Husqvarna 162 SE

[ColoForester]

Hey All.

I may acquire a Husqvarna 162 SE from my employer. It has sat unused for over 10 years. Yesterday at lunch I got it running. Just put a little fuel in, primed the carb and 2 pulls its running. We initially thought it was toast.

How much would one be willing to pay for this saw?
I was thinking $40?

Is it worth messing with?

Visually its not too pretty (likely been run in pine and spruce its whole life and maybe some wildland fire use) and missing B&C but with a little TLC it seems like it could be a good running back-up saw for me.


Haven't checked compression but seems to run strong.

Thoughts?

 

[bowtechmadman]

I'd definitely give 40. Clean her up good, may want to change crank seals due to the age to prevent toasting it and run her.

 

[smokey7]

Very good saw. Twins to the jonny 630 my favorite saw.

 

[ColoForester]

Thanks for the replies. Brought the saw home today and started tearing in and found a few of issues.

First was this thing leaks fuel, bad. Seems to be coming from between the crankcase and the fuel tank. Bad fuel tank? No noticeable cracks. Hoses look fine.

Second, flywheel is all chewed up. Looks like the flywheel ate its shroud and screws and who knows what else.

Third, the Muffler stud is snapped off in the cylinder. Nothing to grab a hold of. May try an extractor set or drill it out.

Not sure if this is worth the investment of buying/fixing. Haven’t bought it yet. Just looking a little deeper before I drop money on the saw and replacement parts.

What do you all think? Parts are tough to find for this thing.


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[holeycow]

if you can get that for 40 bucks its a steal as long as the motor is good. Old good saws are just plain tougher than new good saws. Or at least certain models have been proven over the long haul. Every new model has no history and no reputation. That takes years to develop. The parts you mentioned shouldn't cost much. You might be into it for a hundred bucks and some elbow grease. That would be a darn good saw for a hundred bucks. Or a minor money pit that will still end up to be a nice saw and a third of the price of a new one.

The chewed-up flywheel needs to be investigated. What the heck happened there?

 

[Wallypedal]

I own one I bought new in 1977. I used it logging for 3 years, then since as my main firewood saw. Did a little port modding and ran it in contests, mostly against Stihls. It won them all. The carb was touchy and the needle linkage would get worn where the fork fit under the little hat on the diaphragm. The brown gas line turned to mush and had to be replaced. Has new carb kit, new fuel line and filter, new air filter, oil pump tube sealed, rim sprocket/clutch. New anti-vibe buffer mounts. I have an old square filed 72LP chain on there that still works great. From what you described, I'd love to have it, but not sure it is $40 worth. The broken stud could be fixed like you say. If the jug, piston and rings are good that's important. Depends on how ambitious and handy you are. I think, with the fuel leak and all, it should be taken down completely and new seals and gaskets installed, including crank seals. I have used the chainsawr.com for parts and references. Part diagrams and number references are available. I don't know about a flywheel, but many of the parts interchanged between models - so checking that is important. Just searching for a "Husqvarna 162SE flywheel" may not turn up much initially. Good luck!

 

[Conquistador3]

I seem to recall there were two types of flywheels for the Husqvarna 162SE/J'red 630.
One is still relatively easy to come by used, the other is possibly made of hen teeth. Check which one you have available before committing to buy because it can make a real difference between $25+shipping for a used flywheel and ending up with an unserviceable saw.

Note that many online parts website list as available parts that haven't been for years now, as I've learned the hard way on more than one occasion. Always check with a knowledgeable dealer what's available and what's not.

 

[ColoForester]

Here is a photo of the chewed up flywheel.

And what’s left of the shroud.

Not sure how that happens.


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[cuinrearview]

That flywheel has just been "lightened". You got a free performance upgrage.

 

[ColoForester]

So I’m thinking this will turn into a build thread. Mods, do we have a section in the saw forum for that?

Update: got the exhaust stud out of the cylinder. Cheapo craftsman extractor set for the win.


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[holeycow]

Is that the correct nut on the flywheel?

 

[ColoForester]

Is that the correct nut on the flywheel?

Your guess is a good as mine. It’s a 14 or 15mm I think.


