husqvarna 346xp
- Thread starter don5477
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crabby cooter
ArboristSite Operative
put a carb kit in it
ktm1217
Kyle
Sounds like it needs new crank case seals put in. You should really pressure/vacuum test to find the leak.
I've had that happen from time to time on saws that were 100% sometimes it's simply a tuning issue, usually too rich on the low speed. What can happen is fuel builds up in different areas of the case, and when you move the saw around the saw can load up or run a bit lean. With the saw warm set the low as lean as you can while still maintaining good acceleration. The 346 does not like the low to be on the rich side tuning, most saws don't. If this doesn't rectify the symptoms, a vac/pressure test is in order. Going through the carb is never a bad idea.
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Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Had the same issue with my 346OE. Was dreading the thought of leaky crank seals needing to be replaced but I swapped the carb out and it ran perfect. I would rebuild the carb first. Also check the fuel line for a pinhole leak...usually in the tank portion. Also, a small intake boot leak can cause this condition depending on the position of the saw. But check the carb first.
Yeah definitely a symptom of a leaky boot as well. I had a 5100 that behaved that way with a leaky carb boot.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
stock Zama is junk on these. whenever these saws are running iffy the most probable cause is the carb needing a diaphragm kit.
Agreed. I've replaced a few of them on brand new saws.
As Andre said lean the idle out and run it for a bit, if that doesn't take care of it don't run the saw without getting it diagnosed.
If you choose to run it you may be ordering a top end when it wasn't needed initially, and then you will still have to fix the air leak.
Point being, don't let it slide if the saw is not running correctly.
Good luck with it Don, and please report back what the fix is so others who have the same problem will be able to find a possible solution. There's nothing like reading a whole thread to the end for the exact problem your having only to see the person never report as to what the fix was.
If you choose to run it you may be ordering a top end when it wasn't needed initially, and then you will still have to fix the air leak.
Point being, don't let it slide if the saw is not running correctly.
Good luck with it Don, and please report back what the fix is so others who have the same problem will be able to find a possible solution. There's nothing like reading a whole thread to the end for the exact problem your having only to see the person never report as to what the fix was.
PTO seal - 505416101
Flywheel seal - 505275719
Flywheel seal - 505275719
You should have it blocked off before the carb.
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yes the first time i did have it blocked before the carb and between the muffler and cylinder i wanted to see if the carb to intake flange was leaking nothing else was leaking just where that throttle is i put another carb on it last night ill try it today after the rain and report back
carb was not the problem still leans itself out when i turn it flywheel side up i stripped the saw 2 times and blocked the intake before the carb and exaust put 15psi in the spark plug and sprayed the saw down with soapy water no leaks anywhere put a carb kit in it adjusted the meter lever so it was even with carb body
