I did do that update the clamp and the pastic gromet tooThere is a plastic clamp on that model that causes problems with sealing.....Husky offers a metal clamp replacement that I've gotten on E-bay
There is a metal ring that inserts the boot at the opening between the carb and the boot.Just put a 346 topend on my 350. It had a small air leak and iv narrowed it down to where the carb mounts to the boot. If you spray just a little carb cleaner right on the carb where it meets it will shut the saw off. Any ideas?
I wondered about that. The one that was in mine is white and plastic. Its a 1998 if that makes a differenceThere is a metal ring that inserts the boot at the opening between the carb and the boot.
Yes it does have a base gasket. I also sealed the bearing cup with motoseal.Guys run those without the ring, plastic or metal. Did you use a base gasket?
Iv looked and looked at where it mounts iv taken it apart 3 or 4 times i cant see whats wrong. Yes i did i trimmed them out of the way of the cylinder.Did you grind down the ribs on the PTO side of the case?
No. Its also a new apart because the one that was on it was stripped so i replaced it .Did you strip the intake bolts?
First off i want to say thank you for your help its much apperciated. Second i did nothing from the crank seals or base gasket. I vaccumed it too its with spec but if i spray carb cleaner right on the carb near that boot it chokes the saw out. I also rebuilt the carb with an oem kit.Spray some soapy water around it, run it, and look for bubbles.
Low pressure air (5 PSI) and a bucket of water... look for bubbles...First off i want to say thank you for your help its much apperciated. Second i did nothing from the crank seals or base gasket. I vaccumed it too its with spec but if i spray carb cleaner right on the carb near that boot it chokes the saw out. I also rebuilt the carb with an oem kit.
Makes a mess of things, but it leaves no doubts as to where the problem is!Low pressure air (5 PSI) and a bucket of water... look for bubbles...
You could have had a leak before you started. There are some extra mating surfaces of different materials in that bottom end. A set of Nachi bearings, a couple AM seals(one of the few places I use them), and a little sealant of your choice is relatively cheap insurance.First off i want to say thank you for your help its much apperciated. Second i did nothing from the crank seals or base gasket. I vaccumed it too its with spec but if i spray carb cleaner right on the carb near that boot it chokes the saw out. I also rebuilt the carb with an oem kit.
I guessYou could have had a leak before you started. There are some extra mating surfaces of different materials in that bottom end. A set of Nachi bearings, a couple AM seals(one of the few places I use them), and a little sealant of your choice is relatively cheap insurance.
I guess i should have stated it was a complete overhaul. New bearings and seals. I sealed the new 346 bearing cup after having it checked for being warped. I used motoseal for that. The jug has a base gasket and i sealed it with a very fine coat of 518 just enough to make it tacky. I used a new carb boot and bought the updated kit from husqvarna for the clamp. The carb was rebuilt with an oem walbro kit also. I used oem fuel line and oem for the impluse line also.You could have had a leak before you started. There are some extra mating surfaces of different materials in that bottom end. A set of Nachi bearings, a couple AM seals(one of the few places I use them), and a little sealant of your choice is relatively cheap insurance.
IMO these saws, more than any, need to be checked for leaks in that bottom end. I suspect many of them out there are tuned slightly fat to cover up a small air leak.I guess
I guess i should have stated it was a complete overhaul. New bearings and seals. I sealed the new 346 bearing cup after having it checked for being warped. I used motoseal for that. The jug has a base gasket and i sealed it with a very fine coat of 518 just enough to make it tacky. I used a new carb boot and bought the updated kit from husqvarna for the clamp. The carb was rebuilt with an oem walbro kit also. I used oem fuel line and oem for the impluse line also.
I have seen alot of post about leaks but im at a loss here. Thats most of the reason i tore it all the way down was to make sure it was all sealed up. It wasnt burnt up either it was a running saw. Once again thank you for the help an advice. Iv rebuilt quite a few 2 strokes but none like this one.IMO these saws, more than any, need to be checked for leaks in that bottom end. I suspect many of them out there are tuned slightly fat to cover up a small air leak.
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