Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Dude, I would so port it if I had a clue what it does and how to do it.
How To Become A Chainsaw Guru?
- Thread starter Ambull01
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Dude, I would so port it if I had a clue what it does and how to do it.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
True. I guess I have to go with the CS 590. Or I could get the 5020AV and the CS 590 TW then use my Homelite as my guinea pig/chainsaw repair patient.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just send it to randy and save your money instead of getting a new saw....
7
Wait a minute, are you talking about porting the crappy Homelite? Wouldn't that be like putting a huge muffler on a four cylinder Honda Civic?
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Great. 
Just started reading the material on the BC website. I'll probably never cut down another tree again. Reading about all the potential dangers just sole my courage/motivation. Guess I'll stick to things already on the ground and less than 8" in diameter.
Just started reading the material on the BC website. I'll probably never cut down another tree again. Reading about all the potential dangers just sole my courage/motivation. Guess I'll stick to things already on the ground and less than 8" in diameter.
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
Supercharger on a Borgward.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Don't be afraid.......just start small and work up.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
The best bit of information about this site that I can give you is this
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is that a good thing or not so good thing? Or is it similar to a big muffler on a Civic?
That sounds reasonable.
zogger
Tree Freak
Just keep plugging away and practice. Do easy trees first, then you can start doing the more difficult ones. I was a one small saw guy for decades, but since joining here I have upped my fleet (Ha!), plus learned a TON from the discussions on technique, then going out and practicing. I am a much better sawyer today.
Philbert has provided a lot of links, pay attention to them, all good.
If you got the scratch, the cs590 is pro built, split magnesium case, etc. The echo 620 is an even better built design in that same size/family, but you pay for it. The cs600 was their original one, so they stuck a cheaper one on one side, price point sawm, then a more advanced one on the other side. So you have three choices there, think of it like the options on a new ride...
The poulan is stratocharged (good modern design as regards fuel usage/economy/clean burning) and a decent saw as well, especially for two hundred out the door, but the echo is more power for a similar size package and weight. Once you got some cords under your belt, you will get a "Tim the Toolman" outlook on that.....
Biggest thing on chains is, do both sides the same, and no wiggling, nice even straight strokes with your file. Quality over quantity with file strokes. If you have a brand new chain to look at as you resharpen a used chain, that can help.
And then, with your wood cut, it needs splittin..mosey on over to firewood, and get in on the action there, the friendly discussions on axes and splitters..heheheheheheh
And the biggest thing on this site is..pics or it didn't happen!
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
To be honest, I may not have much of a chance to practice felling trees. I'm going to be a firewood scrounger so I assume most of wood I come across will already be on the ground. I'll just have to perfect my bucking and limbing technique.
Yeah I heard a lot of good stuff about the 590. I don't think I'll buy the more expensive Echo models, no real need for it. I don't really care if it takes me x amount of seconds longer to get through a log. It's strictly a hobby/winter fuel.
Probably shouldn't admit it here but I actually threw chains away once they were dull lol. Didn't trust myself sharpening them and for the price to get them professionally done I figured I'd just buy new ones.
I've been reading stuff there too. Also on the Homeowner Helper Forum. Great advice everywhere. This has to be one of the best sites I've ever come across. For splitting, I'm going to use the Fiskars X27 or whatever its called. My father in-law has a 22 ton splitter that I could use if I really needed it. I always enjoyed manual splitting though so I'll just do it the old fashioned way.
I've been searching Craigslist for some free wood. Found a lady about an hour away from me with supposedly oak that was cut down by a power company. Been lying in her yard since June I believe. They were supposed to return to get it but never did. Anyway, she says there's a lot of logs around 22" in diameter. I think my trusty little crappy Homelite could do it but it would be a workout. I used it to cut some big poplar, a oak, and an assortment of other trees but a row of hardwoods may be a bit too much. Plus I don't have a truck just an old '96 conversion van to haul it with. Could use my in-laws single axle trailer but I have National Guard training this weekend. AAhhhh! You ever get nervous about losing your potential free wood? Man I hope that lady holds it for me. May take multiple trips to get it all. Actually I'm not even sure if it's worth it to drive an hour for wood that will potentially take 2-3 years to fully season.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
hi neighbor lol. where ya at on the shore? PM me if ya want.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
What's up chicken necker! Or are you a bona fide local? I'm in Queen Anne County. You?
