Huskee/Speeco 22T won't start in the cold (even mild cold)

[kodiak]

Picked up a Huskee 22T with the B&S 675 engine a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday was the first chance I had to really split some wood with it.

Pulled it out of the 35° garage and commenced to trying to get it started. It took literally 150 pulls alternating between priming and pulling and drying the plug before it finally kept running on its own. I even read the owners manual for their starting suggestions (prime 3x, pull 6x, repeat). Once it started, it restarted just fine throughout the day.

Move ahead to today and a little warmer temps and sure enough, the same starting issues. Came in and looked around AS for similar problems and found one user that said hitting the primer 10x before pulling worked better for him but it was still difficult to start. I did try more priming and seemed to get it to catch a little more often but it was certainly not the silver bullet.

I changed the oil as soon as I got it to synthetic 5W-30 to try to help with cold weather starting. TSC said they use 20W hydraulic fluid.

Anyone else have starting issues like this with this splitter? I realize this is an opening price point unit but come on, a splitter engine that doesn't like to start in near freezing temps???

I'm going to go have a beer and try to calm my nerves a bit before I push this POS into the firepit:angry2::angry2:

 

[gulity1]

I have the 35 ton husky/speedco model with the techsuma (sp?) engine on it and it has a hard time starting even in warm weather. Aussuming that you have no mechanical problems could be that you are trying to pull over cold/cool hydraulic fluid very had to do you can either warm the fluid with a kersone heater and maganitic block heater or what i have done in the past is get 2 metal trash cans lids throw in 5-8 charcoal briquets and start a fire in the lid then cap with other lid DONT DO THIS A GARAGE OR NEAR FALAMABLES just an idea for what its worth I have used the trash lid idea to warm up construction equipment and other diesel equiment in the very cold winter works just have a fire extingisher handy just in case. works best with the bottom lid handle removed and maybe beat a little so it lays flat

Check out the engine see if its geeting fuel pull the plug is wet? Check the spark, pull the plug and reconect to the coil wire and ground to metal engine cover etc and check spark ? Just a couple of ideas.

If its fast, its expensive

 

[reaperman]

One trick that sometimes works for a fussy engine is to remove the spark plug and heat it up with a lighter or match, then try to start it. I know it sucks when a engine wont start like it should. Just remember the old phrase: " If it has tits or tires, it will give you trouble"!

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Have you tried a new plug? Or a plug from another piece of equipment you have that does start normally? I'd go there first.

Another thing is to check the choke. I know you said the plug was wet but I have seen a BUNCH of equipment in recent years that the cables were NOT adjusted correctly. Neighbor had a Deere riding mower that he always cranked and cranked on. One day I got sick of hearing it and walked over. We opened the hood and took the air cleaner off and the butterfly had about a 1/4 gap from closed. Adjusted it to full shut and it starts within 5 seconds now.

From there I'd check compression. Loose headbolts are common problem. If that checks out along with choke your down to ignition parts.

 

[kodiak]

OP here, there are a couple things I should point out.
- The machine is new and has had a total of 3 tanks of gas run through it which was yesterday.
- There is no choke, only a primer bulb.
- There is spark as it will fire every once in a while, but when it does it dies after 2-3 seconds
- This problem only exists when it has been stored in temps around 35-40 degrees. I've left it in my heated garage overnight and it starts fairly easily.

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Any ideas related to the cold weather? Anyone else have this issue with this model?

 

[utilityman]

I have the same wood splitter. All of the newer engines are getting away from a manual choke and just using the primer bulb. I keep mine outside all the time. I just keep a peice of plywood over the engine. The trick to starting it is to pump the primer bulb maybe up to 20 times on the coldest days. You will know when you have primed it enough because it will fire on the first pull. I also use startron ethenol treatment in all my small engines. Dollar for dollar this is a great little splitter for the price.

