How often do you dress the bar rails?

[nomad_archer]

So how often do you dress your bar rails? I have cut about 8 or 9 cords with a new bar and notices a very minor grove starting to form on bar rails near the nose sprocket and at the tail. I needed to deburr the bar and decided to dress the bar rails and remove the groove. So how often do you dress the bar rails? Is it something you do at a regular schedule or just when you notice wear or the bar needs deburred?

 

[Wood Doctor]

When I notice it, but I inspect the bar(s) every three or four truckloads of firewood. Thing is, I now have so many saws that sometimes several get used for one or two truckloads. I figure of it ain't broke, don't fix it.

When I sharpen the chain on any saw, I check the bar as well, but there is a big difference from one saw to the next in how they wear the bar. Also, noodle cutting and limbing seems to wear the bar down faster than simple bucking does.

 

[Philbert]

I look at the bar each time I take it off to replace a chain or clean the bar grooves. I look for chips and grooves, and feel for burrs forming with my thumbnail. Don't want to remove more metal than necessary.

I try to flip the bar each time to distribute wear.

If you are the type that files on the bar, and don't remove the chain until it is worn out, I would suggest at least checking for burrs each time you sharpen.

Philbert

 

[nomad_archer]

I sharpen on the bar but every time I sharpen or take the bar off I clean the bar groove. I flip the bar every time or two that I sharpen. I have been keeping an eye on the bar since I do not want it to get bad like the first bar I had. It took way to long to dress that bar and I want to avoid that misery in the future. So it looks like something I need to keep an eye on and address as necessary.

Another question. Is it normal that I have a little more wear right before the nose sprocket and also at the tail? It seems those areas wear a little more then then rest of the bar.

 

[Philbert]

The Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual http://www.oregonproducts.com/maintenance/manual.htm
has great info on diagnosing bar, chain, and sprocket wear. Simple, clear, illustrations.

Some wear is normal, especially, if you always cut in the same spot on your bar. Wear right before the nose sprocket may be due to a slightly loose chain, which tends to slap at that point.

Wear at the tail is also normal. Some guys recommend using as short a chain loop as possible, to keep the tail closer to the drive sprocket, to minimize this wear. This usually applies to longer bars, where chain 'stretch' is more of an issue.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Another question. Is it normal that I have a little more wear right before the nose sprocket and also at the tail? It seems those areas wear a little more then then rest of the bar.

I would say yes to this and the portion of the bar just ahead of the bumper spikes always wears faster than the rest. That's because you seldom use the full length of the bar through the entire cut unless you are noodle cutting. Most logs are round and generally a lot less in diameter than the bar length. Pressure is also at maximum just in front of the spikes. BTW, here is what I mean by noodle cutting:

 

[jus2fat]

I just use Stihl bars exclusively so I get about the same amount of wear from bar to bar.
( I think if you were to use different brands..you may likely see different wear from brand to brand )

I flip my bars routinely and I don't do 'plunge' cuts...so no 'cut-outs' to work the bar tip side-to-side cutting inside to out.
( thus...I haven't experienced any abnormal wear near the bar sprocket tip. My bars are seldom fully in the cut for more than seconds )

All that said...I just file the sides when I have the chain off and file the top(s) flat every now and then...mostly just a maintenance thing.

J2F

 

[nomad_archer]

I have had to do a few plunge cuts but not to many. I am using stihl bars and have gotten the same wear on my 16" as well as the 20" bar on this saw. I tend to keep the chain fairly taught but not to tight seems like there is a very fine line there.

 

[nomad_archer]

The Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual http://www.oregonproducts.com/maintenance/manual.htm
has great info on diagnosing bar, chain, and sprocket wear. Simple, clear, illustrations.

Some wear is normal, especially, if you always cut in the same spot on your bar. Wear right before the nose sprocket may be due to a slightly loose chain, which tends to slap at that point.

Wear at the tail is also normal. Some guys recommend using as short a chain loop as possible, to keep the tail closer to the drive sprocket, to minimize this wear. This usually applies to longer bars, where chain 'stretch' is more of an issue.

Philbert

Great info. It seems that according to that everything checks out as pretty normal since as it isnt significant wear differences.

 

[flyboy553]

I would say yes to this and the portion of the bar just ahead of the bumper spikes always wears faster than the rest. That's because you seldom use the full length of the bar through the entire cut unless you are noodle cutting. Most logs are round and generally a lot less in diameter than the bar length. Pressure is also at maximum just in front of the spikes. BTW, here is what I mean by noodle cutting:

You better get that saw outta there and get it some air! It's turnin' blue !

Ted

 

[Wood Doctor]

You better get that saw outta there and get it some air! It's turnin' blue !

Ted

I noticed that also. That's why I just bought an 046 Magnum that was sold as a non-running saw. I worked on it. Now it runs.

 

[jus2fat]

Definitely gonna pull a high number on the "You Suck-O-Meter"..!!

That saw really looks great...especially considering how old it is.

Winner...Winner...Chicken Dinner..!!

J2F

 

[Wood Doctor]

Definitely gonna pull a high number on the "You Suck-O-Meter"..!!

That saw really looks great...especially considering how old it is. Winner...Winner...Chicken Dinner..!!

J2F

I hate to add more hijacking to a Lurker's thread, but I thought I would let you know that I also just flipped a sawbuck for a dual-port muffler for this 046. Now it not only runs, but it screams. I decided to richen up the carb a little on both ends for fear of overheating. I think it will stay even with the Makita, even with its BBK.

OK, now, what were we talking about? Bar wear or bar dress? Dang, that barmaid had on a good looking dress last night. Forgive me, forum. Too much lousy weather around these days.

 

[SawTroll]

So how often do you dress your bar rails? .....

As needed - basically as soon as "wire edges" start to turn up.

 

[nomad_archer]

I hate to add more hijacking to a Lurker's thread

I dont mind the hijack I got the answers I needed. Maybe one day I can answer someones question. Right now I am still learning but I am on the right track.

 

[SawTroll]

I dont mind the hijack I got the answers I needed. Maybe one day I can answer someones question. Right now I am still learning but I am on the right track.

Take the chain off, and run a finger over the bar to search for "wire edges" each day you have used the saw. When satisfied, flip the bar over, to even out the wear.

You do of course have to file the chain as well, don't trust somone with a grinder to sharpen it!

 

[nomad_archer]

You do of course have to file the chain as well, don't trust somone with a grinder to sharpen it!

But the grinder is so much easier... Not really I am the guy with the grinder but I only use it when I need fix some damage on the chain. Otherwise I file with a jig and get better results. I file the chain after it comes off the grinder as well just to make sure everything is as it should be.

 

[milkman]

Ahha! so that's why some guys in videos are dragging their saw back and forth in the cut like a handsaw, keeping the wear even on the bar!!!

 

[SawTroll]

But the grinder is so much easier... Not really I am the guy with the grinder but I only use it when I need fix some damage on the chain. Otherwise I file with a jig and get better results. I file the chain after it comes off the grinder as well just to make sure everything is as it should be.

That's fine, if the grinder operator doesn't run it too fast, and "glaze" the chain. Filing is always better anyway, if done right - and then there are the rakers, that also needs to be set properly...

 

[nomad_archer]

That's fine, if the grinder operator doesn't run it too fast, and "glaze" the chain. Filing is always better anyway, if done right - and then there are the rakers, that also needs to be set properly...

No arguments here. I like a filed chain. Im not that good on the grinder but I just finished up the chain and gave it 4 passes with the file and the loop is back in business and nice and sharp.