Oh yeah, a winch sounds like a great idea! Although I'll have to read about how to operate the winch while I'm concentrating on cutting the tree. The average IQ of a logger must be insanely high. Trying to figure this stuff out makes me feel like a dumb@$$
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm waiting to hear about you got your boot toes lowered.
Were you standing in the middle of a slash pile or something and couldn't get away in time?
Just curious.
Were you standing in the middle of a slash pile or something and couldn't get away in time?
Just curious.
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh my!
Well I am sure you have figured it out, but:
Never cut from a ladder
Never cut while in a tree, (unless you are an arborists and really know what you are doing)
Make friends with someone who is experienced and go with them a few times rather than blazing forth on your own.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
northern Dorchester born and raised..........also been a logger for 25 years here.
zogger
Tree Freak
I think you'll get it and do fine.
As for the hour;'s drive..only with a trailer, make the trips count. "Noodle" the bigger pieces to make lifting easier. Noodling is, cut piece laying on the ground, cut long ways right down with the grain. You get loooonggg chips then called noodles. Should be easy with a cs590 and a 20 inch bar on normal 16 inch blocked up wood. Also noodle nasty crotches and knots when hand splitting, no sense wearing yourself out and getting frustrated hand splitting when you have a saw. The fiskars flies in good clean straight wood..not so much with crotches and knots, use the saw. the fiskars also comes pre coated with teflon, but it eventually wears off, what I do is lightly spray the axe edge and sides with teflon spray, I get it at home despot, but you can order online as well, makers a big difference in not getting it stuck in a round and aids splitting. Well worth the 4 bucks a can. You can use the same on any axe or maul, helps a bunch, and keep it sharp.
Oh, split inside a tire! And use a low chopping block if possible.
OK, you grok "body armor" it's a good idea, with chainsawing, chaps or cutting pants, helmet, ear muffs, cutting boots..cheapest insurance you can buy, and the best insurance you can get is experience and keeping "situational awareness" as you cut. Biggest thing to remember is wood is always heavy and gravity *always* works, this helps you to read pinch points, etc. Just think, as you look at logs and trees, gravity is working, what happens when you remove wood-chips from cutting- from x location?
Grab some plastic felling wedges, you can use them blocking up big logs, slip them in the cut, the kerf, once past half way through or thereabouts, give em tap, helps to keep the bar from getting stuck.
Happy cutting and burning man, wood heat is the bestus! Try to get at least two years ahead, seasoning wood is like money in the bank accruing interest.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
you need to learn to file, its not that hard and it will make the day go by so much nicer. we will help you with it if you get stuck.
Ambull01
Addicted to ArboristSite
It was back in '10 or '11 I believe. Anyway, here's how it went. No $hit there I was .... lol No seriously, I was cutting the tree from a knee. I had no idea about face notches, back cut, etc. Guess I saw you're supposed to cut out a chunk from where you want the tree to go so I did that. Then I started to cut the tree from the other side, still in the kneeling position. The tree had a lean toward my house (lets call it east) but a lot of the branches were toward the west. Tree was right along the fence of my yard, neighbor's shed and in ground pool was nearby as well. Never heard of a hinge so I kept cutting until I reached the notch. Trunk slide off the stump and landed directly on my foot. Top part of tree fell to the west and landed on the neighbor's pool fence. No damage, except my steel toe boots. Praise Jesus I wore the steel toes that day, usually didn't.
Oh my!
Well I am sure you have figured it out, but:
Never cut from a ladder
Never cut while in a tree, (unless you are an arborists and really know what you are doing)
Make friends with someone who is experienced and go with them a few times rather than blazing forth on your own.
Yep, if I only knew then what I know now I may still have those trusty $20 steel toe boots.
There's logging operations on the eastern shore? Sooo, ummm, you guys ever have firewood grade stuff you need to get rid of?