 

[Mosby]

I have the same problem with both my splitter(different splitter) and my chipper. Not only difficult but to start when cold but the process is simply too time consuming and frustrating for me. I just bought a magnetic block heater and I am going to use a propane heater to warm the area up a little before I need to get them started.

My detached garage that I store them in is uninsulated and not heated. I am going to insulate in the spring and I am working on a solution to get some better heat in it after I insulate, just to make it easier on my equipment and hopefully easier on me as well.

Switching to a 5W-30 is something I am doing as well but my primary solution long term is to store my equipment in a warmer environment FWIW.

 

[doobie57z]

yup.II have to pump the primer at LEAST 10x, but I call cold 20 degrees or less. I used atf instead of hydro fluid. Also check these suggestion...http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/186727.htm

 

[kodiak]

A number of you suggest hitting the primer bulb 10-20 times before pulling. Doesn't this run the risk of flooding? How do you know if you've pressed it too many times? I don't know how many times I pulled the spark plug yesterday and it was literally dripping with fuel.

 

[76mark]

I picked up the Huskee 22T last week and had the same problem over the weekend. I almost have up on it by the time it finally started. Earlier in the week when it was warmer it started 1-2 pulls.

 

[zogger]

Man, take it back if you bought it new. That's ridiculous. Haul it over on a cold morning and get the dealer to try and start it. Sounds like it has a maladjusted carb, bad carb, something. Maybe there is a different carb will mount to it, one with a real choke. If it was electric start and in a pinch you can always do the hold a piece of wood or cardboard over the intake as a field expedient choke, but really, you shouldn't have to hassle with a new piece of equipment like that. Yes, you could heat it up ahead of time, any number of ways to do that. But you shouldn't have to. Who knows, maybe the timing is off, maybe it is the wrong plug, or gapped incorrectly.

And modern gas just sucks. It just does. it has to evaporate to work, and cold makes it not want to evaporate.

I've never run Av gas, but maybe a spash or two mixed into normal pump gas might help it. Wouldn't use much though, salt to taste.

Ha! I remember one day I was working a job in Maine, had an old 62 valiant with the slant six. 20 something below, as in freeking no fooling around cold. NONE of all the other guys rides would start (staying at an inn, mix of construction workers and loggers there). They all razzed me previously on my (literally) hundred dollar junker. It wasn't a big macho he man V8 muscle car or giant 4wd pickup.

I jump started everyone that morning! I did that twice so far in my previous rides experience, once with that valiant, another time with a 74 dart here in Atlanta on a very rare below zero day when staying at a townhouse with neighbors, same engine. Those slant sixes just worked. You know those real cold days when the air in the tires condenses and all your tires get semi flat until you drive on them and warm them up? bumpitybumpitybumpity down the road a coupla miles before they "round back out'? One of *those* days. Zee-ro of those guys rides would start without a jump.

Not all engines and carbs are created equal when it comes to cold weather starting!

Final thought, your splitter being new, the engine isn't broke in yet, that will make it harder to start until it is.

Then there's always a shot of ether..I don't like using it, but will admit I have had to resort to it in the past (not the slant sixes though)

 

[Richard Dupp]

Picked up a Huskee 22T with the B&S 675 engine a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday was the first chance I had to really split some wood with it.

Pulled it out of the 35° garage and commenced to trying to get it started. It took literally 150 pulls alternating between priming and pulling and drying the plug before it finally kept running on its own. I even read the owners manual for their starting suggestions (prime 3x, pull 6x, repeat). Once it started, it restarted just fine throughout the day.

Move ahead to today and a little warmer temps and sure enough, the same starting issues. Came in and looked around AS for similar problems and found one user that said hitting the primer 10x before pulling worked better for him but it was still difficult to start. I did try more priming and seemed to get it to catch a little more often but it was certainly not the silver bullet.

I changed the oil as soon as I got it to synthetic 5W-30 to try to help with cold weather starting. TSC said they use 20W hydraulic fluid.

