how much more wood will i use in OWB

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zsteinmetz

ArboristSite Operative
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iowa
Hey I have just joined the site and have also just purchased a Wood Doctor OWB 8000 sQ ft model. I have access to both hardwoods and softwoods but here is my issue. The hardwood is downed White Oak in the woods means cutting, loading, hauling stacking etc. My mostly softwood (some hardwood mixed) reserve is scraps from a pallet factory. Basically cut into chunks and ready to throw in the boiler. I guess I'm wondering which would be easiest and most beneficial. I know it will take less hardwood to get through the winter but is it worth it? Appreciate any help.
 
Welcome to the site.
I have an owb that should be the same size you have. I heat a large house and shop. I find that I can get by with loading twice a day unless it is twenty some below at night and stays below zero all day. I burn mostly junk woods when it is up around 32 and then I try to use good oak for when its really cold. I would think you could get by with doing the same and burning the scraps in the warmer spells
 
If you can get an unlimited supply for little work I would think it would be a no brainer. The hardwood is great for a longer burn time and it makes a better coal bed than softer wood.
I burn both. Hardwood goes in on long cold nights. The softer wood goes in on top of the hardwood coal during the day when the heater does not run as much.
 
IMHO, You control how much wood you burn by the thermostat in your house or shed. Just because you have the OWB doesnt mean you have to keep in 80 in the house and in the garage unless you want to, but you are going to be throwing ALOT more wood in. I have shop that is 36x60 with a 14'6 ceiling, when it gets below 0 and I'm not in there it goes down to 50 the house stay around 70 and you can easily get 12-14 hour burn times with the hardwood, softwoods probably 10-12. I have a woodmaster 5500 which keeps a huge coal bed so i think that helps alot also. Keep the t-stat cranked and watch the wood dissappear or turn it down and find a lot of wood in the morning.
 
Hey thanks for the info guys do you notice a difference in smoke burning soft or hard?
 
OWB wood burning

Hmmm, in my experience of using an OWB in mild winter Oregon, my guess is that in cold winter Iowa you are going to burn everything that you can get your hands on, oak, scrap, hardwood, softwood, and whatever else. I mean it. Here were burn about 5 cords of mixed wood a year and every year we burn more than we think we would need, and every year about now we run low on dry seasoned wood. We burn and have burned these woods that grow here: willow, cottonwood, white and black oak, red and white alder, bigleaf and boxelder maple, Doug and grand fir, ponderosa pine, madrone, sycamore, chinkapin, apple, cherry, pear, plum, ash, cedar, and walnut. We also burn paper, scrap wood, junk mail, old furnature (I remove the plywood and strandboard first though, too much resin in that stuff), cardboard boxes, wet and green wood (I try to avoid these, but sometimes cannot help it; it all will burn in an OWB like yours). We usually burn a mix of seasoned and dry oak, madrone, alder, doug fir, and maple. Lately we have been buring grand fir (crappy for fuel) but a snag fell over in a storm last month, and it was dead and mostly dry.

We also have green wood in the racks for burning next year; pine (don't like it, but it was free), sycamore (ditto), and boxelder. I have racks to store 5 cords, and we have piles of wood out on the property (105 acres, 85 in timber) seasoning from windthrow, orchard pruning, thinning, and snags. This year we are going to make an effort to stack up a 2 year supply of firewood, and maybe we will get through a full cold season w/o having to hunt for more wood in winter. One guy on this list bought an OWB and piled up something like 80 cords... that is the way to do it. No questions about having enough for the winter or several winters. Keep the house whatever temperature you want for however many years you want. And laugh at the electric company.

I have found that the resinous woods like pine and fir smoke the most. Alder is probably my favorite. It is a medium light hardwood and smells good when it burns, and does not smoke a lot or build up a lot of creosote. Creosote will build up more if you burn bark, fir, pine, wet or green wood. Oak seems to coal up the most for us here. For the volume, oak, madrone, and hickory are 2x the heat value of light pine, willow, cottonwood, grand fir and the like. You will learn to go for the heavy hardwoods if you have an option. That oak there sounds like an energy money mine to me. I wood go after it. Have chainsaws, will travel...
 
In northern Pa we get 2 triaxle loads of logs per winter.

I would say get everything you can as they eat & are hungry.

being nice out i may post a picture of the start of next yrs firewood pile (about half) we will need more (twice that size) but its a nice start & give you some reference ;)

stovefrtfq0.jpg


stovesideke2.jpg
 
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This is my first winter with a boiler and I would have some of both around. Soft woods (mine is Sycamore) work OK in mild weather but would leave me short of fuel when zero or below. Of course this depends entirely on demand vs fuel capacity and how many times a day you wish to fool with it. My system was designed around twice a day filling and has worked perfectly in that reguard so far. Since we added to and took from our wood pile all winter total usage is a bit vague but the stockpile at the farm was 20 cord last fall and is probably 12 or so now so we are around 8 for the year heating home 20x24 shop and water. Boilers like anything else require a learning curve. It seems with mine that when I put in way too much wood for my twice a day fill schedule that it is mostly wasted but that may be in my head.
 
IMHO, You control how much wood you burn by the thermostat in your house or shed. Just because you have the OWB doesnt mean you have to keep in 80 in the house and in the garage unless you want to, but you are going to be throwing ALOT more wood in. I have shop that is 36x60 with a 14'6 ceiling, when it gets below 0 and I'm not in there it goes down to 50 the house stay around 70 and you can easily get 12-14 hour burn times with the hardwood, softwoods probably 10-12. I have a woodmaster 5500 which keeps a huge coal bed so i think that helps alot also. Keep the t-stat cranked and watch the wood dissappear or turn it down and find a lot of wood in the morning.


I agree 100%. I have a free heat machine 100, heats my shop , house hotwater. I get burntimes similar to these. This is with forced hot air heat exchangers. I wish I went with radiators in the house, most likely will next year. The large heat exchanger for the house really sucks the heat out of the water. The shop, not so much. Its all in the installation, and thermostat. :rockn:
 

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