husky cuts 2-3" sideways, then binds

[scottr]

I don't know where to look for this. is there a number on the packaging, it do I just measure the tooth width ?

There is a number on the side of the cutter near the raker .

 

[Chevboy0167]

Worn, loose or broken AV mounts???

 

[scottr]

The picture of the bar shows the narrow kerf symbol .
Is the chain also a narrow kerf chain ?

Looked again at your first picture (post 8) of the sprocket and chain .
The chain is SP33 X-Cut narrow kerf chain .

 

[arathol]

Guys, I am no where near as experienced as most of you, so I was really hesitant to jump in here, but I can think of one thing that nobody has mentioned. I just read the whole thread from the beginning, and if we are getting straight info from the OP, it is REALLY hard to ignore the fact that he says he has tried THREE brand new chains and multiple bars (at least one of them new) with the identical results. Even with dirty wood, it becomes very hard to believe this is just coincidence. Add to that the test with a different saw that did not develop the problem.

Of course, the key to long distance troubleshooting is knowing that you are actually being told only true facts (and all of them). I do wonder a bit about the total number of cuts that have been made on one tree, considering 10+ cuts on each of at least four tests, and still most of the tree is available for pictures? Sure, he could have just been cutting wafers, but is that likely? But I'll ignore that for now. There is no doubt that the cut end shown is about the most horrendously botched cut/re cut/re re cut piece of wood I have seen, so there is no doubt that something is borked here. I know all the previous replies are just people truly attempting to help, but there are only so many times you can tell a guy that his chain just ain't sharp when he has bought three new ones in a row to test.

So I am left to conclude that the problem HAS to be something specific to that saw, and it cannot be just a dull chain or incorrect bar based on the provided info. What about a problem MOUNTING the bar? I do not own a Husky, but I do have multiple brands, and different saws have different mounting plates and such. And of course there is always an issue with foreign debris in the mounting area on a used saw. Crap under parts of the bar can cause it to be out of alignment either vertically or horizontally. I suggest that the entire area needs to be closely inspected, ESPECIALLY the bar and sprocket alignment. Not only does the end of the bar have to be in perfect position for the sprocket, but the full bar needs to be exactly perpendicular to the sprocket and not canted. I had a cheap Poulan that would regularly loosen the bottom motor mounting bolts, allowing the motor to twist and cause an incorrect alignment. Has this saw ever been taken apart, where something in the motor or motor mounting could have been done wrong? Are all the mounting bolts tight? Is the chain tensioner pin properly positioned in the bar? Is there any play in the sprocket or bar when pushed, pulled, and wiggled? If that chain is indeed hitting something, the evidence around the sprocket and bar mounting area should be rather obvious (and don't forget to examine the inside of the case cover too). Can the OP find a friend with another Husky to actually pull off the bar and carefully compare just exactly how it is mounted, side-by-side with his own saw?

Well, he said he has had this saw for years and never had a problem. Now, when cutting this tree, the cutters are clearly being damaged as shown in his pictures. The logical conclusion is that there is something in the wood. Not for nothing but I have seen professionals go through 3 or 4 chains trying to make one cut before realizing that they are cutting through a row of barbed wire.....All it takes is a fraction of a second and the damage is done. The saw itself seems to be functioning correctly, the chain and bar are correct for the saw, both chain and bar are new and both are .050 .325 narrow kerf, there isn't much else that it could be given the damage shown. The simplest answer is usually the right answer.
In post #21 on page 2 the OP made a reference to something that has not been explained.
This picture was posted

and he wrote

crap. that chain has maybe 5 minutes of run on it. over gotta get my phone camera on it so I can see them.
I'm guessing that's what had damaged the last 3 chains I've had in it

What exactly is in that picture, and what is he referring to as having damaged all 3 chains?

 

[Mauser]

40+ cuts later, all in the same mystery spot except all the perfect cuts with the new saw? The fact that the new saw never developed a problem pretty much removes the possibility that it was the wood causing all the damage. No way of making an intelligent diagnosis, or even a cedible guess, without all the true facts. I don't think we have them.

 

[ChasSC]

Hard to diagnose a lot of things without being hands on, and we can only go by the information given, but I wouldn't have bought 3 new bars and chains before I figured out what was wrong. This was what I was talking about way back. The chain is riding on the edge of the sproket, possibly bad bearings.

 

[12fergus]

From the appearance of this cutter you're hitting something....

 

[12fergus]

The cutting edge of tooth appears to have been ground and over heated leaving an edge that a file won't touch or difficult to cut to remove problem edge. Iam not saying Iam correct , just what it looks like me. If that is the case then that chain will never cut until that burr is removed and returned to razor sharp. That black edge is caused by heat from sharpening , not by mail or ground debri.

