Husqvarna 268

[Sepia]

Those pleated HD filters are NLA, so if that's what you have you will have to take care of it, or convert to the regular hooded style.

 

[Eric howes]

I mean if I am going into the saw to freshin it up and I can find a oem 272 top end for the right price why not do the upgrade. If not a ring and base delete will be what I'll do....

 

[Sepia]

Okay I read your post again and now I get it - I'm a little slow at times. The pleated filter was a "west coast" HD filter option but is no longer available. It used a different air inlet to mount the filter.

 

[Cantdog]

Just checked the compression. Right at about 155 to 160. What should the compression be? Piston has some light scoring but doesn't look bad. Maybe a new ring and remove the base gasket will be the route I'll go. And yes a 18" bar is what we run around here

That's about right compression wise for one of these in good condition.....might pick up a couple more lbs with a base gasket delete....just be sure to check the squish...doesn't want be much below 0.020"...also be sure you don't over do it with the sealer and plug up your impulse corridor. I think you'll notice a good difference with a ring and gasket delete. Good place to start.....can always go back in later and change thing up. The other thing I would suggest is changing out the crank seals and the oil pump side o-ring.......cheap insurance to have a good solid platform to build mods on.

 

[Cantdog]

I have always wanted to try one of these kits....they call it a 670/625 Jonsered kit but the 670 was 50 MM almost identical to the Husky 268XP and non XP cyl.....this Meteor kit is 52MM like the 272XP....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JONSERED-6...976423&hash=item43e8a69da7:g:B~wAAMXQvJVRTMhm

Comes with everything you need except crank seals......sometimes mixing and matching these saw parts the bolts/intake etc can be a pain if you don't have the entire upgrade setup......I think if I was going to spend the $$$ I'd give one of these a shot and pick up a 260 carb off ebay or somewhere....

 

[Sepia]

I am currently fixing up a 625, and since I don't want to change the whole intake and choke system, I am just going to install a 670 piston/cylinder as an upgrade.

 

[Cantdog]

I am currently fixing up a 625, and since I don't want to change the whole intake and choke system, I am just going to install a 670 piston/cylinder as an upgrade.

That is certainly the easiest way to up grade a 625......if you could find a 250A carb somewhere that would be helpful too.....basically the same as the Husky version 260.....

 

[Sepia]

I have always wanted to try one of these kits....they call it a 670/625 Jonsered kit but the 670 was 50 MM almost identical to the Husky 268XP and non XP cyl.....this Meteor kit is 52MM like the 272XP....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JONSERED-6...976423&hash=item43e8a69da7:g:B~wAAMXQvJVRTMhm

Comes with everything you need except crank seals......sometimes mixing and matching these saw parts the bolts/intake etc can be a pain if you don't have the entire upgrade setup......I think if I was going to spend the $$$ I'd give one of these a shot and pick up a 260 carb off ebay or somewhere....

I had a look at that kit and it looks like a pretty good value and pretty complete. The one interesting item in that kit that caught my eye was the manifold with the external impulse fitting. That looks like a good design and I may contact the seller and see if he sells them separately.

I have a few Tillotson carbs here including a 260A. I am hoping I can just swap shafts from the 625 carb and install the external impulse cover.

 

[Cantdog]

That manifold conversion is pretty easy to do yourself.....here is a pic of the one on the 61/268XP in my sig. This is a 250A recirculating carb....this setup has the Jonsereds style high idle/choke and also the Husky thumb activated high idle. I just grabbed a fuel inlet fitting off another Tilly carb and bored a very slightly smaller hole in the plastic manifold to the impulse corridor. However there is a better way......if you look at the face of the Jonsered carb from the manifold side you will see the a hole started at about 12 o'clock.....it is perhaps /16" deep......take the top off the carb so you can see what you're doing and continue boring that hole until it comes through into the impulse area.....perhaps another 1/8" in.....then just replace the top cover with the impulse pickup with any regular non impulse top cover. When using the hard manifold this eliminates the external impulse hose and fittings but retains the Jonsered choke/high idle linkage.




Here is a pic of the hole that needs to be continued.....

 

[Sepia]

That is some great info Cantdog! Wish I could "like" it twice!

 

[Griffdog1]

Well just for reference, I would give my right nut to find a usable mahle 272 cylinder in australia - they just never come up. I would never use an aftermarket cylinder if I could clean up a original mahle or gilardoni and use a metor piston with caber rings. The standard 268 is actually a very nice saw with good solid a linear power. The cylinders almost always clean up nicely and with a gasket delete, the muffler opened up and a slight timing advance they go really well and are a very reliable saw. The standard 268 filter system is the best of all the huskies in this line, using the same filter as a 262 but in its own airbox. Its a neat and functional system that works. I would clean up your current cylinder, open up the intake and exhaust ports and see how you go. All the 266/268/272 saws have a rawer feel to the 372, which is a better saw in all respects, but the 268 is possibly the easiest saw in the world to work on and the fact that you can still get all the bits makes them an appealing saw to mod - just be aware that because the cases are so robust, that there are not a huge amount of original cylinders lying around and anyone in the know will keep one that they have because they are a great saw to rebuilt - I have about 5 sets of cases that I am just waiting for cylinders to turn up for - might take years!!!

