Yellowbeard
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for all the worthwhile advice!
Husky 455 Rancher Clutch
- Thread starter Yellowbeard
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LonestarStihl
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think you chose well personally. Not too many people would be upset to have their saw delivered to them in better shape than they loaned it.
Now I want to order one to see how it would do compared to the 20
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SawTroll
Information Collector
For the rated power output the 455 shouldn't come with a bar longer than 16", and it should be .325, not 3/8". Somehow the "rancher" configuration removes all sense though, so they usually come with both a higher gearing and a longer bar. This is not specific to those saws, but common on most saws directed at the "farm" and "homeowner" markets in the US.
In 3/8" an 18" called bar is fairly close to a 20" called one (only a 4 dl difference), so it won't make a lot of difference. 16" and .325 makes a major difference though, on how the saw will perform in the cuts.
An 18" called 3/8" (68dl) bar for that saw is close to 18 1/2" in reality, while an 18" called .325 bar (72dl) barely is over 17" - and because of the lower gearing of 7x.325 vs. 3/8"x7 this puts the .325 at a major advantage regarding torque and cutting performance - at a loss of reach for the same "called" bar length.
It is much more complicated than this, but it is a good start....
Yellowbeard
ArboristSite Operative
Wait, wait. Just to make sure: I'm not borrowing it, and I certainly didn't break it. Someone else broke it and I said I would get it fixed (he lives far out of town and is worked half to death already). Then, when I looked at it, I figured I could just fix it myself. However, it is a favor for a favor. That oak I am lying on in my profile pic is his and he's letting me (basically) have it. So I feel a bit obligated.
Yellowbeard
ArboristSite Operative
Hmmm... Well, I can tell he was forcing it because the bar rails are flattened to where they have those sharp bits along the edges. I just hope a new (slightly shorter) bar, chain, and clutch will help a bit. Thanks for all the advice. Wish I had been in less of a hurry. Maybe I'll call Left Coast on Monday and ask them to change to a 16".
SawTroll
Information Collector
As I see it, it is more important to step down from 3/8" to .325 on that saw, to get the gearing dpwn, than to step down a little on the bar length.
The saw is an overheavy plastic cased 55cc one, with the power of a "semi-pro" 50cc one (unless that one is an Echo, then it will have substantially lees power, as always) - never mind the recommendations regarding cutting attachments on this class of saws - they always are "optimistic", thinking the buyer won't understand a thing about what is going on - and just going by "popular demand".
LonestarStihl
Addicted to ArboristSite
LonestarStihl
Addicted to ArboristSite
The 450 is a .325. I'm smelling what you are stepping in with the size. I know the 50cc saws catch some flak but I have to say it is a good saw for light to medium use. I would be interested in seeing the difference in it moving an 18 compared to the 20 for sure.
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7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Personally I see it a bit different, you are getting a oak log for free, that milled and properly dried and made into nice furniture or other things, could make you easily a few thousand!!! dollars(of course always dependant on wood quality and amount) and you are discussing about peanuts! Sorry my friend but in your situation I would even think about buying him a brand new saw altogether! And even if not I would give him his saw back looking better than it did when brand new and not fart around because of 50$!
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earlthegoat2
ArboristSite Guru
I had to deal with 4 of those 455s when I got to my current job. I agree with SawTroll that they should be an 18" bar and .325 pitch. The clutch grenading was not an uncommon problem either. I went through several before switching to Stihl saws. They were overworking them as SawTroll points out is a bad thing on a homeowner/ranch saw. The chains were sharp at least but they were also 20" bars and were cutting 25"+ hickory and oak regularly.
I used to put some starter rope in the plug hole to lock down the piston and then hit the clutch with a punch in that recess to take it off.
Worked well enough. In the end those Husky 455 ranch saws were replaced with Stihl MS310 and 311 ranch saws. Haha. It was a big improvement though and these are running 20" 3/8 bars and chains as well with much improved results. And when big timber is being cut up I purchased an MS460 with 28" bar so the smaller ranch saws do not get worked to hard.