Anyone else have starting issues like this with this splitter? I realize this is an opening price point unit but come on, a splitter engine that doesn't like to start in near freezing temps???

I'm going to go have a beer and try to calm my nerves a bit before I push this POS into the firepit:angry2::angry2:

I have the exact same splitter (Huskee 22T) and on a cold start, after five plunges on the primer it starts first, second or third pull. Only time I have to pull several times is when I let it run out of gas, so I try to refuel now before that happens and it restarts easily. I have not tried it below 20 F, but in the twenties, it starts fine.

I know this is not much help diagnosing the problem, but mine seems to start well, so I do not suspect it to be a wide-spread problem with the splitter.

 

[kodiak]

I have the exact same splitter (Huskee 22T) and on a cold start, after five plunges on the primer it starts first, second or third pull. Only time I have to pull several times is when I let it run out of gas, so I try to refuel now before that happens and it restarts easily. I have not tried it below 20 F, but in the twenties, it starts fine.

I know this is not much help diagnosing the problem, but mine seems to start well, so I do not suspect it to be a wide-spread problem with the splitter.

Once the engine catches, do you have to continue to hit the primer bulb or does it stay running? Also, where do you have the throttle set at? The manual says put it at full for a cold start so that's what I've been mainly doing.

 

[kodiak]

Another thing I should mention is that the fuel is new 92 octane non-ethanol. Same stuff I run in all my other power equipment.

 

[EXCALIBER]

I often wondered how some of these splittlers started in the cold, many I see have no way of disconnecting the hydraulic pump from the engine to aid in starting it. That is one of the reasons I bought a swisher splitter, it has a belt that runs from the hyd pump to the engine, and another pulley on a sliding shaft that tensions the belt. When its colder than a well diggers butt I simply turn the fuel on, pull the sliding shaft out disconnecting the hyd pump, pump primer bulb a handful of times, then usually it starts first pull. I let the engine warm a few seconds then slowly engage the hyd pump. I have also sometimes forgot to disconnect the hyd pump before I pulled the cord, and the cold fluid will yank the dang rope right out of your hand, or slow your pull down so much that you know you are not going to get it started that way.

 

[kodiak]

Does anyone else switch out the hydraulic fluid in the winter just for easier starts? Seems like kind of a waste but if that's what it takes...

 

[Whitespider]

Another thing I should mention is that the fuel is new 92 octane non-ethanol. Same stuff I run in all my other power equipment.

I find that most small 4-cycle engines run better and start easier using ethanol-free 87-octane fuel, 2-cycles like the higher octane. The octane rating is simply the "resistance to ignition", higher octane resists ignition longer, meaning a higher octane fuel requires a hotter spark and/or higher compression and/or a more advanced ignition timing than a lower octane fuel.

From what you describe, I'm leaning towards weak or retarded ignition spark. (Re)setting the coil gap closer to the flywheel, a new plug and a lower octane fuel may solve the problem (or at least it has for me several times).

 

[frogg]

i have the same splitter.... here`s what i do use only 93 gas i all my equip. give it a shot of starting fluid works every time. mine still has the same hydro. that came from tsc.
i use 10/30 oil never had any problems.

cm

 

[lost in woods]

I have the same splitter, bought it about 4 weeks ago. And run 87 octane. So far it starts ok. I split wood on a cold morning about a week ago, temp in upper teens, lower 20s. I primed it more than 3x's though , maybe 6x's.

 

[shelbythedog]

i have the same splitter.... here`s what i do use only 93 gas i all my equip. give it a shot of starting fluid works every time. mine still has the same hydro. that came from tsc.
i use 10/30 oil never had any problems.

cm

Quick shot of starting fluid works well for me. If the engine has no choke, you might try putting your hand over the carb intake to act as a choke and give it a tug, just leave a small amount uncovered. EPA must not like a manual choke because we would all forget to take it off and split all day with the engine chugging along like a steam locomotive and having 2 minute cycle times. Glad they are lookin out for all of us.