cutters on my chain. Must just be the way I hold the saw.
Cutting around my cabin is not bad as we are on a sandy hill that turns into clay soil closer to the lake. The terrain around my house is a total rubble field so rock damage happens, especially when cutting in the snow.
