mattmc2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
What is a good way to remove carbon build up in the combustion area and the exhaust port of the cylinder? I have a 51 im rebuilding, and its pretty nasty. Any ideas?
How to remove carbon buildup?
- Thread starter mattmc2003
- Start date
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I have seen bottles of Stihl decarbonizer at the dealer but haven't tried it myself. Gimmick? Maybe someone on here who has used it will chime in.
Wet1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just use a little Seafoam on a rag or brass brush (soak it on for a couple of minutes first), but you might want to consider leaving the carbon in the combustion chamber since it does raise compression. 
I use a small screwdriver and scrape it from the exhaust port. I have a small wire brush I chuch up in a drill to remove it from the combustion chamber. It does nothing to hurt the NiSi or chrome. The only place it doesn't get is right up next to the spark plug hole.
cjcocn
Tree Freak
With the cylinder off, I put the plug back in, turned the cylinder upside down and balanced it on a screwdriver handle. Then I sprayed inside the cylinder with carb cleaner until the cleaner reached the ports.
I let that sit overnight and then wiped it out with a rag the next day.
For the exhaust port, I used an old margarine container, sprayed enough carb cleaner in it to cover the whole of the exhaust port (with the cylinder turned on its side), and let that sit overnight as well.
I also sprayed some on the outside of the cylinder, let it sit for a about 15 minutes, then rinsed it off with brake cleaner, and dried it with compressed air.
The overnight soaks may not have been required, but I was waiting for parts and had the time.
HTH
I let that sit overnight and then wiped it out with a rag the next day.
For the exhaust port, I used an old margarine container, sprayed enough carb cleaner in it to cover the whole of the exhaust port (with the cylinder turned on its side), and let that sit overnight as well.
I also sprayed some on the outside of the cylinder, let it sit for a about 15 minutes, then rinsed it off with brake cleaner, and dried it with compressed air.
The overnight soaks may not have been required, but I was waiting for parts and had the time.
HTH
stihl only
ArboristSite Operative
I really doubt it is a gimmick. Have some here, but haven't used it yet. In time, I'm sure I'll give it a try. I think it came about mostly for use on 4-Mix products owned by customers too "thrifty" to run HP Ultra oil. The 2 cycle gas can carbon the valves up pretty bad.
I have used GM top engine cleaner on engines when the heads are off and it is like magic. Put enough in the cylinder to cover the piston, and the next AM, the carbon was just floating on the top. If it is still available, I know it works great.
Simple Man
ArboristSite Operative
I just use a little Seafoam on a rag or brass brush (soak it on for a couple of minutes first), but you might want to consider leaving the carbon in the combustion chamber since it does raise compression.
:agree2:
I use the seafoam in my tractor, boat engine, truck and about every engine I have. That is good stuff. I mixed two cans of seafoam into 2 gallons of gas for my outboard engine. Before I started running it I took out the spark plug and looked inside the cylinder and it was all carboned up really bad and the sparkplugs was almost black. I ran my boat until the 2 gallons had ran through the engine and then removed the spark plug again. I was amazed to see a cylinder that looked brand new and a spark plug as shiny as the day it was new. Seafoam is some good stuff!
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
I have used a hammer and a cold chisel on some before, just keep going till you see shiny metal. Clean all debris out of the cylinder and reassemble. I have decided that I'm going to leave the carbon in them from now on. They just don't seem to run as good after getting all the carbon out, accually, some I still haven't got running!!! So, I think the carbon is a good thing!!!!
:notrolls2::hmm3grin2orange:
:notrolls2::hmm3grin2orange:My Idea is the best (I think!)
Go to your local Gun Store and get the best Gun cleaner they sell.
Ask 'em if you have to. About things like, What works best for carbon buildup, what's safe for coatings, etc.
Personally, I like Castrol "Gun Scrubber" It sprays out like shaving cream, and sloooooowly oozes down the cylinder taking most/if not all the carbon (depending on how bad your saw is)
Next best is Good Ol' Hoppes #9 Bore Solvent. It's a liquid but works just as well in the end. Albeit with more applications.
Both removed carbon Very well and didn't harm any coatings/painted surfaces they came in contact with.
Try it, I think you'll like it!
Go to your local Gun Store and get the best Gun cleaner they sell.
Ask 'em if you have to. About things like, What works best for carbon buildup, what's safe for coatings, etc.
