I've got alot of trees that I've had to vut down a a 1' stump and last year they came back. Is there any envirmentally friendly method to kill the stumps. I've been told to drill a 1/2" hole and put oil in, but don't really like that idea. Just want to kill the stumps.
How to keep stumps from growing
- Thread starter oldwild
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tomreeve
ArboristSite Member
I've heard that copper nails nailed into the stump will kill it. I have never tried it, so I don't know first hand. A little bit of garlan painted on the cambium of a freshly cut stump will kill it. It is not too bad and minimizes use of the herbicide
tom
tom
can't grind them out, one is the location of them, not able to get close to them, had to haul the logs and branches out by hand. two, the number of stumps i have it would kill me cost wise. I am hoping for an acceptable chemical method, other than oil.
treeman45246
ArboristSite Operative
on a fresh cut brush some roundup onto the cambium... it works well, but may be off-label ( I haven't checked)
treeman45246
ArboristSite Operative
that's when I would do it. Brush on the roundup right after you cut, within an hour or so and you should take care of the problem.
hooks
ArboristSite Lurker
rock salt on the stump rots them out in a few years. also ruins soil aroumd area for a while. not environmentally good
TheSurgeon
ArboristSite Operative
Lowe's sells some kinda "stump killer". Cost around five bucks. The only drawback is that you have to drill many holes into the stump, cheap alternative though.
TreeJunkie
ArboristSite Guru
Call a licensed arborist, if they have are certified chemical applicator they'll have just what you need. Forget about the garbage they sell at lowe's and the hardware stores. Most of that, even the round up sold to the public is nowhere near strong enough to kill off tree stumps.TheSurgeon said:
Certain chemicals are only allowed in certain states. In my state we primarily use Tordon.
Sometimes if you want things done the right way the first time around you need to hire a professional. Consulting w/ a licensed chemical applicator as to what your best solution is.
TheSurgeon
ArboristSite Operative
TreeJunkie
He said he doesn't have that kind of money. Why not just call in a couple helicopters and rip 'em out.
He said he doesn't have that kind of money. Why not just call in a couple helicopters and rip 'em out.
treeman45246
ArboristSite Operative
Tordon is great, but it is only available to a licensed professional and it moves through the environment too readily, often killing thin-barked species in the vicinity. This guy is a homeowner looking for a cheap solution. I should have specified concentrate roundup, brushed onto the fresh cuts. This would do the job, IMO.
Monkeywitha_saw
ArboristSite Lurker
I use copper sulfate on palo verde, mesquite and palm tree stumps and have not had any of the try to regrow or sprout. The stuff can be bought at the hardware store or pumbing store its made to dry up the roots in sewer lines and it comes in granells or liquid form so just drill stump and pour on
TreeJunkie
ArboristSite Guru
It wouldn't be that expense to hire a licensed applicator to come out and treat the stumps. It would save having to attempt to get commercial grade roundup. I'm not too sure if you all have priced it either. Last i checked it's not exactly cheap. Tordon however is, I know there is possibility of crossover contamination. You just need to use it spairingly and be aware of surrounding trees which may share root systems. I'm aware of several of my family members who have been using the product for many years; not once have i heard of it affecting other trees. Use your head and things go well.
hooks
ArboristSite Lurker
oldwuld no need to drill holes in stump. just put om top of stump. rain and snow will soak it into the stump. lowes does sell stump out. its nothing more than exspensive rock salt.
I live on what could be called an Osage Orange farm. They're everywhere. Problem is if I cut one down, the following year I have to contend with an eight foot bushy shrub.....complete with killer thorns.
Last year I cut down a smallish tree (had to use a frontend loader to push it over enough to even get near it) and then scored the trunk. I sprayed along the inside of the bark (cambium layer?) and also filled the scores just for grins. I used a spray can of Roundup that was labeled for woody plants. I found it on sale for next to nothing and bought about a dozen, I tried it on some poison ivy and some smaller trees also that day. Zero regrowth on any.
I would think UNDILUTED Roundup (I think the ultra is more concentrated) would work the same.
Last year I cut down a smallish tree (had to use a frontend loader to push it over enough to even get near it) and then scored the trunk. I sprayed along the inside of the bark (cambium layer?) and also filled the scores just for grins. I used a spray can of Roundup that was labeled for woody plants. I found it on sale for next to nothing and bought about a dozen, I tried it on some poison ivy and some smaller trees also that day. Zero regrowth on any.
I would think UNDILUTED Roundup (I think the ultra is more concentrated) would work the same.
tshanefreeman
ArboristSite Operative
Round-up is intended for foliar application. It is applied in a diluted liquid form to the leaves of the intended plant. The chemical is absorbed and travels down through the cambial tissue of the plant or tree in question and as a result kills the root system.
So if you are going to have any degree of success killing off your stumps with the use of Round-up, you will have to paint the undilluted concentrate onto the cambial region of the stump. You will also have better results if you paint on the concentrate immediately after you make a fresh cut on the stump. I would recommend a minimum of 1-2 inches off of the top. This will expose the moist cambial tissue found on the outer edge of the stump. The idea of making the fresh cut is done for the same reason why we make fresh cuts on our xmas trees before submerging them in water. Through the exposure of fresh tissue, we better the chances for successful uptake! I wouldn't waist your time and money painting the chemical on the center/heartwood region of the stumps. This region is moreless inactive and simply provides mechanical stability for the trees in question.
So if you are going to have any degree of success killing off your stumps with the use of Round-up, you will have to paint the undilluted concentrate onto the cambial region of the stump. You will also have better results if you paint on the concentrate immediately after you make a fresh cut on the stump. I would recommend a minimum of 1-2 inches off of the top. This will expose the moist cambial tissue found on the outer edge of the stump. The idea of making the fresh cut is done for the same reason why we make fresh cuts on our xmas trees before submerging them in water. Through the exposure of fresh tissue, we better the chances for successful uptake! I wouldn't waist your time and money painting the chemical on the center/heartwood region of the stumps. This region is moreless inactive and simply provides mechanical stability for the trees in question.
Shane, When I scored, and sprayed into the notches...I wondered how it could have any effect. It doesn't....is that what you're saying? ( I'll quit that part of the process, if I understand you correctly)
I had my camera this morning and checked the stump in the above attached image. SORRY...I was wrong. There WAS a bit of regrowth...but nothing compared to normal:
