Husky 455 Tuning Question/Comment

[Roofgunner]

I was hoping I could get some techical information regarding my Husqvarna 455 purchased in April 2009 in Missouri. I've rebuilt my 55, and maintained my 36 and Sthil 009l for years and I worked for Kawasaki/Suzuki back in the early 80's, so I know a little about saws and two strokes but I'm not up on the new EPA saws. The manual says the saw was adjusted at the factory to meet EPA/Federal standards. That doesn't mean it will run the way it should. Someone here must have the info. The dealer isn't customer oriented. He told me to throw away my 55 and buy the 455. I did but rebuilt the 55.

The 455 I have is not one with the catalytic coverter and the H/L adjustment screws do not have caps but the limiters can be pushed in with a small screw driver and then you can turn the screws in or out for adjustment, then release the limiters that will allow about 1/2 to 3/4 turn of the screws.

The saw ran fine but as it broke in it gradually began to lose power during a full throttle cut then if you held the throttle, it got to the point where it would quit and if you let up sometimes it would speed up again. In otherwords it didn't want to pull under load. Since the saw is under warranty I took the saw to my "dealer with an attitude" and he adjusted the high speed screw with out putting it under load, and without really letting the saw warm up. I watched him do it. And I will admit, the saw ran normally at full throttle. He lectured me on the fact that the gas these days is bad, etc. So it was almost like I was going to have to put up with a bogging saw and maybe one that would self destruct, then he could tell me to throw that one away and buy another new one. I took the saw home(60 mile round trip) and tried to cut a 20 inch tree down that was dead. Warmed the saw, started to cut the wedge out saw bogged out, stalled, got going again and then stalled. It started fine and idled like a Rolls but wouldn't cut. So I got the 55 out and cut up the tree.

At this point, I figured it's like everything else--fix the damn thing yourself. I was very sure my EPA certified chainsaw needed a richer mixture at the high speed jet. I removed the pull starter and in increments of 1/2 turns backed out the high speed screw and tested the saw. Immediately it become more responsive. I've taken the screw out almost two full turns to the point if I turn it in a little the engine speeds up a little, but I've left out to keep it rich. It is to the point that it seems that the carb is about as rich as it will get, the spark plug is the correct color and, when the saw is cold I can pull the trigger and the saw will not stall which means it's definately not lean. The saw really runs great now.

A couple of things I would like to know: When adjusting the high speed screw the saw doesn't want to act like my other three saws when it comes to the "dieseling" sound I get when the saws get rich. I've been told that due to the porting, etc. that these new saws are sort of like a 3 stroke rather than a two stroke. Would this be the reason why they may not act like the older saw engines? And two, has anyone else had this experience with any saw and primarily the 455? I called one of the sponsers of this site and was told that with the new saws, doing what I did with mine, was what was necessary to make them run correctly. I'd like to know if anyone has had a similar experience.:chainsawguy:

 

[Boskaerm]

has a 435, also a strato/ x-torq saw, very strange to adjust, and really needs the H screew far out, and also on the L I think.. Couldn`t get it to idle when i first got it, but now it really shines.

 

[Boskaerm]

but like you say, strange sound, when rich

 

[Roofgunner]

Thank-you

Thanks for the info. I just wanted to check with some one else to confirm what I found out. While I was at Baily's in Woodland, CA. the fellow there told me that Husky developed the technology regarding these new engines and that Stihl was "renting it" from Husky. I figured it was the other way around. I guess the Sweden has their "act" together on this one!

 

[CGC4200]

Redmax developed strato, Husqvarna bought Redmax

That is the way I heard it, Stihl has either paid or found a legal work around.
Sawtroll may know.

 

[pops21]

Pull the spark screen out of the muffler and see if its plugged. Spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner to clean it up. Not sure if you know but you can split the air filter on the 455 for earier cleaning. Use some dawn dish detergent and hot water and clean it real good. If that don't work then maybe have the carb rebuilt. I just got threw working on two 455's. Both had semi loose screws holding the carb on the saw. Hope this helps.
Chris

 

[dingeryote]

That is the way I heard it, Stihl has either paid or found a legal work around.
Sawtroll may know.

Homelite came up with the Strato design back when John Deere owned them, John Deere then petitioned like mad to get the EPA standards raised knowing full well everybody would be screwed but them and would have to pay for royalties. Then came the John Deere/Stihl marriage for access to the design in trade for the Stihl line in the green tractor boutiques.

