Husky 359 or 365?

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365 vs 365 "Spesial"

I think you are right.

After changing from 371 to 372, they put some of the new features of the 372 into (some of) the 365 and 362, and they dubbed them "Spesial" on some markets.
On other markets they just made the changes "silently", and in some cases not at all.:confused: :laugh: :laugh:
 
I've had a 365 for a while now. Its been a good saw for me. Starts easy and pulls a 20inch bar with no trouble. I've had time on a 272xp, 257xp, 394xp and 372xp. Usually I've had to run these for hours on end and developed a fairly strong opinion of what I like...for me the 365 was a really nice compromise of power, durability, and weight. The XP272 & 372 wore me out faster than my 365 does...the more abrupt power in geater quantities is the culprit..a younger version of me would go for the 372.

The 257XP was lighter and had power but you had to be agressive and keep it turning at its chosen RPM's or its stalls the chain in larger wood. Needed a bit more finess(skill) where as the 365 has the same kind of power but at less RPM's and over a wider range of RPM's....a really nice saw. Doesn't wear me out. It fills in when my antiques get me frustrated and/or real work needs to be done. (or when I can't get my truck or tractor to the job and I have to CARRY a saw)
 
EYOLF, or anyone else,

do you know why your johnsered 670 seized? i read and hear bout that happening but thankfully have not experienced it and dont want to. are air leaks and improper mixes the only causes? any insight appreciated.

good day 1953greg
 
I have a 365 and run the 20" bar on it. Used it to fell tree, block down trees and cut firewood. Does well at all of them good power to weight ratio and with a 20" bar on the balance is really nice, i'd like to try a 24" just to see if that works a bit better.

The AV system is solid good sharp chain and you don't feel much vibration at all. Make sure you get the 365 special with the side chain tensioning just a nice little feature that makes life easier.

I don't know but i'd expect all the other saws you mentioned would have outboard clutches and they are a right pain. The 365 (at least mine) has an inboard one which is much simpler to use and clean.
 
weimedog said:
...., 257xp,.....
The 257XP was lighter and had power .....
The saw you are referring to is most likely the 357xp from how you describe it.

There was the 254xp and the 257 in the 1990ies, but never a 257xp.
 
I too bought a 365 with a 20" bar a little over a year ago and have been very satisfied with it's ease of use and power. It starts easy and the air filter stays cleaner than some of the Stihls and Macs I have used. All in all a good size saw for cutting firewood and a purchase I haven't regretted.
 
has anyone ran a 24 on a 365?? When will the 365's go to this EPA regulation???? maybe i need to get ahold of one before they do....... do you guys spose this epa crap will hurt the power of this saw?????
 
Derag2 said:
has anyone ran a 24 on a 365?? When will the 365's go to this EPA regulation???? maybe i need to get ahold of one before they do....... do you guys spose this epa crap will hurt the power of this saw?????

As far as I know, Husky is discontinuing them after the stock is used up. I don't know what is part of the EPA crap that is on them now. Mine are a couple years old and don't have any epa crap on them that I know of. I have two of them, and one has a 24" and one has an 18" I use the 18" for bucking and the 24" for felling. Most of the wood I cut is medium to hard. I have had a 28" bar on it on an occasion or two, but it definately isn't the fastest thing in the world with it on, but it gets the job done. With an 18" bar, it is a mean little saw.

Steve
 
Troll you must be right. (Only numbers left are part of the "5" and the "7" from abuse,wear & tear! I just assumed it was from the prior generation looking darker in color the way it does. Should have looked for the little black tag...)
 
As a first time writer, please let me share some thoughts. My son in law has a 359 which I have been using. This may sound silly, but I found when I forgot to depress the compression release (cold and hot), the saw required several pulls with me holding the trigger full open to fire it up. Seems when I remember it starts right up. I have been using it hard on a tough piece of downed white oak, close to four feet in diameter, both cross cutting and ripping with an old Oregon 72 LP chain (kept sharp). This old tree has enough fuel for a whole winter here in Jersey so I nibble away at it whenever my back is up to it. Basically I'm saying this heavily knotted hardwood tree offers a stiff test for this motor and it has done well. Would it be faster and easier with a larger saw? I'd answer that this way... if I were younger and stronger... probably. The one thing that impressed me was fuel consumption seemed very good.
To sum up... you need to identify your needs, personal strengths, and available funds. Heck, if you don't like the first one sell it on ebay and try another. I believe how the saw is operated and maintained has more to do with performance than allot of users want to admit. Let's face it, who wants to stop work to sharpen a chain that's only cutting 50%? Or to clean the air filter when it won't quite idle right in the middle of a job? Or clean out the bar groove and tighten the chain? There are so many variables that only the user can address in the field. Hope that helps? God bless
 
Welcome the forum, WOOJR! Your assessment is pretty good. That is an awful lot of tree for that saw. Go easy, or you'll buy your son-in-law a brand new chainsaw!
 

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