Husky 36

[Mail Man]

Do you have a compression tester with a Schraeder valve at the tip?

If not, how does the compression "feel"? If you hold the saw just by the starter chord handle and try to pick it up, does the engine turn over?

I do not have a compression tester, but, I can pick up the saw with the pull cord, and have to actually give it a little "pop" with my wrist for the cord to move.

 

[Mail Man]

Don't know if it will help but my Husky spec. book say's the air gap for the coil is .012 not .030. You hear a lot of people say a matchbook cover or bussiness card which did work for me on my 268. Good luck.

I have heard from one other person to try a business card also, maybe I will give it a try, not sure what else to try, I am going to try and get a compression tester, what is the acceptable ratings?

some one asked if I pulled the muffler to check for scarring. I did and it looked pretty clean, I actually pulled the muffler, and the spark plug and shined my flashlight into the cylinder to check it real well, and all looked good.

the reason this bugs me so much, is I had actually had this saw running, but had to shut it down for a couple of weeks to replace the sprocket, and the starter pulley, and now I can't get it to run to save my life.

 

[Crofter]

Not a likely thing, but the flywheel could have shifted on the taper on one of your attempts to restart it. ( you can still have spark but not at the right time to do anything) Muffler blocked with a nest of something? Usually you get at least a half hearted attempt to run so that is a very long shot too.

 

[Mail Man]

Not a likely thing, but the flywheel could have shifted on the taper on one of your attempts to restart it. ( you can still have spark but not at the right time to do anything) Muffler blocked with a nest of something? Usually you get at least a half hearted attempt to run so that is a very long shot too.

Just to make sure, I should have the magnet directly under the coil when the piston is TDC right??

I had the muffler totally taken apart, and the aresstor screen is even clean.

Keith

 

[Motodeficient]

Did you mean that you set your spark plug gap to .03 or your coil air gap?

 

[Mail Man]

Did you mean that you set your spark plug gap to .03 or your coil air gap?

The coild air gap to .030, and the spark plug to .5

 

[Motodeficient]

That does sound really high for the coil air gap, and high for the plug gap too. I bet thats the problem

 

[Mail Man]

That does sound really high for the coil air gap, and high for the plug gap too. I bet thats the problem

I set both gaps right from the manual...not saying it is the right setting for an older saw, but that is the only setting I know of.
What do you think I should be setting them at? I am willing to try anything.

 

[Mail Man]

sorry, after reading that last reply, it sounded like i was being rude....didn't mean for it to sound that way, I know you guys can "read a saw" better than a manual.

 

[woodsrunner]

Is there something I am overlooking?

:censored:

Check the on/off switch. On mine the insulation had cracked and was intermittently shorting the ignition circuit out. It was a little frustrating until I figured it out. The fuel line suggestion is also one I would check out as well. I'v had to replace fuel lines a couple of times in the 12 years I've had my 36. Lots of times its a simple little thing that we miss. Good luck.

Scott

 

[Motodeficient]

If it came from the manual then its right I am sure. The saws I have worked on recently spec'd .012 or so for the coil an .03 for the plug.

I haven't worked on a 36 so I shouldn't have assumed it would be the same. Sorry about that, sounds like you have it right!

 

[Mail Man]

Check the on/off switch. On mine the insulation had cracked and was intermittently shorting the ignition circuit out. It was a little frustrating until I figured it out. The fuel line suggestion is also one I would check out as well. I'v had to replace fuel lines a couple of times in the 12 years I've had my 36. Lots of times its a simple little thing that we miss. Good luck.

Scott

Scott,
I replaced the fuel line when I rebuilt the carb,this last week, but the only check I did for the switch was to try cranking with the plug out and grounded with it on, and with the switch off. I will check the kill switch tonight, thanks for the suggestion, I will let you know.

Keith

 

[Mail Man]

If it came from the manual then its right I am sure. The saws I have worked on recently spec'd .012 or so for the coil an .03 for the plug.

I haven't worked on a 36 so I shouldn't have assumed it would be the same. Sorry about that, sounds like you have it right!

Actually, you might have solved my problem by making me "read" the manual, and not just look at it.
I think I might have gapped both in inches, but read the MM reading from the manual. I am definately gonna check that tonight...can't remember if my feeler guage is in inches or MM.

You may have solved my problem, will let you know tomorrow

 

[cjcocn]

Actually, you might have solved my problem by making me "read" the manual, and not just look at it.
I think I might have gapped both in inches, but read the MM reading from the manual. I am definately gonna check that tonight...can't remember if my feeler guage is in inches or MM.

You may have solved my problem, will let you know tomorrow

These last few posts have been interesting.

If you've set using the mm number and an inch gauge, then that saw will fire right up once you have adjusted both the air and plug gaps.

LOL .... that would be really funny if it turns out to be your problem. I've done similar things so I can easily see the humor in it.

 

[Mail Man]

These last few posts have been interesting.

If you've set using the mm number and an inch gauge, then that saw will fire right up once you have adjusted both the air and plug gaps.

LOL .... that would be really funny if it turns out to be your problem. I've done similar things so I can easily see the humor in it.

well, this is one sure way to make sure I don't do this again...if this is the problem, I will be so embarassed, that I will never forget it. LOL

 

[barneyrb]

Actually, you might have solved my problem by making me "read" the manual, and not just look at it.
I think I might have gapped both in inches, but read the MM reading from the manual. I am definately gonna check that tonight...can't remember if my feeler guage is in inches or MM.

You may have solved my problem, will let you know tomorrow

This is one of those you hate to admit....but if make the same mistake setting the valves on a MF135 diesel, it will make tons of valvetrain noise. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[Mail Man]

This is one of those you hate to admit....but if make the same mistake setting the valves on a MF135 diesel, it will make tons of valvetrain noise. Don't ask me how I know.

aint that the truth, but it sure can be a learning experience.
be sure to keep that 135 quite LOL
:greenchainsaw:

 

[Mail Man]

okay, just checked the air gap, and I did have it set wrong, so I readjusted it, and checked the plug, the plug is set proper, so I put it all together, and pull a few times with the choke on, and check the plug, and it is wet.
I dry the plug off, and put it back in, then I proceeded to pull till my arm hurt...still nothing.
I was fed up with it for the night, so I try and pick it up by the pull start, and can't pick it up...not even without the bar and chain on. It does have some resistance, but with everything sealed up, it wants to pull all the cord out.

I can feel the compression, but not enough to get the body off of the ground.

Help, what do I do now??? Do I get a compression checker? Do I need a special compression checker??? How do I do the test????????

AAAAUUUUGGGHHH

Please help.

:censored:

 

[Motodeficient]

I didn't read back through the whole thread but did you take the muffler off and look at the piston yet? If you hold the saw off the ground, grab the pull handle, and let go of the saw, how quickly does it fall?

 

[Mail Man]

I didn't read back through the whole thread but did you take the muffler off and look at the piston yet? If you hold the saw off the ground, grab the pull handle, and let go of the saw, how quickly does it fall?

I did pull the muffler, and the piston and cylinder looked fine.
if I let go of the saw, it doesn't come crahing down, it is a pretty slow drop, but not enough compression to keep the saw up.