Husqvarna 268

[Deleted member 117362]

^best answer.

 

[KYsawman]

The 272 top end is a good upgrade to the 268 especially is your 268 is the open port model. The 272xp is no slouch of a saw with the squish set and a good muffler mod. The two series saws do not turn the rpm that the three series do so they will fell a little slower, but the two series makes up for it in torque. there is a reason that the 272xp is still being made in overseas markets they are a good running and very reliable saw that is very easy to work on.

 

[hseII]

The 272 top end is a good upgrade to the 268 especially is your 268 is the open port model. The 272xp is no slouch of a saw with the squish set and a good muffler mod. The two series saws do not turn the rpm that the three series do so they will fell a little slower, but the two series makes up for it in torque. there is a reason that the 272xp is still being made in overseas markets they are a good running and very reliable saw that is very easy to work on.

Why change up the tooling in Brazil for something new when this Saw is still doing a good job?

I would say Economics is also the driver for that.

 

[KYsawman]

The biggest factor is emissions, other places do not have the strict laws that the us has. You can still buy 346xp and 372 non x-torque in brazil also. My OEM 272xp cylinder kit came from brazil.

 

[Cliff R]

Is your 268 an XP model with the closed port P/C?

268's came in several flavors, mine is the 268 XP "Special", has KILLER compression, closed port P/C, and more power than it needs with a 20" or shorter bar on it. I wouldn't touch it for any reason and have ran it side by side with 272's and 372XP's and depending on how sharp the chain is there really isn't much difference between all of them if they are sporting 18 or 20" bars......IMHO.

My brother owns a stock 372XP and it really shows nothing more than my 268SPS does until you put a 24" bar on it and really get into some bigger material. For firewood cutting and cutting tops left over from logging operations like we do most of the time, we just grab one or the other and go at it, both are PLENTY of saw for this type of work and hardly a nickels worth of difference between them unless you are worried about a second or two difference on a stop watch if really looking closely at this deal......FWIW

I've upgraded a number of these saws over the years to the 268/272 closed port P/C's. It was mentioned at least once to stick with OEM, and I'll third that recommendation.......Cliff

 

[Eric howes]

Thanks for the info guys, all good stuff. Sorry if I come off sounding rude, that's not it at all. Reading words compared to talking to someone is alot different

 

[Cantdog]

Welcome to the site! Cliff asked the question that I was going to ask.....but since you didn't answer him, I'll ask again... is your 268 an XP saw ? The non XP saws are good runners but don't hold a candle to a 268XP....squish should get to just about 0.020" with a base gasket delete....this is an easy improvement, gives you more compression but also lowers the exhaust port increasing torque....of course a muff mod is also needed....run a 20" full chisel with an 8 pin and you'll wear a big grin.

 

[Eric howes]

No it's just a regular 268

 

[KYsawman]

If it is a regular 268 than an OEM 272xp top end would be a notable improvement, along with muffler mod and squish set. May also want to check the carb to see if it is the biggest Venturi size.

 

[ncfarmboy]

Tillotson HS 260 is THE carb for these saws.
Shep

 

[hseII]

No it's just a regular 268

As popular as these saws are, it is possible you have a different cover, or you could have just a regular 268.

Share some pics of the saw & the tag.

Try the mods mentioned before completely changing a functioning saw.
You might be surprised.

 

[Eric howes]

Here is some pics of the saw

 

[president]

dont let your chain eat them shoe laces now

 

[Eric howes]

No worries, wasn't using it when I took the pictures

 

[Eric howes]

What's the difference between a xp and a non xp? Also where is the best place to find a oem 272 top end....ebay?

 

[computeruser]

Having owned and run both...I wouldn't bother 272-ing a closed port 268. There just isn't that much difference between the two in real world use, particularly at shorter bar lengths (e.g. 20" or less). I think that the 266-268-272 platform is a great 20" saw in hardwood just as it comes from the factory, and in that role it doesn't need messing with to perform well. There are more gains to be had in how you sharpen the chain, frankly.

If you elect to swap P/C to 272, buy it from one of our dealers. They'll give you a good price on the parts you need.

If it were my saw and I was hell-bent on upgrading performance, I'd just suck it up and get the saw built along the lines of the old 'do it once, do it right' theory. A ported 272 is a strong machine, and surprisingly nimble if you keep your bar weight down via a laminated bar or a lightweight if you are intent on running a longer bar.

 

[grack]

+1 keep the 268
Refresh if needed lines kit ring etc.
Great saws not far enough behind a 272 to mess with.

 

[Cantdog]

Well it is....that far behind a 272XP....the Gilardoni open port P&C is an excellent top end....very well made with one more cooling fin than the Mahle 268XP cyl......this is what Eric has....good unit. That said the Mahle 268XP cyl with the windowed piston makes much more power...even stock. The 61/268XP conversion in my sig started the process with a 50MM Gilardoni that I ported and eventually moved up to the XP cyl...ported more. The open port ran great and was powerful but the Mahle XP P&C moved the whole thing up 2-3 notches.....very noticeable increase... The 272XP upgrade is better again and the most talked about upgrade but as has been said not nearly as huge an increase over the 268XP. They both produce the same rpm stock so cut speed is almost indistinguishable.....until.....you pass the 24" bar length.....only then does the 272XP really show itself...and the old adage of "There is no replacement for displacement" is proven once again at say 32" bar length. The OP is from Maine.....so I have a pretty good idea of the stems he's cutting....20" bar is max around here on a work saw......this whole family, no matter what cc version in orange or Red and Black handles absolutely the best with an 18" bar.....if you are concerned with a saws handling abilities for limbing, working in the brush/tops etc. Excellent family of saws......from "mild to wild"...and then "wilder" if need be.....

 

[Eric howes]

Just checked the compression. Right at about 155 to 160. What should the compression be? Piston has some light scoring but doesn't look bad. Maybe a new ring and remove the base gasket will be the route I'll go. And yes a 18" bar is what we run around here

 

[Eric howes]

Also was there a oem filter up grade for there saws? I see there is 2 different styles. One like the 372 have and the on my 268 came with.