It doesn't take much of a hit to do what you describe.

 

[arathol]

The cutting edge of tooth appears to have been ground and over heated leaving an edge that a file won't touch or difficult to cut to remove problem edge. Iam not saying Iam correct , just what it looks like me. If that is the case then that chain will never cut until that burr is removed and returned to razor sharp. That black edge is caused by heat from sharpening , not by mail or ground debri.

The corners are rounded off on the right side of the chain. Its fairly obvious that this one has hit something pretty hard.

 

[buzz sawyer]

This is semi- chisel chain, is it not? Other pics look like the corners were never pointed like full chisel.

 

[arathol]

This is semi- chisel chain, is it not? Other pics look like the corners were never pointed like full chisel.

Other pics show this on what is supposed to be the same chain....

 

[singinwoodwackr]

The corners are rounded off on the right side of the chain. Its fairly obvious that this one has hit something pretty hard.

That most definitely hit something on the side other than wood.

 

[ChasSC]

Look at the blue indicators, even the rivets at the top took a hit. Could have tweaked the "original" bar getting it out of the bind. I don't know. Maybe the best thing is to take it to the place you bought the bars and chains from and let them have a hands on look at it.

 

[blades]

On top of everything else there is the, way out in left field probability, of mis-marked items.

i recently ran into a similar cut curving problem - covered all the aforementioned bases, down to the point where it is a bar problem -old bar, lot of hours on it. New bar on order, and a bar rail closer also, got to remember to take a depth guage ( for the bar slot) home to check its depth as it has been dressed a couple times to square rails up. Although when tensioning chain the chain links seem to be riding the rails all around, so I do not think it is a slot depth problem but one of width.

 

[njdaveskiing]

new bar, new chain, correct pitch on drive dog vs chain. saw cut about 8-10 10" cleanly, then started cutting curves and binding in the cut.

I've changed the bar/chain twice now with the same result.

what have I missed ?

Chain too loose? Bar wrong width to chain, or chain wrong width to bar? teeth sharpened uneven?

 

[blades]

If all the Numbers match between the bar and the chain including the lopro / standard height chain/ narrow kerf types the only other things things I can think of, which is somewhat easy to miss, is the tension adjust screw and rail/stud assembly is out of wack or you are not getting the bar properly seated on it( the stud) which would set the bar off plumb. Another thought is the guide plate behind the bar has so much wood chips/dust /crud behind it to the saw body that again it is pushing the bar off plumb. On some saws there is a removable plastic block at the top and somewhat towards the rear the bar ( wear item) that snaps inplace- also could be out of wack or mangled as the cutter tooth rides that- the guide plate does not cover it. yep I'm grasping at straws here but have had a few come in the shop that way. Oh and if there is a chain catcher down below the bar make sure that is not all bent out shape forcing something there. there are model numbers stamped into the drive links or on the side straps of the chains themselves, those # tell exactly which type of chain you have ( just incase packaging isn't right.
short note: back in the 80's GM managed to put left hand door latch assemblies in right hand packaging - several thousand worth. yep, I needed the right hand assembly for the company van. The Stealership was not amused as it was a warranty repair.

 

[bob kern]

Maybe take one of the chains for a machine sharpen/ raker set. Have the bar looked at by another set of eyes just in case. Address the sprocket issue and then move to a different tree. I have got in to trees that apparently had had 175 three stands nailed to it in different places throughout the years. I k ow the battery saw did well but just maybe it got lucky and missed all the hardware.
I certainly would go back and look at the cut from when the problem started.

 

[ohgood]

40+ cuts later, all in the same mystery spot except all the perfect cuts with the new saw? The fact that the new saw never developed a problem pretty much removes the possibility that it was the wood causing all the damage. No way of making an intelligent diagnosis, or even a cedible guess, without all the true facts. I don't think we have them.

what else would you like to know ? keep in mind I'm barely an amateur compared to the guys here. typical home owner usage and cutting single track. that's all I use it for occasionally.

 

[ohgood]

Hard to diagnose a lot of things without being hands on, and we can only go by the information given, but I wouldn't have bought 3 new bars and chains before I figured out what was wrong. This was what I was talking about way back. The chain is riding on the edge of the sproket, possibly bad bearings.
View attachment 949593

I have no idea what the chain to sprocket interface is supposed to look like. I assume this is normal.

 

[Stihl a grasshopper]

Sharpen the chain and try it in different wood to see if it still happens to help rule whether it’s the wood or saw?