Husky 357XP running issues

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stihl025

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I have my 357XP that ran pretty good for a while when I first got it (used from a farm auction - great shape, no scoring). I started to have some reliability issues, and after checking everything out, found it to have a cracked fuel line. It also had the plastic boot clamp that was in the service bulletin and I ended up replacing that as well along with the fuel and impluse hoses. Since then, I have never gotten it to run right.

Pressure and vac tested everything, and all is good in that respect.

I can adjust the carb and get it to run really nice, but after about an hours worth of cutting, everything is back out of whack. Idle is way high and the saw seems to run lean at high speed. When I first got it, I replaced the tank vents because they were bad, so I don't suspect that to be the problem. I am starting to think it could be the carb. It is a Walbro HDA-175 which is no longer produced. I have no idea if there were suppose to be limiter caps on it or not. So, I really don't know if it could be working itself out of tune. Any other thoughts?
 
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my next door nieghbour has the same saw and had the same problem. the little screen inside the carb was full of saw dust. after running for a while it would lean out and die and wouldn't start for a while. it was acting as if it was really lazy as well (slow to wind up). after we cleaned that screen out the saw ran pretty much like new. that may be a place to start.
 
my next door nieghbour has the same saw and had the same problem. the little screen inside the carb was full of saw dust. after running for a while it would lean out and die and wouldn't start for a while. it was acting as if it was really lazy as well (slow to wind up). after we cleaned that screen out the saw ran pretty much like new. that may be a place to start.

I had the carb apart already and cleaned everything. Gaskets and diaphrams were in good shape. Thinking about doing a carb kit anyway, or even the possibility of a new HDA-199 carb (the carb that replaced the HDA-175). I assume that the saw was dropped or possibly run over a some point. The reason I believe that is because, the top cover plastic was basically new, and the color was a darker orange than the rest of the saw. Not a big deal, but the H needle was bent a little. So rather than trying to bend it back, I ordered a new one. Now, don't you know, they are almost identical with the exception of the head (where the screw driver goes). I am trying to order a complete needle kit (with limiter caps, etc.) and it is on back order for almost two months now. If I try to order just the H needle for the HDA-175 from Walbro, it is no longer available. The H needle I did get to replace the bent one was from the 357XP IPL and I think it fit the HDA-199 carb. So I could have a mismatch somewhere with this carb. I am not sure. I couldn't find a 357XP IPL that showed the HDA-175 as an option.
 
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I would clean, inspect, and rebuild the card, especially if you hadn't done so in years. Doesn't take much particles to make a saw run poorly.
 
Did you check if you a pressure buildup in your tank?By removing the cap slowly,and checking for air hissing.If you have a pressure buildup,even if you have replaced the vent,i would check if the "air passage" in the tank itself is not blocked.Remove the vent "dimes" and with an air hose,put a bit a pressure in the dime hole and and check if your hear is going in the tank,if not the passage itself is blocked.Another thing i see could be air leak as you said she is leaning out and running fast.I dont think the needle is the problem because she will run bad as soon you start her,not after an hour.
 
Did you check if you a pressure buildup in your tank?By removing the cap slowly,and checking for air hissing.If you have a pressure buildup,even if you have replaced the vent,i would check if the "air passage" in the tank itself is not blocked.Remove the vent "dimes" and with an air hose,put a bit a pressure in the dime hole and and check if your hear is going in the tank,if not the passage itself is blocked.Another thing i see could be air leak as you said she is leaning out and running fast.I dont think the needle is the problem because she will run bad as soon you start her,not after an hour.

I do get an unusually high amount of pressure build up in the tank. Never really thought too much about it though. What happens if it is blocked? How do I open it up?
 
I do get an unusually high amount of pressure build up in the tank. Never really thought too much about it though. What happens if it is blocked? How do I open it up?

Us a SMALL bit drill and make an hole at an angle of 45 * ,lets say towards the top of the tank.Try to have the drill the deepest in the vent hole while being able to keep at an angle.Once done,reinstall your 2 dimes.Make it SMALL or you gonna lose a bit of gas while the saw is on his side.
 
Us a SMALL bit drill and make an hole at an angle of 45 * ,lets say towards the top of the tank.Try to have the drill the deepest in the vent hole while being able to keep at an angle.Once done,reinstall your 2 dimes.Make it SMALL or you gonna lose a bit of gas while the saw is on his side.

Have they had problems with these in the past?
 
Did you check if you a pressure buildup in your tank?By removing the cap slowly,and checking for air hissing.If you have a pressure buildup,even if you have replaced the vent,i would check if the "air passage" in the tank itself is not blocked.Remove the vent "dimes" and with an air hose,put a bit a pressure in the dime hole and and check if your hear is going in the tank,if not the passage itself is blocked.Another thing i see could be air leak as you said she is leaning out and running fast.I dont think the needle is the problem because she will run bad as soon you start her,not after an hour.

Well, finaly got around to pressure testing and vac testing the tank. I do have a problem. If I pressurize the tank it will leak down but very slowly and only to a certain point, then it will hold and not leak down anymore. If I put it under vacuum, it will take very long (ie: 5 minutes) to raise the pressure. I understand what happens when the the tank creates a vacuum and staves for fuel, but what are the effects of having too much pressure build up in the tank?
 
Well, finaly got around to pressure testing and vac testing the tank. I do have a problem. If I pressurize the tank it will leak down but very slowly and only to a certain point, then it will hold and not leak down anymore. If I put it under vacuum, it will take very long (ie: 5 minutes) to raise the pressure. I understand what happens when the the tank creates a vacuum and staves for fuel, but what are the effects of having too much pressure build up in the tank?
It could force your inlet needle to open ,being the only "relief" on the line.But you need a pressure.Husky ask to bring the pressure up to 6-7 lbs on your gauge and should drop to 2-3 after a minute.
 
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If you have a pressure buildup,even if you have replaced the vent,i would check if the "air passage" in the tank itself is not blocked.Remove the vent "dimes" and with an air hose,put a bit a pressure in the dime hole and and check if your hear is going in the tank,if not the passage itself is blocked.

CHA-CHING

HiOctane, you hit the nail right on the head. Pulled the vion plugs out of the tank vent and there was no passage for the air to escape. Took my Craftsman straight pic and made a small hole so it can breathe, Re-pressure and vac tested, and I was back in business. The saw never ran so good. Thanks to all!!!
 

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