Husky 562?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I didn't say it was a Walmart saw. What I don't understand is why they need a primer, or purge, bulb. They went out in the late 60's when Tillotson started becoming THE carb. A properly functioning HS Tilly shouldn't have needed more than 3 or 4 pulls to start. Ever since Husky bought the Poulan line I've seen more and more Poulan in their lower end saws. Don't get me wrong, older Poulans are fine saws. I own a few, but they didn't need primer bulbs either. I sold a lot of 266/181/2100's back in the 80's and knew Husky then as a really pro saw. Maybe someone can enlighten me as to why the "purge" bulb is needed? Some odd EPA idea maybe? I can't see them holding up any longer in the woods than they do on a weed whacker or Walmart Poulan.

And yes, I am ignorant which is why I'm asking the question.
The purge bulb (more commonly called the primer bulb) manually pumps fuel into the carburetor, which purges the air out of the carburetor. Without a functioning purge bulb, you must pull the starter rope multiple times until the carburetor diaphragm can pump enough fuel back into the carburetor for the engine to start. That is the reason, if you do not like them, just delete it. But why?
 
Take one to the woods, you'll change your tune quick.
Just not the tune of that 562 lol.
I am not in favour of primer bulbs, although I do have a few and so far haven't had any trouble with those few.

I doubt very much that they would hold up in extreme cold.
Funny how we can have things we really dislike but they never seem to have a problem.
A few couple that come to mind are the choke on the 421/4300, seems like a piece of junk, but always works, the handles on the 7900 series, if I squeeze them tight they flex in hand, but I don't notice it when cutting. Don't mean to pick on the Dollys, I really like them a lot, except that fat girl the 5105 right @cuinrearview :p.

I can see where they cold be a problem in very cold weather, not something I've seen here in michigan. If it was really cold and you think about it you can just hit the purge build a few times at the house to get the system ready for the day, that or just skip using it until it warms up, the saw will still start.
That is the reason, if you do not like them, just delete it. But why?
I think of them as a fuel system gauge, when they start to look bad, it's time to install new lines/filter/bulb.
Went and looked at a 261 last night, pulled it like 8 times with the choke, figured it was probably choked well enough and since I didn't know the saw I didn't want to flood it, pulled it another 8 times without a pop, pulled the choke out again and gave it another 6 pulls before it popped. Sure would have liked to have a purge bulb on that one.
Husqvarna’s attempt at making a pro saw user friendly?
What a stupid idea, making a saw user friendly.
They should have kept all those rubber mounts, front tensioners, heavy materials, fuel sucking low powered saws too :laugh:.
Yup, and the new fandangly stihl fuel injected saw has one too.
When I saw that I laughed like mad and I'm pretty sure my first comment in a 500i thread was regarding the primer bulb, I think I even posted a picture of it:laughing:. All those yrs of them stihl heads giving us husky guys a hard time about purge bulbs :happy:.
 
The purge bulb (more commonly called the primer bulb) manually pumps fuel into the carburetor, which purges the air out of the carburetor. Without a functioning purge bulb, you must pull the starter rope multiple times until the carburetor diaphragm can pump enough fuel back into the carburetor for the engine to start. That is the reason, if you do not like them, just delete it. But why?


So after years and years of saws that would start in a few pulls, now a primer/purge bulb is needed? What has changed? Honestly, I own Huskies, Jonsered, Stihl, Poulan, Homelite, McCulloch, Solo, Sachs-Dolmar, Pioneer and others. If they don't start after sitting in 6 or 8 pulls there's something wrong with them. There has to be more to this than people being unable to pull a cold saw over a few times. A good Tilotson or Walbro carb ina saw with good fuel lines and seals shouldn't require anyone wearing themselves out trying to start it. I'm not up on these new saws, my newest dating from the mid 90's, but something must have changed to require a primer.
 
