bigcountry88
ArboristSite Lurker
Found one of these, a 350, and wanted to know what the consensus is? Good saw, bad, in-between?
Husky 350?
- Thread starter bigcountry88
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cuinrearview
Red saw lover
What is your intended use?
bigcountry88
ArboristSite Lurker
Limbing, brushing, some falling and bucking for Home and sometimes work.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
A very good fit for those uses. The 3 series clamshell huskies are considered some of the best. Parts are cheap and plentiful, they're easy to work on, and have a lot of upgrade potential. I would not hesitate to recommend for your intended use.
bigcountry88
ArboristSite Lurker
Thank you for that. Are they any negatives to the saw, at all, I should be aware of?
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
If the intake boot is clamped to the cylinder with a plastic integrated clamp, you'll want to change it out for a metal clamp.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
It is a different setup. The bearing cup allows a regular cylinder to mount, including a 346xp jug, and is why a lot of people like them.
These are also prone to having the muffler bolts loosen up.
It's a good idea to add a front muffler brace, either make something up or mod a 353/346 part.
Check that a loose muffler hasn't melted the top of the oil tank,
not necessarily a big deal if it's not leaking and/or patched but detracts from the value some.
It's a good idea to add a front muffler brace, either make something up or mod a 353/346 part.
Check that a loose muffler hasn't melted the top of the oil tank,
not necessarily a big deal if it's not leaking and/or patched but detracts from the value some.
My favorite platform to work on. I’ve done a few of the 346 up grades with complete success with OEM top ends. The 44.3 mm cylinder is great right outa the box with a slight muffler mod and carb adjustment. The 45 mm cylinder with the flat top piston isn’t bad but once you put a 346 on it, you don’t look back!
bigcountry88
ArboristSite Lurker
Is the muffler issue something that is easily fixable? Or how often can one expect it to happen?
It’s easy to deal with, as a regular maintenance procedure just run the saw till it’s good and warm, give the bolts a twist with your wrench, cut wood. You can also add the 3$ muffler bracket. The bearing cap bolts need this procedure as well, just for safety sake, I’ve seen more than a few of these saws burnt up that were missing at least one of the four bolts creating a massive air leak. They can be checked without any disassembly. Theses are very reliable saws if you know what can go wrong and how to prevent them from happening.
If the muffler is tight let it alone. I’ve had one for 15 plus Years muffler is tight. I wouldn’t tighten it up if it’s not loose. Seems like to me that’s sorta looking to start a problem that doesn’t yet exist.
Metal clamp is bout all I’d do to it. The plastic one is sorta a cheap clamp that just isn’t a great idea. I never replaced mine but it honestly can fail and has failed quite a bit
bigcountry88
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for all the replies gentleman (and ladies if any are present). I snagged one for a hopefully decent price on eBay. It had a 20” bar I am thinking of swapping for a 16 unless it will run the 20 fine? And where can I get this metal clamp I have seen others mention?
20 is gonna be too much 16 is real good. I use 18 .325. It will pull it pretty good.
I have 16" .325 nk on mine and it runs great
PowerWagon
ArboristSite Lurker
I just rebuilt a 350 with a Huztl kit.
Saw had the plastic intake clamp, boot was very loose on the intake spigot. Likely the reason it melted down.
I used a decent quality zip tie around the clamp tangs to tighten it up, seems to work fine.
Saw had the plastic intake clamp, boot was very loose on the intake spigot. Likely the reason it melted down.
I used a decent quality zip tie around the clamp tangs to tighten it up, seems to work fine.