Personally, I like Castrol "Gun Scrubber" It sprays out like shaving cream, and sloooooowly oozes down the cylinder taking most/if not all the carbon (depending on how bad your saw is)
Next best is Good Ol' Hoppes #9 Bore Solvent. It's a liquid but works just as well in the end. Albeit with more applications.
Both removed carbon Very well and didn't harm any coatings/painted surfaces they came in contact with.
Try it, I think you'll like it!
cjnspecial
ArboristSite Guru
I just run stihl ultra and it burns it out of there after a few tanks.
olyeller
ArboristSite Guru
Do you like popsicles?
Back in the day with my old two-stroke bikes, I used popsicle sticks to decarbonize the combustion chambers and piston tops. These sticks have a nice rounded shape and won't mar the aluminum like a screwdriver or other metal tools might. Use some solvent, popsicle sticks and elbow grease. If you have a Stihl, I suppose you could use creamsicle sticks!
Here's wishing you good eating and good cleaning!
Back in the day with my old two-stroke bikes, I used popsicle sticks to decarbonize the combustion chambers and piston tops. These sticks have a nice rounded shape and won't mar the aluminum like a screwdriver or other metal tools might. Use some solvent, popsicle sticks and elbow grease. If you have a Stihl, I suppose you could use creamsicle sticks!
Here's wishing you good eating and good cleaning!
stone69er
ArboristSite Operative
Spray on gasket stripper,its also designed to remove carbon deposits.
TheRickster
ArboristSite Operative
If it is apart soak it in BerryMan Chemdip or spary it down with Aircraft Paint stripper inside. The ChemDip worls the best and when you take it out and rinse it will look like new..
Rick
Rick
galde
Addicted to ArboristSite
I tried the Stihl decarbonizer on a Husq 455 that was dropped off yesterday. It made 50 lb on the comp tester, and I expected to see evidence of straight-gassing when I pulled the muffler. The piston and jug looked fine other than the carbon on the upper part of the piston, but the single ring was carbon-locked in the groove. I covered the piston crown with the juice and let it sit overnight. Today I drained and flushed with fuel and it now makes 160 lb and starts and runs like new.
Rubber duck
ArboristSite Member
These are great ideals the Best thing and leaves you cylinder coated to are ready to assemble is good ole WD-40 and coats the cylinder so you don't have the white Crystal's after washing I use dawn dishdetergant and dry quick with hairdryer or air compressor Now for leaving carbon in it man that stuff can flake off and score your new pistion rings or if you have cleaned polished a good used pistion and cylinder carbon is as hard as diamonds 
always a good ideal to remove carbon build up compression will build after a rebuild full or top end after a few tanks of mixed fuel has been run through it if rebuild is done properly I have seen a lot of people rebuild one and pull on rope after reassemble and say man this thing is a compression monster LMAO that's from the assembly oil or I prefer 2 cycle oil as a lubricant for a reassemble sense that's what is going g keep everything lubed anyways( If I tell y'all a pass ant will eat a bale of hay feed the little fellow he's hungry ) that's why I like this site 2 heads are better than 1 and we all learn something new everyday I just putter and rebuild old sthil wood 
beavers for a hobby and friends and family and have learned a lot from these ole timmers and professionals on here Thanks everyone just telling you what I know and works for me. The Rubber Duck over and out.
always a good ideal to remove carbon build up compression will build after a rebuild full or top end after a few tanks of mixed fuel has been run through it if rebuild is done properly I have seen a lot of people rebuild one and pull on rope after reassemble and say man this thing is a compression monster LMAO that's from the assembly oil or I prefer 2 cycle oil as a lubricant for a reassemble sense that's what is going g keep everything lubed anyways( If I tell y'all a pass ant will eat a bale of hay feed the little fellow he's hungry ) that's why I like this site 2 heads are better than 1 and we all learn something new everyday I just putter and rebuild old sthil wood beavers for a hobby and friends and family and have learned a lot from these ole timmers and professionals on here Thanks everyone just telling you what I know and works for me. The Rubber Duck over and out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1544297062...0kglSXFLHqWtITSrBZzUnZ7sc=|tkp:Bk9SR_7s6pzXYQ
this works well and no need to pull the cylinder
this works well and no need to pull the cylinder
Rubber duck
ArboristSite Member
Believe I will try this stuff ac delco makes good stuff.
Ultrasonic cleaner and ct14 solution it literally took every bit of carbon and varnished fuel off everywhere. The ring lands came out gleaming and they are the areas I hate doing the most by hand. 