So after years and years of saws that would start in a few pulls, now a primer/purge bulb is needed? What has changed? Honestly, I own Huskies, Jonsered, Stihl, Poulan, Homelite, McCulloch, Solo, Sachs-Dolmar, Pioneer and others. If they don't start after sitting in 6 or 8 pulls there's something wrong with them. There has to be more to this than people being unable to pull a cold saw over a few times. A good Tilotson or Walbro carb ina saw with good fuel lines and seals shouldn't require anyone wearing themselves out trying to start it. I'm not up on these new saws, my newest dating from the mid 90's, but something must have changed to require a primer.
You can still start them without a primer, just updated. Who needs AT, M-tronic, fuel injection, ported saws, electric saws, etc.
 
You don't HAVE TO USE IT! In fact I never touch it on my saws that have it. Like you, I was apprehensive of them calling a tiny little saw like the 562 an XP or "professional". My saw shop guy has told me for years I should try one but I kept telling him I thought they were too small. Well I lucked into a truck load of junk saws for free and there was a few 562s in there. I built one, ran it, then built the other 2 because the first one ran so well! It ran so well in fact that its now the PRIMARY saw I use cutting timber! The only time I pick up my 390xp now is if I need s0mething with a bar longer than 20".
 
its "tough" ...to fault the 562xp , i have owned several, even the very early models that ( NEEDED?) .. carb/coil update/replacment for hard start issue ect. ....however the ones i have owned including (early models) started and ran perfect at all times..i am not a commercial user, but you will NOT go wrong with the 562xp , even more so with a late model's , if you can get over the primer/purge bulb ...not a huge fan myself.... i'll bet in the future all new model saws WILL/MAY have them...;)...if we are lucky enough to have gas powered saws ...:surprised3:
 
I prefer a purge/primer bulb as it often cuts down on the tedious number of pulls it takes to start my saws that don't have it.

As others have suggested, the 562xp is THE mid range 60cc beast of a modern pro saw! Only saw I might prefer is the much pricier 70cc 462 c-m.

Open the muffler up and shield the carb against excess heat and you have a sweet singing Maserati that rips!

:cool:

This!!!!

mountain high, mine has been running like a top, -20 the other weekend no probs. primer bulb is the key to fatigue, really nice to only pull 3 times instead of 6-8!!

the first reply to this thread made me laugh, so true
 
You don't HAVE TO USE IT! In fact I never touch it on my saws that have it. Like you, I was apprehensive of them calling a tiny little saw like the 562 an XP or "professional". My saw shop guy has told me for years I should try one but I kept telling him I thought they were too small. Well I lucked into a truck load of junk saws for free and there was a few 562s in there. I built one, ran it, then built the other 2 because the first one ran so well! It ran so well in fact that its now the PRIMARY saw I use cutting timber! The only time I pick up my 390xp now is if I need s0mething with a bar longer than 20".


I'm not saying a 60cc saw can't be a pro quality saw. When the XP line first came out back in the 80's they were top of the line professional saws. That's not my issue at all. I just can't figure why all the sudden they need a purge/primer. And $600.00 for a pro grade saw seems terribly cheap to me. The 2100 was over $600 back in '82.

Thanks to those who took the time to offer constructive answers to my question. I still don't think it's likely I'll ever get into saws this new. I'm stuck in the late 80's and perfectly happy there.
 
Oh! Come on @Bret4207, live a little. Try something new, you may enjoy not having to mess with carbs (as long as your dealer has software). My 262xp costs $580 and gave $600 for a 562xp. My 562 is still here, my 262 is gone, 262 was a great saw for over 20 years. But like that 562 better. Stop by and run all of my primer saws 550xp,562xp for 572xp, may just change your mind, or not. Either way, as long as you stay on Husky side, you are on the correct side.
 
