How to connect prussic to saddle while ascending?

[Kikori]

Hey Folks,

So I am practicing ascending into the tree using DRT with a prussic wrapped around both ends of my climbing line. I have the prussic wrapped around my line with 4 wraps then connected to a carabiner.

My question is then...What do you all use to connect your prussic to your saddle?

Thank you for all input.

Kikori

 

[Slvrmple72]

Carabiner use

I use a twist-lock carabiner to connect the prusic to my saddle. I use to use the screw-lock type but couple of times it got unscrewed or I forgot to screw it tight. Whatever you use just make sure it is the locking type:yoyo:

 

[Nathan666]

prusik wraps

Kikori, try taking only 3 wraps(6 coils) insted of 4 wrasps(8 coils) it will be a little less work for you and yes allways d-locking biner

 

[DonnyO]

no way

I use a twist-lock carabiner to connect the prusic to my saddle. I use to use the screw-lock type but couple of times it got unscrewed or I forgot to screw it tight. Whatever you use just make sure it is the locking type:yoyo:

Screw lock 'biners are not suitable for tree work.

 

[beowulf343]

Screw lock 'biners are not suitable for tree work.

They are not suitable for life support when in a tree. But i use them all the time for rigging.

 

[DonnyO]

They are not suitable for life support when in a tree. But i use them all the time for rigging.

I stand corrected.

 

[Slvrmple72]

I stand corrected.

Safety First! I was more of a newbie back then but with age comes experience. Plus, a wiser and more careful approach. Knew an older fella who used two biners opposed and felt safer with that then with one of those "new" locking type biners. Sometimes we are slow to embrace change, sometimes we adopt new things that have not been tested enough. I do a lot more reading and think things through more carefully. Carabiners have been in use for over 100 years now. Wonder what they will be like in another 100 years from now. Wonder more if there will be trees to use them in by then. Will not matter to me I will be fertilizer well before that:biggrinbounce2:

 

[RedlineIt]

I've always wondered why screw together quick links and clevises are AOK for life support, but screw-lock carabiners are out. If I can handle one, I can handle the other....


RedlineIt

 

[livinalaska]

Screw-lock vs. twist-lock

I must be old because I grew up with the screwlock biners and can't stand the twist-lock....ever. They are a pain in my backside. But I also, 100%, always make sure it's locked and I have never had a failure. I use them for all forms of climbing from mountains, buildings, to trees. I can't agree with the thought that they should never be used in tree work. However, if a newbie or someone not familiar with the screwlock or is new to climbing, then safety first and foremost. Don't let my mental block keep ya'all from being safe.

 

[newguy18]

whats the diffrence

hi my names bill howe and i was wondering what is the diffrence in the two carabiners you guys are talking about?i am trying to become a climber i have some climbing experiance but a lot of ground experiance and i am open to all kinds of advice.:newbie:

 

[SRT-Tech]

Hi Bill!

this is an AUTO-LOCK carabiner (the gate has a barrel that you pull, then twist open, and it SELF LOCKS when you let go of the barrel. To open it, you must pull the barrel up (or down depending on manufacturer), then twist it open before opening the carabiner gate.

this is a SCREW-LOCK carabiner, you must MANUALLY unscrew the barrel to open it, and MANUALLY screw it shut to close it:

There is a lot of HYSTERIA over screw gate carabiners for treeclimbing or other on rope activities, namely because one or two idiots out of a couple million rope users have forgotten very BASIC ROPE USE SKILLS and forgot to CHECK THEIR GEAR prior to going on rope. That being said, OSHA or WCB (canada) policies dictate the use of double locking or tiple locking biners, instead of screwgates.

 

[Slvrmple72]

I've always wondered why screw together quick links and clevises are AOK for life support, but screw-lock carabiners are out. If I can handle one, I can handle the other....


I think they look at the difference as brought up by Don Blair in his book Arborist Equipment. That difference being this... you see the gap in an open quick link or clevis but the screw lock biner closes and you do not readily notice if you have screwed the lock down or not. I wonder if anyone has done any tests of various climbing and rigging lines being pulled deliberately over the screw locks in the ccw direction with a heavy load on them to see how easily they grip the knurled barrel and open them up. I think the flat faces on the quicklinks and clevises would not provide enough purchase for the rope to open them up. I have enough trouble with a wrench on mine and thats before I drop the wrench.Safety lanyard? What safety lanyard:bang:

 

[SRT-Tech]

the number of times in the last 15 years of on rope use that i have had a screwgate biner open up by a rope running over the "screw", is ZERO.

I cannot say the same for double and triple autolocker biners. In some cases (on autolocks), the rope can be pressed against the barrel, and the barrel can shift downwards and then with movement the rope can twist the barrel into the open position. when the user shifts thier wieght aropund, the biner opens up. I have had this happen 9 times. Although they are more secure than most biners (they eliminate user error - not checking), autolockers are not the "ultimate" secure biner that everyone claims they are. They are good, but not the final solution in user safety.

the ultimate biner is one that is CHECKED BEFORE, DURING AND FREQUENTLY during use, be it a screwgate biner, autolocker biner, or Maillione Rapide screwlink.

 

[livinalaska]

I agree, I have never, ever had a screwgate open, and for some silly reason I didn't realize that the double/triple lock was a mandatory thing. I believe they have to intervene for the least common denominator and autolocking biners certainly can do that. Always account for safety first and use what you know, and as for advice to Bill, remember to slow down and do it right the first time, no matter what yer doin. Check and double check and then you can act with faith in your system.

 

[RedlineIt]

That difference being this... you see the gap in an open quick link or clevis but the screw lock biner closes and you do not readily notice if you have screwed the lock down or not.

slvrmple,

That would make sense except every screw-lock I've seen has a red mark on the gate that shows as soon as you open half a turn...something I've NEVER seen on a quick link that is about to open.

But I suppose I haven't seen every screw-locker ever made.



SRT-Tech,

Nice embedded pics for the self-described newbie. Nice job!



RedlineIt

 

[SRT-Tech]

thank you!

this is also for BILL:

these are screwlinks (only buy screwlinks that have the load rating stamped on them, and the logo "Mallione Rapide")

best one is the Pear shape, it is the most versitale, and has the strongest load rating of all the screwlinks. I routinely use the big fat 16mm Pear for rigging.