How to take it down?

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MK19

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Tahuya, WA
We have this Red Alder in the back of our property that has begun to lean and is very close to our chain-link fence. Our worry is that, given it's height (45-50'), if and when it falls, it will destroy the fence and may hit the house. Not being a highly skilled individual with a saw, what recommendations; short of hiring a pro, does everyone recommend in falling this tree safely? Thanks.

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Either pull out your phone book and wallet or take the fence down.
 
do you have rope? do you think you could get a rope into the tree. Say about 3/4 the way to the top? actually something that small could away with just above half way. use a come along to pull it backwards. my opinion and opinion only. do at your own risk.
 
do you have rope? do you think you could get a rope into the tree. Say about 3/4 the way to the top? actually something that small could away with just above half way. use a come along to pull it backwards. my opinion and opinion only. do at your own risk.

I have a fair amount of rope and yes, I have a come-along as well. This is an idea I had toyed with, but I am hoping there is a more direct solution. Thanks tho, I will keep it in mind.
 
Aside from climbing the tree and getting a rope around it or climbing it and taking it down one piece at a time by yourself, you best call someone who can.
just my 2cents.
 
Jump it right off the stump the hell with taking the fence down you can do it without doing that , or maybe if you wanna be sure just take out the top rail..
 
Could probably take it at the fence or just take the fence down as others have mentioned. Either way it seems like it has a heck of a lean so don't stop to smell the roses with that backcut.
 
Could probably take it at the fence or just take the fence down as others have mentioned. Either way it seems like it has a heck of a lean so don't stop to smell the roses with that backcut.

Nah just the touch of the chain and she's gonna pop like a cannon , maybe jsut a little walk down
 
It will probably hit the fence no matter what you do, unless you have an arial bucket.
It you don't make the right felling cuts you could get hurt, because it could barber chair on you.
If you want to fell it, just make a shallow undercut, about 1/4 the diameter, plunge the heart out behind the hinge then do the backcut as fast as you can.
John
 
I would consider using a rope and a 1/4" saw chain with two people, one on each side, and trimming it in short sections. It won't take much of a cut for it to break. Just take small pieces and drink beer. I think with a slingshot, some twine and a 7/8" lug nut you could get a piece of twine in the tree to pull a rope up.
 
stack your wood pile up against your fence ,maybe 1-2ft higher,if,and when it hits the fence the pile should protect it.

as for cutting it.............
 
Hmmmm... is it really as close to the fence as it appears to be? It appears to be almost touching it. If so, you could make your felling cut a little above the fence and it shouldn't hit the fence.

If you don't like that option, then take the top bar out of the fence, unattach the fence from the poles for 15-20 feet in both directions, then you should be able to twist the fence to lay flat on the ground. Cut to your hearts content now (just watch for the barber chair).
 
The safest bet is to remove the fence as others have suggested. The fence mesh is terminated at the post in the right corner of photo #1. Remove the 5/16" carriage bolts, tension bands and bar. Cut off the tie wires and roll back the mesh to the third pole. Now remove the brace band and the top rail. Top rail is typically in 21' sections. Look for a swedged end or coupling where two sections of top rail are joined together. Removing and reinstalling the fence should take less than an hour.
 
The safest bet is to remove the fence as others have suggested. The fence mesh is terminated at the post in the right corner of photo #1. Remove the 5/16" carriage bolts, tension bands and bar. Cut off the tie wires and roll back the mesh to the third pole. Now remove the brace band and the top rail. Top rail is typically in 21' sections. Look for a swedged end or coupling where two sections of top rail are joined together. Removing and reinstalling the fence should take less than an hour.

Wow, I didn't even catch that there was a joint in the fence there. Good call on that. One question though, why would he need to roll the fence back to the third post? Why not just roll it back far enough that the tree will clear? You can still remove the top rail even if you haven't taken the fence all the way back past it.
 
Wow, I didn't even catch that there was a joint in the fence there. Good call on that. One question though, why would he need to roll the fence back to the third post? Why not just roll it back far enough that the tree will clear? You can still remove the top rail even if you haven't taken the fence all the way back past it.


Yes you can roll it back just far enough to clear. I was just playing it safe by suggesting going back to the third post from the right. Doesn't make much sense to go through the trouble of removing too little and having the tree hit it anyway. :)
 
I don't think you should mess around with come-a-longs and the such, those paper birch in the background look pretty spindly and generally too much can go wrong. It really doesn't want to go that way.

If you wind up taking the fence down and falling it, treat it like it's going to explode as others have noted. If you think it might hit the house I wouldn't mess with it at all. Insurance claims are a huge headache.
 

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