 

[Cantdog]

View attachment 618320 Well just for reference, I would give my right nut to find a usable mahle 272 cylinder in australia - they just never come up. I would never use an aftermarket cylinder if I could clean up a original mahle or gilardoni and use a metor piston with caber rings. The standard 268 is actually a very nice saw with good solid a linear power. The cylinders almost always clean up nicely and with a gasket delete, the muffler opened up and a slight timing advance they go really well and are a very reliable saw. The standard 268 filter system is the best of all the huskies in this line, using the same filter as a 262 but in its own airbox. Its a neat and functional system that works. I would clean up your current cylinder, open up the intake and exhaust ports and see how you go. All the 266/268/272 saws have a rawer feel to the 372, which is a better saw in all respects, but the 268 is possibly the easiest saw in the world to work on and the fact that you can still get all the bits makes them an appealing saw to mod - just be aware that because the cases are so robust, that there are not a huge amount of original cylinders lying around and anyone in the know will keep one that they have because they are a great saw to rebuilt - I have about 5 sets of cases that I am just waiting for cylinders to turn up for - might take years!!!

I hear ya there. But in the afore mentioned aftermarket kit the P&C are from Meteor and though advertised as for the 670 Jonsered it is 52mm with a solid intake more or less exactly like the 272XP. I wouldn't bother with a China made set but I've always found the Italian made Meteor pistons very good quality so if I wanted to do a solid upgrade this kit seems to come with everything needed.....little spendy but these days buying a new 70cc Husky is not cheap either.....so if you had a good lower and all the plastic etc.....not a bad deal.

 

[Cliff R]

"All the 266/268/272 saws have a rawer feel to the 372, which is a better saw in all respects, but the 268 is possibly the easiest saw in the world to work on"

For sure those are excellent saws. My brother has a 266SE and I have a 268XP "Special". Both have at least a zillion hours on them and flawless. About 2 years ago he "smoked" the P/C in his 266SE when the carb filter screen got plugged up and leaned it out.

We obtained a nice-used P/C from a board member here and it's back out there getting it done. He also has a 372XP and we ran them side by side last weekend cutting over 5 cords of firewood from a big pile of logs.

As good as the 266SE/268XP's run, the 372 is "smoother" with excellent anti-vibe, broad flat power curve and simply makes a bit more power/cuts faster. My 268XP in particular is "raspy", and loves running wide open and high rpm's. I also outfitted it a few years back with hard rubber anti-vibe mounts as the original "soft" mounts were actually allowing the case to move enough to reduce throttle angle and hurt power if you were "pushing" it pretty hard. The hard mounts corrected that issue, but certainly didn't help things out in terms of how easy it is on the operator!......Cliff

 

[Eric howes]

So I ordered a 272 p/c kit but in the mean time I took the stock open port cylinder off and cleaned up the exhaust and intake ports and deleted the base gasket. Seems to run strong as is but needs to be dialed in. Of course up here in northern maine the outside temp has been fluctuating alot so it's hard to get a solid carb tune on it right now. I figure I wanted to run it for a while with the 268 open port cylinder fbefore I put the 272 after market p/c so I can get a solid comparison

 

[Cantdog]

So I ordered a 272 p/c kit but in the mean time I took the stock open port cylinder off and cleaned up the exhaust and intake ports and deleted the base gasket. Seems to run strong as is but needs to be dialed in. Of course up here in northern maine the outside temp has been fluctuating alot so it's hard to get a solid carb tune on it right now. I figure I wanted to run it for a while with the 268 open port cylinder fbefore I put the 272 after market p/c so I can get a solid comparison

I'm all ears (and eyes)!!! I think if you can do the same type of clean up on the Meteor cyl you'll be happier in the end.....keep us posted when you get going...we like pics!!!
Been pretty whacky weather/temps down here on the coast too this winta!!!

 

[Eric howes]

My p/c came in the mail today. Just missing the decomposed. Should smooth the intake and exhaust up just enough to take the casting out or just leave it?

 

[Eric howes]

If all else fails I can always put the 48mm p/c back in. Where the 48mm cylinder is a open port the 52mm closed port will have to be a upgrade even thhough it's aftermarket.....I guess we will find out

 

[Sepia]

My p/c came in the mail today. Just missing the decomposed. Should smooth the intake and exhaust up just enough to take the casting out or just leave it?

Smoothing the ports can't hurt as long as you clean the cylinder well with lots of soapy water when you are finished. Even if not cleaning up the ports, absolutely check all the port edges in the cylinder and ensure that they all have a nice bevel to them. You don't want any sharp edges to catch a ring.

 

[Cantdog]

What brand of 272 kit did you end up with?

 

[Eric howes]

What brand of 272 kit did you end up with?

Farmertec