husky 288 vs stihl 461 Please read.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Countryboy

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
6
Reaction score
3
First off hello. This being my first post here just like to say love the site. This wont be another stihl vs husky thread. My situation is a friend of mine is talking about starting a firewood business and asked me to be a partner as I have been cutting longer than he has (about ten years on and off not pro). I have only ever ran an early 90s 281 that my dad says is a 288 I guess he put a 288 jug and piston on it? Saw has been great as far as I can tell with my limited experience but I am thinking that as much as it will be cutting with firewood business I might be better off with a new saw. With only a stihl dealer anywhere close to me and now that I hear bad things about the big box store huskys the stihl seems to be my best option. I was thinking the 460/461 because I figure it should be more than enough with a 28" B/C. I am in AZ and most of the cutting will be on beetle kill pines and junipers maybe a dead oak here and there but not much of it at all. But I also spend quite a bit of time in Idaho where I cut bigger stuff but its on vacation so also not very much. My questions are how much better are the newer saws compared to the only one I have run? How will the 460/461 compare to the 281/288? I do understand that there is a decent difference in displacement but still Iam curious. Also I have another 288 and a bucket full of parts. I can get extra saw to run if I pour a little but of fuel in the carb and pull on it so I know it will run but I am looking at at least a carb to get motor running then about 200-250 to replace the parts that are missing b4 it ever works. Is the saw worth fixing or should i just keep it around for parts.
Thanks All
 
288 - a little heavier and a little stronger, and maybe a little smoother. They are tough, plentiful, simple to work on, and have one of the greatest exhaust notes.
I doubt you need a new carb for the 288. More like you need to clean the carb, replace the fuel line and filter, and adjust the carb.
 
I believe the Carb is missing some parts because it leaks out a lot of the fuel that I pour in almost b4 i can pull on it. I seen a carb on amazon for $35 that is made by same manufacture I would have to check part numbers tho
 
Thanks husq2100 I agree 100%. Ya Ive been wanting another saw for a few years now and it just seems like this is enough of an excuse to tell the wife why I "NEED" another saw lol anything spent on this business will be coming out of my fun money and any profits made off of it will be either invested into company if things are that good or put back in the fun box. This will be a part time excuse to get us out in the mountains when we are not working in the mine.
 
If I were in the market for a new saw it'd be a 461. It's the Stihl that husky has no real answer for. Yet. I wouldn't want to spend a whole day in the woods with my 288. People hate it when I say this, but my 385 is better in every way except sound
 
If I were in the market for a new saw it'd be a 461. It's the Stihl that husky has no real answer for. Yet. I wouldn't want to spend a whole day in the woods with my 288. People hate it when I say this, but my 385 is better in every way except sound

I agree with that 100%. I have a 385 and 390 now and sold 6 288s in the past 6 months. They're a good saw but others do the same as good or better. There's just nothing out there that sounds that good except a 2100.
 
Unless you've got significant time pressure fix the 288. Learning two strokes/saws over the past few years has been one of the most satisfying things I've done in a long while. You can skill up very quickly with AS, you tube and mechanic manuals. See beg for manuals thread on this site. As others have said it'll keep your start up costs down and signifcantly reduce maintainance costs in the long run. Feel free to share your repair job on the 288 here, there are lots of very experienced and helpful folk on AS.

Personally I'd keep an eye out for a good Stihl 044/440 or equiv pro Husq and use the 288 in the mean time. You'll then have more complimentary saws.

Just for a little perspective. Our commercial fire wood guys in S West OZ almost always work in hardwood and run Stihl 660 or equiv Husq as their main saw. As you're going to be mosty cutting vertically a lot the weight of the saw will be supported by the wood...unless you're lugging it a ways in the bush.

I've been using a Stihl 064, 361, 024S as my combo for about 6 months and use the smallest saw that will get the job done efficiently.

Good luck with your new venture.
 
If I were in the market for a new saw it'd be a 461. It's the Stihl that husky has no real answer for. Yet. I wouldn't want to spend a whole day in the woods with my 288. People hate it when I say this, but my 385 is better in every way except sound

390/ 2188. Just a little more weight- a whole lot more power.

OP- 288 is my favorite saw. If I were you I wouldnt part with mine unless I was sending it to Mastermind for porting.
 
I've been using a Stihl 064, 361, 024S as my combo for about 6 months and use the smallest saw that will get the job done efficiently.
Very true words there. Lately, my 394XP has been sitting in the shade watching my 562XP do the work. I feel much better at the end of the day for it too. Not as much difference between them cutting firewood as you may think at first. Until the timber, (dry Aussie hardwood) gets up in size of course. A lighter saw that you can throw around, but still making good power is your best bet overall.
Pick the new saw to suit the majority of the wood you cut, (if you decide to invest in a new saw that is), and leave the 288 for the larger gruntier stuff as required.
 
If you're leaking that much fuel when re-fueling I'd take a look at the tank vent....my recollection is that there was a service bulletin that applied to the 281/288 family of saws. I'll see if I can dig it out tonight. When you lay the saw down to fill, the saw is resting on the vent side of the saw. a faulty or missing vent will allow the fuel to run out with no restriction.

I personally think the 181 or 266 were the best they made for firewood cutting: simple, reliable, easy to tune and still plenty of parts available.

When you're ready to sell yours, send me a PM.
 
My working saw doesnt leak fuel at all. The saw that doesnt run is the one that leaks and it doesnt leak from the tank. The only way I can get it to run is by taking off the air filter and pouring a small amount of fuel straight into the carb then pull on the stater and itll run until it runs out of that fuel but I have to be quick about it cuz as soon as I start pouring fuel into top of carb it starts running out all over the carb lol. It appears to be missing some of the gaskets between the carb spacer and jug. Prolly my fault I can remember trying to "help" my dad work on his saws when I was little. The only thing that leaks on my working saw is the bc oil but it comes from the cap and I just havent replaced the o-ring yet lazyness on my part. I highly doubt I will ever sell these saws but if I do it wont be until they are both running and in top condition and you will be the first one I tell.
 
Sounds as though you are "priming" it to get it started (you can't choke it enough as there is no gas)....crank pulses are what operate the carbs fuel pump. If you are missing the gasket between carb and intake manifold, then you are probably loosing or leaking the crank pulses (that would be the small hole at the 10 o'clock position). Surprising it would stay running. These are very simple saws with very few parts....but if you took out a gasket, played with the mixture, or ran E10 fuel through there then anything is possible, but only a few things probable. After you install the missing gaskets, if it still does not run, check the fuel pickup hose for cracks...especially in the area where it enters/exits the fuel tank.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top