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[Cantdog]

Ouch!!!......I believe you'll find that an early 61 Husky or 630 Jonsereds flywheel will fix you up. Look at the edge of the boss opposite where the magnets are located......you should find EM Sweden 501 52 52 02 stamped there. This is the part number for this flywheel. This flywheel was used with the two piece ign up until the late 80 and early 90s on some models. These are not at all difficult to find. You clutch however is very specific as your saw will have a coarse thread on the PTO side. There is only one clutch that will work......these are much more difficult to find in good shape.....not impossible as they were used on early 61s as well as the 630s but not as plentiful as the late fine thread ones are.... so take good care of yours if it is good now. Another bit of advise......if your muffler is the old "fish gill" type and what I mean by that is where the exhaust exits the muffler there are 3 or 4 slits that are bent outwards to form a louver type exhaust.......DO NOT put it back on the saw as is.... either replace the whole thing from a later two piece ign saw or at the very least take it apart and remove the partition that holds the spark screen. I have had these metal baffles fatigue between the holes, break up and get ingested back into the cyl with catastrophic results. DID NOT end well!!!

As far as worth goes.....it's practically worthless if you want to sell it to make money or even trade in......that said....if you buy a new saw that will do what that one will....you're looking at $7-$800....so if you want a project that ends up as a fine old powerful saw that you intend to use yourself.....it's practically priceless.....very good family of saws to work on and many many parts to swap and upgrade to if you want.

 

[Cantdog]

So I’m thinking this will turn into a build thread. Mods, do we have a section in the saw forum for that?

Update: got the exhaust stud out of the cylinder. Cheapo craftsman extractor set for the win.


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Not a mod but yes it's fine for this thread to become a build tread......we love 'em.......and we really love pics!!!

 

[ColoForester]

Ouch!!!......I believe you'll find that an early 61 Husky or 630 Jonsereds flywheel will fix you up. Look at the edge of the boss opposite where the magnets are located......you should find EM Sweden 501 52 52 02 stamped there. This is the part number for this flywheel. This flywheel was used with the two piece ign up until the late 80 and early 90s on some models. These are not at all difficult to find. You clutch however is very specific as your saw will have a coarse thread on the PTO side. There is only one clutch that will work......these are much more difficult to find in good shape.....not impossible as they were used on early 61s as well as the 630s but not as plentiful as the late fine thread ones are.... so take good care of yours if it is good now. Another bit of advise......if your muffler is the old "fish gill" type and what I mean by that is where the exhaust exits the muffler there are 3 or 4 slits that are bent outwards to form a louver type exhaust.......DO NOT put it back on the saw as is.... either replace the whole thing from a later two piece ign saw or at the very least take it apart and remove the partition that holds the spark screen. I have had these metal baffles fatigue between the holes, break up and get ingested back into the cyl with catastrophic results. DID NOT end well!!!

As far as worth goes.....it's practically worthless if you want to sell it to make money or even trade in......that said....if you buy a new saw that will do what that one will....you're looking at $7-$800....so if you want a project that ends up as a fine old powerful saw that you intend to use yourself.....it's practically priceless.....very good family of saws to work on and many many parts to swap and upgrade to if you want.

Looks like this has the incorrect flywheel. Probably what caused the damage. I’ll order one with the correct part number unless someone says otherwise.



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[ColoForester]

I made some good progress today:

Got the flywheel off.
Ordered new stud, muffler support, front AV mounts, flywheel and found a NOS outside felling dog.


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[Cantdog]

Hopefully I haven't given you bad advise on the flywheel.......that does have the two piece ign..yes? Module on the lower left and spark coil at about 3 o'clock on the right?

 

[Den]

ColoForester, you will be pleasantly surprised by how powerful and well-balanced that 162SE really is. I bought one about 6 years ago, put a carb kit and fuel line on it, and it runs magnificent. Bowtechmadman had some excellent advice about putting crank seals on it while its already taken apart... go ahead and do that. I still need to do that on mine.

 

[ColoForester]

Hopefully I haven't given you bad advise on the flywheel.......that does have the two piece ign..yes? Module on the lower left and spark coil at about 3 o'clock on the right?

Yeah it does. I ordered one for a 162 off eBay. Seller offers returns. Should still for right? Mine seems to be a 1978 model if the numbers are correct on the data plate.


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[ColoForester]

ColoForester, you will be pleasantly surprised by how powerful and well-balanced that 162SE really is. I bought one about 6 years ago, put a carb kit and fuel line on it, and it runs magnificent. Bowtechmadman had some excellent advice about putting crank seals on it while its already taken apart... go ahead and do that. I still need to do that on mine.

Haven’t been able to find crank seals. Chainsawr is sold out. Haven’t looked too hard though. The ones in there seem to be fine. Not sure how to tell exactly. They are still soft. This saw was serviced, purged and put away. The carb looks rebuilt and a new plug.


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