Husqvarna 350 rebuild options

[fearofpavement]

I found an old thread on this but it is so dated I thought I'd start a new one. My question is what are the options when doing a scored Husky 350? I don't have the saw in hand yet so haven't viewed the extent of the carnage. The owner thinks it got straight gassed by the guy he loaned it to.

He cuts some firewood and maintains a few wooded acres. He also has a Husky 455 so this won't be his only saw. I am not familiar with the model but from some previous threads it appears there are multiple ways to go with piston/cylinder kits.
Anyone?

 

[Scandy14]

You can install a Meteor piston for a 353. I did one, deleted the base gasket, and did a muffler mod and the saw really performs very well.

 

[fearofpavement]

Well, the knowledge of the saw is limited to word of mouth. I don't actually know the extent of the damage. On the 353 piston, is that a drop in fit or does it need to be modified? What would be the advantage of that piston vs the 350 piston?

 

[80sDweeb]

I'll be watching this thread, as I've just picked up a 350, plus 2 parts saws, a shop told the guy the cylinder is scored, no idea about the condition of the parts saws' cylinders. All for $60 was a bargain where I live, snapped it up. I see lots of China-fresh p/c kits on eBay.

Is there any way to modify the plastic-clamp manifold to be tighter, say with a hose clamp or wire? Or is the factory update kit the way to go? I'll admit it, I'm CHEAP!

Scott in Penfield NY (now infected with full-blown CAD!)

 

[80sDweeb]

OK, found a couple so far:

Project Stumpbroke Husky 345 sleeper
husqvarna 350/351 to 346xp conversion

Scott in Penfield NY

 

[moody]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/237587/

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

 

[tickbitintn]

I'll be watching this thread, as I've just picked up a 350, plus 2 parts saws, a shop told the guy the cylinder is scored, no idea about the condition of the parts saws' cylinders. All for $60 was a bargain where I live, snapped it up. I see lots of China-fresh p/c kits on eBay.

Is there any way to modify the plastic-clamp manifold to be tighter, say with a hose clamp or wire? Or is the factory update kit the way to go? I'll admit it, I'm CHEAP!

Scott in Penfield NY (now infected with full-blown CAD!)

Scott, good news, your CAD is not that bad!!!!

I see three complete saws there ready to rebuild / repair....


just picked one of these up myself, mine is 04 with cheap plastic clamp that is melted... ordered housing and metal clamp for 07 (listed as one part number under clamp)
mine had cheap ching chong crapper open port 44mm piston/cyl on it... luckily i also got the original cyl which cleaned up to like new.
Now to order a meteor piston (flat topped not dished like oem) and a quick rebuild and should be better than new.....


check out masreminds post of piston / cyl transfer removal without acid...

 

[80sDweeb]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/237587/

Thanks, GREAT thread for the Husky 350 and related saws!

Scott in Penfield NY

 

[80sDweeb]

I see three complete saws there ready to rebuild / repair....

I'd say after a good looking over I have about 2 and 3/4 saws, missing at least a top cover and clutch cover. Very pleased, though, nothing looks melted or cracked so far. I'll have to try my compression tester again (but I don't trust it yet, is there a thread on calibrating or testing a compression tester?)

check out masreminds post of piston / cyl transfer removal without acid...

Great thread, if I'm lucky the cylinder can be saved! SO MUCH great info here, and amazingly high ratio of good folks (vs. most forums I've been on - gun forums, motorcycle forums, etc.)

Scott in Penfield NY

 

[moody]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?threads/237587/

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

The link above will tell you anything you want to know about the 350.

 

[fuzz1500]

Ill be watching this thread close as well !

 

[80sDweeb]

On both of my parts saws, the front bar stud is missing. How much of an issue is this? Does it just push through to the oil tank? Are these commonly missing for some reason? Do you install it right through the oil tank fill hole?

The complete saw is open port, while the parts saws are closed port. Since I'd have to take the tank off anyway, maybe I'll be better off using the better of the two parts saws as my first completed saw. One of them seems to have very little use, judging by the pristine "chain catcher" plastic piece below the bar mount. I need to take all three saws down and clean all the parts, so I'll know what I have and which parts are best, 2nd best, etc.

Then I can proceed with building up the first saw from the best parts.

Scott in Penfield NY

 

[RedFir Down]

On both of my parts saws, the front bar stud is missing. How much of an issue is this? Does it just push through to the oil tank? Are these commonly missing for some reason? Do you install it right through the oil tank fill hole?

The complete saw is open port, while the parts saws are closed port. Since I'd have to take the tank off anyway, maybe I'll be better off using the better of the two parts saws as my first completed saw. One of them seems to have very little use, judging by the pristine "chain catcher" plastic piece below the bar mount. I need to take all three saws down and clean all the parts, so I'll know what I have and which parts are best, 2nd best, etc.

Then I can proceed with building up the first saw from the best parts.

Scott in Penfield NY

Yes the bar studs are just pushed through the oil tank.
I had a saw come through here with the guy stating the bar stud kept pushing back into the oil tank.
What I did was knurl the head end of the stud just a little bit so it was able to "grip" the bar stud hole better and stay put. That solved the issue.