Then came Redmax buying out Homelite and the design came with it....which of course ended up with Husqvarna when they got thier Mitts on Redmax after paying for rights, blah,blah,blah...Here's a link telling the tale of treachery and Deere stabbing us all in the back.

http://money.cnn.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/2002/05/13/322885/index.htm

As for that 455.
Clean the screen, they get plugged up quick running non synthetic as the stratos run a bit cooler longer on warm up.

Snip the limiter tabs off and tune the saw rich on the "H" jet untill it warbles like it's gargling.
Stupid Rev limiter will cut in just about the time you hear it so make several full throttle runs.
Then start working back lean untill you hear it just start to warble just before it starts smacking into the liiter.

Then go to wood and adjust it so the thing warbles in the cut without pressure, but cleans up with a small bit of pushing on the bar.

That will get you just a bit rich with a margin to play with.

I hope it makes sense. Dadgum Rev limiters screw everything up, but once you get an ear for them when they hit you can work around them.

I dunno about all 455's but mine is kind of cranky with cold weather and runs a bit lean when it gets good and cold, so I always run it a bit on the rich side.

It ain't a pro saw or anything to set the world afire, but darn if they wont run on a steady diet of abuse. Mine owes me nothing and I'd buy another if I was in the same place again.

Good luck with yours!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[Roofgunner]

455 tune

Thank you very much for the advice. I wasn't aware they had rev limiters. I will check the carb screws although I think I had checked those, and the muffler. This saw doesn't have that many hours on it-way to few for major work. The scuff marks are quite visible in the cylinder-which in my opinion(since I used to rebuild/bore Kawasaki 2 stoke race engines)are too course but that's life. I removed the spark arrester which was not clogged-for two reasons one is that the saw was so lean and two I run 100 to 1 Amsoil. I figure the reason it started not running right was that it got broken in thereby changing the air/fuel requirements and then I don't know what they've done with the gas lately other than it's now got 10% ethanol in it. Due to the fact I'm not a pro, I put Amsoil stabilzer in the gas and I ordered some of their new Quickshot additive that specifically address the alchohol issue. The guy at Baily's in Woodland said the big saw killer now for suburbinite saw owner is the alchohol settling in the gas-man starts saw with damn near pure alchohol running in the engine.
As far as the H/L limiter caps, my saw doesn't have those. All I do is push in the sleeve thingy's and back out the screw, let the thingy come out then it will restrict the screw movement to one half or so turn. Of course the only problem with this is that I've had to take off the pull starter assembly to do all this but it only takes a minute or two.

I'll follow your advice when I take it to the wood, recheck the muffler,carb, read the spark plug. I may even get a tach since I like tools. I will report later. Tom PS: what irritates me is that I had to rejet/modify my 1990 Ninja because it was too lean, I had to rejet/modify my 2005 Brute Force 750 because it was too lean and wouldn't run well in zero degree weather, I had to modify my 2007 Harley becasue it was too lean. What needs to be done is to lean out the damn government bureaucrates. Their in my gun cabinet, my motorcycles, now they've gotten into the saw box!!!! Vermin

 

[dingeryote]

LOL!!!

Roofgunner, I reckon you'll fit in fine 'round here.LOL!!!

Those carb needles have the new limiters, and there's a special screwdriver made for 'em. See if your dealer can't snag you one, as they take the Govt. suckage out of dealing with the limiters.

I know folks have run 100:1 with the Amsoil, but ya might want to take it back to 50:1 simply for extra insurance.

Yeah our Gas sucks nowdays. Don't let it sit in the saw more than a couple of days, and don't run any mix that's over a month old cuz the Ethanol sucks water right outta the air and into the mix..water sucks as a lubricant and there's no additive that stops the matter.

Trust your ear with the saw in the wood.
If you ever worked with the old 2 cycle 60cc MX bikes, and went through the hassles of jetting them spot on while bouncing off the limiter, you know what to listen for. LOL!!

Good luck to ya!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[SawTroll]

Redmax developed strato, Husqvarna bought Redmax.

....

The 455 was designed before they did that.

I know that the basic carb adjustment is quite a bit different than "normal" on the 575xp etc, but I have no idea of how it is done on a 455/460.

 

[Roofgunner]

455

Just to be safe I checked the muffler screws, the carb attachment screws, and anything else. I even back the high screw out more. I think I've got it. I generally add a little more of the Amsoil so it runs about 90 to 1. I have faith in it since we sold it at the shop in the late 70's. My little Stihl 009L has had a steady diet of it since 1987 and the Husky 36 survived on it since 1995 with the almond orchard despite the MTBE that CA. put in the gas! I just take chainsaws as a personal tool. They are like a hunting rifle, a Harley, and my Glock. I'm very fussy about them. Thanks guys. Tom in MO.