Husky 240 E- Series carb setting question

[Snowcat]

Got this complete Husky 240 E-Series X Torq that will start but, it won't stay running, I've dumped the gas put fresh Husky pre-mix in it, pulled muffler (piston looks great), compression is 150+psi, the saw will start but not stay running ordered a Husqvarna (carb gasket kit) with needle and seat and springs, anybody have a base carb setting to get this darn thing started long enough to adjust? The saw has spark but, (verified by pulling plug and pulling seeing actual SPARK on PLUG, I can't seem to keep it running very long, the only other idea I have is maybe the primer bulb is causing issues???
Its a little baby saw but its driving me NUTS!!! Ive got a bunch of other saws all run.... FRUSTRATED TO say the least LOL...

 

[irhunter]

Do you have the shop manual for the saw?

Roy

 

[Snowcat]

I do NOT, I wish I did.....

 

[irhunter]

Go to the Beg for Manual thread...

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...r-manuals-thread.68615/page-1630#post-7402351
Ask there for a shop manual and IPL...the nice guys there will fix you up.

Roy

 

[North by Northwest]

Start with 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 out from gently seated to get you in the ball park with the h& l jets . Ensure you have cleaned out all carb fuel circuits thoughly 1st ..good luck !

 

[Snowcat]

Thanks for the carb starting point settings (Broken) I posted in the Beg for manual thread, apparently there are NO manuals for the 240 E-Series out.... (irhunter) unless someone else knows they are available??

 

[irhunter]

No...I don't know about the manual...I just assumed all modern saws had them. Husky used to put basic carb adjustment data in the owner's manual...probably a thing of the past???

 

[Snowcat]

Unfortunately in today's world people just OP to buy a battery operated chainsaw that is this size hench NO tuning issues. probably better off chucking this in the saw for parts pile.. LOL

 

[kuhndog]

After you clean carb try a new plug! Just had same with a 240

 

[Snowcat]

Any idea what the T (big slotted adjustment) setting should be for base setting??? I've got the splined ones (L, & H ) set at 1 1/2 turn from closed from gently seated...

Seems crazy rich-upon starting, wet fuel out exhaust....
Also brand new NGK plug... Used Husky rebuild kit (real China) no cheapo reman LOL

 

[North by Northwest]

Any idea what the T (big slotted adjustment) setting should be for base setting??? I've got the splined ones (L, & H ) set at 1 1/2 turn from closed from gently seated...

Seems crazy rich-upon starting, wet fuel out exhaust....
Also brand new NGK plug... Used Husky rebuild kit (real China) no cheapo reman LOL

Usually the idle setting is just sufficient to set the chain attempting to move then back off just a smidge . Your high and low settings should be reset if you find a rich condition off idle . The low usually is closer to 1-1/4 enough to ensure no hesitation on throttling up . The high should be fourstroking and clearing up in the cut . Otherwise known as highest available rpm then back it out until it burbles ! P.S. Each saw jetting is different , I just sent you the 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 as starting point reference . I have seen 3/4 & 1 turn out in some rare occasions ! Ensure you have a clean air filter and full tank of fresh mixed fuel also prior to attempting any tuning

 

[Snowcat]

Vacuum & Pressure tested the 240E leaking like a sieve, around the edge of clutch side crank seal, around the outer edge of seal, so tore it apart and cleaned it surgically clean used Yamahabond 4 and re-assembled it.. Before anyone says, I should have used new bearings and seals... this saw has hardly been run (I knew the original owner he had trouble with it since the saw was new) soon as the new carb gaskets show up I can see how it runs. It holds pressure and vac both now...

 

[DirtyHippo]

Vacuum & Pressure tested the 240E leaking like a sieve, around the edge of clutch side crank seal, around the outer edge of seal, so tore it apart and cleaned it surgically clean used Yamahabond 4 and re-assembled it.. Before anyone says, I should have used new bearings and seals... this saw has hardly been run (I knew the original owner he had trouble with it since the saw was new) soon as the new carb gaskets show up I can see how it runs. It holds pressure and vac both now...

i know this is an old thread, but do you know if the saw is registered? it would have 3 years warranty from husqvarna from the date of purchase. might be worth looking into to get some new crank seals. they shouldn't leak on a new saw like that