I used to put some starter rope in the plug hole to lock down the piston and then hit the clutch with a punch in that recess to take it off.
Worked well enough. In the end those Husky 455 ranch saws were replaced with Stihl MS310 and 311 ranch saws. Haha. It was a big improvement though and these are running 20" 3/8 bars and chains as well with much improved results. And when big timber is being cut up I purchased an MS460 with 28" bar so the smaller ranch saws do not get worked to hard.
455 rancher stock bar and chain is 20 ....small mount k095 3/8 050 72dl.
If I was going to run a smaller bar...I'd pick a different saw. The rancher does work with a 20....it isn't amazing..but for general firewood it's fine.
If I was going to run a smaller bar...I'd pick a different saw. The rancher does work with a 20....it isn't amazing..but for general firewood it's fine.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Sorry friend but I have to disagree. I've run a 455R with a 20" bar and 3/8 chain in ash and oak, and it works just fine. I also run longer bars in general than is the AS consensus, and continue to do so because it works well. I expect all my cheap saws to pull the bars that are on them with authority in any wood I cut, including full bar, and they do.
I run a 20" bar on my 46cc Poulan, and with the 20" and 0.325" chain it will pull 9500rpm, while with a 16" and 3/8 lo pro it will pull 1000rpm higher in the same wood. The cut speed difference isn't enough to matter on any real job where saw time is a minor portion of the time involved, and the 16" bar isn't big enough for much of what I cut. A 20" is a much better choice. I've cut a lot of wood with that saw and bar combination.
Also, if all you need is a 16" bar, why lug something heavy around? Get a good light 40cc and put on a loop of sharp lo pro.
I do agree that 0.325" would be better on a 455R, but not worth the money of changing it.
Boomer 87
Addicted to ArboristSite
I kinda have to agree with mattyo. I have a stone stock 460 rancher that I have a 24" bar it runs it fine. If your chain is razor edged it will pull itself into the wood, let the saw do the work. If you have to bear down that's more of an issue than bar length. The saw in the OPs post more than likely was abused.
SawTroll
Information Collector
It always will vary a lot what people regard as acceptable performance, balance and handling from a chainsaw - but it is a fact that long and heavy setups will shorten the ""life" of the saw, and of course reduce the performance.
Yellowbeard
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah. This is kind of where I am. Now OTOH, he was going to burn the log else, and our agreement was that he would get first choice of slabs out of it. This is why I happily dropped about 75 on the saw yesterday and will give him some lessons. I am going to make sure that his saw works really well for him for almost exactly the reasons you're citing (not actually sure how we're in disagreement). I call it enlightened self interest.
Boomer 87
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree to an extent, I think maintenance plays a huge role in it as well. I get by with it bc owning 50 saws I dont have to run just one for any extended period. I think it has a lot to do with the operator as well, if you saw like a jackwagon and treat your equipment the same it won't live long. Not saying thats the case here, but many a saw died at the operators hands
Yellowbeard
ArboristSite Operative
So, this is what I bought:
https://leftcoastsupplies.com/product/18-gb-arbor-pro-barchain-combo-325-050-k095-mount/
But you're saying that this saw probably is a 3/8 instead of a .325? Basically, do I need to buy a new sprocket?
https://leftcoastsupplies.com/product/18-gb-arbor-pro-barchain-combo-325-050-k095-mount/
But you're saying that this saw probably is a 3/8 instead of a .325? Basically, do I need to buy a new sprocket?
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes. I had two 455s that I put together to get one saw and both were 3/8. That's a good deal in that bar and chain. I paid $35 for a laser made in China bar and chain for mine and the paint is flaking off after one cut.
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LonestarStihl
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sweet thanks for the link. I didn't see that on there before but that's a good price for the combo and to try out the 18
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