Oh! Come on @Bret4207, live a little. Try something new, you may enjoy not having to mess with carbs (as long as your dealer has software). My 262xp costs $580 and gave $600 for a 562xp. My 562 is still here, my 262 is gone, 262 was a great saw for over 20 years. But like that 562 better. Stop by and run all of my primer saws 550xp,562xp for 572xp, may just change your mind, or not. Either way, as long as you stay on Husky side, you are on the correct side.
And the fuel economy of that 562 is amazing in comparison to the 262. I'm not to concerned with saving money on fuel, it's not much savings if you average 1-2 gallons a week, but you will save a good amount of time filling them which means your cut time average will go down substantially.
When he leaves your place he can slide by here :drinkingcoffee:.
I've got a 346 a 550 mk2 and an ms201c he can try.
You may not like that last one, but I like the stihl offerings in the small saws, never had a problem with the purge bulb on the 540's I've had though.
I just can't figure why all the sudden they need a purge/primer.
I don't have an answer to that specifically, as I've had many of the same models that did not have them, then they did, the 351, 353, 346, ms200-201 are all examples. They do cold start much easier than their predecessors, and all the more when they have sat for a while.
Guessing it's most likely something that helps to get them started quicker, which could be more of an issue with a leaner running saw(epa regs).
All I know is that the saws I have with them do a great job and I've never felt the need to remove them or wished they weren't there.
The in-laws have an old echo with a broken bulb on it, but as I said earlier it is well beyond when the fuel system of that saw should have been serviced, so that would not have broken had it been. That example is the only problem I've personally seen wrong with one and I've owned many and ran many.
 
The in-laws have an old echo with a broken bulb on it, but as I said earlier it is well beyond when the fuel system of that saw should have been serviced, so that would not have broken had it been. That example is the only problem I've personally seen wrong with one and I've owned many and ran many.
I purchased several of those primer covers, do you need one for that echo?
 
I purchased several of those primer covers, do you need one for that echo?
Maybe, it's an older saw(still runs great though), I'll get the model when I'm there next. I brought it and their no start echo trimmer home, one of the BIL's must have thought I was going to steal them o_O, because my MIL asked me to bring them back right away! I returned them with the new carb in a bag taped to the trimmer, it's still sitting right where it was. I didn't want someone to run the trim saw and burn it up because of the bulb, it's bad enough they hardly know how to start it, it usually pops for me on the 3-4 pull:chainsaw:. Thanks for the offer let you know soon.
 
I'm not saying a 60cc saw can't be a pro quality saw. When the XP line first came out back in the 80's they were top of the line professional saws. That's not my issue at all. I just can't figure why all the sudden they need a purge/primer. And $600.00 for a pro grade saw seems terribly cheap to me. The 2100 was over $600 back in '82.

Thanks to those who took the time to offer constructive answers to my question. I still don't think it's likely I'll ever get into saws this new. I'm stuck in the late 80's and perfectly happy there.


Be glad they're only $600. Mine was $800+ after tax on the West Coast; missed the 10% off sale by a month last year cause I just couldn't afford it at the time. Still, the cheapest I've seen them not on sale around here is $759 before tax. That is with a 24" B/C, though I dropped my newest one to a 20".

Also, $600 in the 80's is $1200-$1500 in today's money. Inflation/devaluation of the dollar is always something to keep in mind.
 
Went and looked at a 261 last night, pulled it like 8 times with the choke, figured it was probably choked well enough and since I didn't know the saw I didn't want to flood it, pulled it another 8 times without a pop, pulled the choke out again and gave it another 6 pulls before it popped. Sure would have liked to have a purge bulb on that one.

Fed up straining shoulder needlessly with multiple pulls on a cold Stihl/no purge bulb saw? I think I've figured the cranky starting 261 c-m out. (this technique *might not apply to standard carb version)

For the first 6 pulls in start position, just do it like you're squeezing a purge bulb (use a lazy ass pull with a don't give a damn attitude -shoulder likes this), then and only then, give it a hard drop pull and she'll fire up usually on the first or second hard drop. No use wearing your shoulder out until you've lazily pulled enough fuel into the carb - just prime these no-purge- bulb saws with 6 lazzy-ass/don't-give-a-damn pulls at first :cool:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top