Husky 550xp Stock Bar

[D&B Mack]

Anyone having issues with the stock Pixel bar. Mine is 18", but not sure that is relevant. I seem to be getting chain lock often from wood being jammed underneath and in the sprocket tip. Typically, I may have this happen once a day...maybe but not even usually. But since I've got this saw, it seems to be happening 4 to 5 times a day. To the point I have to take the chain off half the time.

I don't think I am running it any different than any other saw in the past. (Except I am cutting a little faster :wink2

 

[SawTroll]

I have never had such problems with those bars.

My pixel bars are Husky made ones, and not rebranded Oregons - not sure what yours are?

 

[Jet47]

I run the stock 18" on mine and never had an issue.

 

[hamish]

Check you chain tension, your oiler output (turn it up) and what species are you cutting?

 

[D&B Mack]

Check you chain tension, your oiler output (turn it up) and what species are you cutting?

Have done the first two (unless I need to run it tighter than every other saw I have ever ran), I always have maxed out oilers. Red Oak, Pin Oak and Ash.

 

[D&B Mack]

I have never had such problems with those bars.

My pixel bars are Husky made ones, and not rebranded Oregons - not sure what yours are?

How to tell?

I don't have anything to compare it to. I have Stihl, Total and Sugihara bars.

 

[SawTroll]

How to tell?

I don't have anything to compare it to. I have Stihl, Total and Sugihara bars.

A picture of the info on the bar would likely tell me what it is.

 

[D&B Mack]

A picture of the info on the bar would likely tell me what it is.

Here you go ST, thanks for the help.

 

[SawTroll]

Looks like a Norwegian made Husky bar, unless the pattern of the info on the Oregon ones has been changed to match lately (not very likely).

 

[Trailtrimmer]

Do you have a non-NK setup to try?

I love narrow kerf setups for limbing, but they tend to not clear chips as well as the standard .325 or 3/8lp setup when getting in to bigger wood.

 

[D&B Mack]

Do you have a non-NK setup to try?

I love narrow kerf setups for limbing, but they tend to not clear chips as well as the standard .325 or 3/8lp setup when getting in to bigger wood.

I am planning on picking one up; if anything just to see if there is a difference.

 

[SawTroll]

Do you have a non-NK setup to try?

I love narrow kerf setups for limbing, but they tend to not clear chips as well as the standard .325 or 3/8lp setup when getting in to bigger wood.

Many people run 20LPX chain on the NK/Pixel bars, with good results.

I am no fan of the NK chain (H30/95VP(X)) on saws like the 346xp and 550xp.

 

[REJ2]

Many people run 20LPX chain on the NK/Pixel bars, with good results.

I am no fan of the NK chain (H30/95VP(X)) on saws like the 346xp and 550xp.

I use 20LPX on my NK bars without any chip clearance issues.

 

[KenJax Tree]

http://www.arboristsite.com/tradin-post/228622.htm

Make me an offer.

 

[TreePointer]

The same bar (16") is on mine with Oregon LPX and Stihl RSC. I've never had that issue.

I did hose a tip sprocket on a Stihl "E" bar (3/8, .050, 20") on an MS-361. My standard weight bar oil was not getting the job done in 15°F cutting. From then on it's been winter weight oil in cold temps.

 

[mtrees]

I am having the same issue. I took two bars back to the dealer and he warranted them both as he could not break them free. He instructed me to grease the second bar and same result.

I have been running my 261 so I'm not sure about bar #3 yet. Really makes my head red when it's the only bar I have for this saw and I'm out on the mountain and this happens.

I have the same bar as in the picture you posted.

I'm running it on a 550XP as well.

 

[D&B Mack]

I am having the same issue. I took two bars back to the dealer and he warranted them both as he could not break them free. He instructed me to grease the second bar and same result.

I have been running my 261 so I'm not sure about bar #3 yet. Really makes my head red when it's the only bar I have for this saw and I'm out on the mountain and this happens.

I have the same bar as in the picture you posted.

I'm running it on a 550XP as well.

It was bad enough these past few days, twice I had to use a mallet to knock it loose. :taped:

 

[D&B Mack]

Well, I seemed to have found the problem...hopefully.

Since my experience with Husqvarna is limited, especially on newer models; I couldn't identify Pixel chain if it was laying right in front of me...literally. Apparently, the shop sold me standard 325 chain and not pixel. Since having the Pixel on, have not had the nose sprocket clog up. That is only after about 3 days worth of cutting, but good so far, will keep my fingers crossed.

BTW, the pixel chain looks similar to Stihl chain...what's that all about?

 

[TreePointer]

If you are cutting with a .325 pitch, narrow kerf (NK) bar, then whether your chain is pixel (.325 NK) or .325 standard kerf should not matter.

Your new chain is sharp and is producing good sized chips instead of dust. I'm wondering if you let this new chain get dull, you will experience the same sprocket jam with the same weight oil and in the same cold temperatures.

 

[D&B Mack]

If you are cutting with a .325 pitch, narrow kerf (NK) bar, then whether your chain is pixel (.325 NK) or .325 standard kerf should not matter.

Your new chain is sharp and is producing good sized chips instead of dust. I'm wondering if you let this new chain get dull, you will experience the same sprocket jam with the same weight oil and in the same cold temperatures.

I wouldn't think it would matter either. Saw shop thought it might, but they were just guessing. I went through three standard chains on the bar, all new to start with, hand sharpened two of the three, it occurred with each saw regardless of condition status.

I cut primarily oak and ash. The shop thought it might be happening on the ash and the small gap left between the chain kerf and the bar would allow small fragments to begin to build-up and eventually get sucked into the bar groove leading down to the sprocket...this is their theory. I'm not big on theories, I just go by what I experience. After three days with the two chains on, hand sharpened each one a few times, it has not occurred.